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My 1st Hatt - 1984 52C

  • Thread starter Thread starter JuiceClark
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What do you do when there are gaping holes to fill? (careful)
There was a giant stereo system in this one. I can still hear Frampton Comes Alive oozing from the components.
I already have a big ice maker and full reefer. The edge moldings don't even match and it's hideous. I really don't need a drink fridge...might have to get one just to fill the hole.

View attachment 49221

Then there's that other cabinet which held an ancient tv with built-in VCR. I've got so much other shit to do. Wouldn't it be great to find a cabinet door that size?

View attachment 49222 Sorry I don't know how to flip the pics.

Might be best to just put a cabinet door and shelves on it. You can never have enough storage, maybe it becomes a small food pantry?
 
Wine chiller?

Maybe, but I'm allergic to sulfites. If I find one on sale for a great price, I'll pop one in there.

Might be best to just put a cabinet door and shelves on it. You can never have enough storage, maybe it becomes a small food pantry?

That's what will happen, I guess. I have some veneer left from covering the galley booth table, too. (can see it behind the first pic of the gaping hole) The hard part is finding the little molding that goes around each cabinet door.

I hate to wait....but this will have to wait until I'm done hunting for fire hazards.
 
Got to chime in with you on the fire hazards. I am replacing worn-out GFI outlets the next few days, now that I have replaced the LED flowerpetal lights reverting back to halogen incandescents. Had one of the "12V/24V LED" pieces explode in the fixture but we got it out before it was more than smoke. These were installed by PO so I guess we're lucky they lasted this long. Going to have to figure out some new lighting for the galley, staterooms and midships passageway so I can go LED but PO put in stretched vinyl headliner with stapled holes cut into crossmembers for existing lights. I pulled a dead fridge out of flying bridge and will probably put a drink fridge back up there. Someone removed the wet bar and sink in the salon and put a granite slab countertop in it's place. Water lines are capped inside the cabinet underneath. Every day is a new adventure in "what now?". One of my marina neighbors has what she refers to as "electrician savant", says he is an old boat wiring wizard. Going to have him look at our anchor windlass wiring issue.
 
Most Hatts from the late 70's on had GFI breakers so no GFI outlets were needed. Most surveyors don't notice that and then recommend that GFI outlets are added when they are not necessary. So you see some of these boats with GFI outlets that someone installed not knowing