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My 1st Hatt - 1984 52C

  • Thread starter Thread starter JuiceClark
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Is there an LED equivalent bulb that you could adapt to work?

They only requirements are an 8" diameter and a tight beam...and 12.8v. I'm sure something will pop-up with enough searches. Haven't found squat so far.

BTW I have never seen a set of those intercom phones which actually worked. If you can find any, it would be a first in my experience.

My young daughters want them to work in the worst way. I'll have to get out the manual and find where they get power. You'd think a mechanism that simple would be likely to last inside, but the bridge phone is long gone. If the system still works, I'll find another for the bridge.
 
The only place on Pau Hana that still has the handset is/was inside the flying bridge console. Only reason it's still there is I haven't had a chance to go remove it yet - Planning to do that when I replace 24V outlet with 110AC outlet up there. Interestingly enough, I tracked down the bulbs for my DC electrical panels and head indicators. After pumping the tank and washing out and pumping again, my tank 3/4 full lights came on and would not go off. Started reading the threads on here for that symptom, and will look into that in more depth tomorrow. In the meantime I also tracked down the indicator lights for my 230/110 panels. After all the joy I had finding these, I thought this might help someone.

Here are the links for the bulbs, from Amazon. Initially I only found them on another web site - That company charged my card then told me the bulbs were backordered for about a month and MAY ship by June. Fortunately they did not fight me on the refund.

AC Panel
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JZ8R..._dp_14VN9E18BANWHXV8HK5Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

DC panel bulbs
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JNFB..._dp_DAESRZ3V588843ZQK1Z2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


AC panel bulb is on top, DC panel/Head panel bulb is on bottom.
20210423_092430.webp
 
Also found this. In the '80s both Yamaha and Suzuki offered a 200mm (7.87") halogen unit. They only came on a few models and for a short time span. Yamaha models in question would be the '81 XJ650RH and XV920RH and '82 XJ650RJ and XV920RJ. The "R" in the model designations denotes the "euro" version with the big light.
 
Also found this. In the '80s both Yamaha and Suzuki offered a 200mm (7.87") halogen unit. They only came on a few models and for a short time span. Yamaha models in question would be the '81 XJ650RH and XV920RH and '82 XJ650RJ and XV920RJ. The "R" in the model designations denotes the "euro" version with the big light.

Hmmm...thanks, I'll look it up.

I've found a few 8" bulbs, but some were too dim and some not focused enough. A few of these aircraft landing bulbs are pretty close, but always a little off. This one is for 28v. I could run it to the 32v but the switch is meant for 12v and would get fried.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-4552-Aircraft-Landing-Bulb-NEW-8-28V-250W-Part-/122335240823
 
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Hmmm...thanks, I'll look it up.

I've found a few 8" bulbs, but some were too dim and some not focused enough. A few of these aircraft landing bulbs are pretty close, but always a little off. This one is for 28v. I could run it to the 32v but the switch is meant for 12v and would get fried.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-4552-Aircraft-Landing-Bulb-NEW-8-28V-250W-Part-/122335240823

A simple switch is not gonna be affected by voltage. Amperage is what would fry it and running a higher voltage would be less amps.
 
A simple switch is not gonna be affected by voltage. Amperage is what would fry it and running a higher voltage would be less amps.

Hmmm, good to know. The Ray-Line switch has some kind of resistor-looking-thing running between the slow/fast settings. I was worried that thing might get cooked by 32v....but if not, that would be great.

We'll find something that works. I was hoping some of you Hatt veterans would step-in on the subject, because this DC stuff always leaves me flummoxed.



For anyone in the Tampa area, this might be a bargain. It's hand controlled though, no remote:
https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/for/d/clearwater-boat-searchlight/7301028237.html
 
Hmmm, good to know. The Ray-Line switch has some kind of resistor-looking-thing running between the slow/fast settings. I was worried that thing might get cooked by 32v....but if not, that would be great.

We'll find something that works. I was hoping some of you Hatt veterans would step-in on the subject, because this DC stuff always leaves me flummoxed.



For anyone in the Tampa area, this might be a bargain. It's hand controlled though, no remote:
https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/for/d/clearwater-boat-searchlight/7301028237.html

If the switch is for more than just running power to the bulb, then you probably can't do that. All of the RayLine motors are 12v and they just put in resisters to drop the voltage for 24v or 32v inputs. The bulb ran on whatever the input voltage was but everything else was 12v..
 
If the switch is for more than just running power to the bulb, then you probably can't do that. All of the RayLine motors are 12v and they just put in resisters to drop the voltage for 24v or 32v inputs. The bulb ran on whatever the input voltage was but everything else was 12v..

It took me a minute to think that through. The 2 little motors wouldn't like the voltage change.


It's just so odd. There are still this same light for sale everywhere. How can there be no replacement bulbs for them??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283131423562?_trkparms=aid%3D555023%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210414112340%26meid%3Db7f0b000bee042dc804fad7cd0944ff0%26pid%3D101112%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D23%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D372411273539%26itm%3D283131423562%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5hPointwiseWebNoToraCoCoViewsNoHighIdfOrRoundRobinBlenderWithPromotedViewItems%26brand%3DJabsco&_trksid=p2563228.c101112.m1982

A
ND, the 7" sealed bulbs for 500k candle power are all over the place. Why no 8"??
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/jabs...led-beam-12-volt-dc-100-50-000-cp--P000436782

I might just say the hell with it and make some type of flange to make it hold a 7" bulb. It's just so strange.
 
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I also have a 1984 52c. Was wondering if you have a fish box in the large aft cockpit hatch? I don't have one and was thinking of making one. I would think it would have been standard and not an option.

Thanks,
Paul
 
Hi Paul,Yep, there's a big box down there. I can barely get it out by myself when working on the steering or trim tabs.You can make a quick foam mold from mine if you're near Sanibel. I bet a lot of them got broken getting tossed onto the dock full of meat.
 
Hi Paul,Yep, there's a big box down there. I can barely get it out by myself when working on the steering or trim tabs.You can make a quick foam mold from mine if you're near Sanibel. I bet a lot of them got broken getting tossed onto the dock full of meat.

Thanks for the offer but I'm up in Morehead NC. Maybe this will be a winter project. I'm thinking of finding the biggest cooler that will fit in the hole and putting some hooks along the edges to hang it just above the steering arm.
 
Thanks for the offer but I'm up in Morehead NC. Maybe this will be a winter project. I'm thinking of finding the biggest cooler that will fit in the hole and putting some hooks along the edges to hang it just above the steering arm.

Coolers have gotten so expensive. You could just build a jig and make an awesome box of carbon fiber or fiberglass for way less $$. The only trick is getting the lip just right so it sits right around the flange.
 
Well, I wasn't going to pay a grand for a custom mattress - not with all the other stuff on my list. So, I bought a 10" cool gel mattress from WalMart. I'll open the fabric and cut the foam to size - then sew it back up.

MasterStern.webp

Just bought a smart TV to cover the hole from the 1980's TV. It'll work off the house or marina wifi.
Master Port.webp
 
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Oh - and I asked other convertible owners to tell me what a certain switch did in the salon. It turned out mine was for the long-gone indirect lighting behind the valances. The wire is still hot with 110v.

So, I'll find some 110v led light strip online for cheap and run it around behind the valances.
I just found an antique mahogany cabinet door which will fit that big opening under the lamp.
SalonBow.webp
 
BTW, I started on the bow pulpit's rotten wood (decorative on top, not coring) this morning. It's screwed from underneath and slathered with 5200! It tears up one tiny splinter at a time. What a giant PITA.

I should hire someone to do this one - and forget it.

Getting the 8" Ray-Line to work is going similarly. I found an 8" bulb. Well, now the solenoid isn't sending it power. The motors turn but no light. Blah blah blah - should probably buy a new one and use this for parts.
 
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I'll open the fabric and cut the foam to size - then sew it back up.

On the off chance you don't know an electric kitchen knife is THE weapon of choice for that. Nice long blades, smooth fast cuts.
 

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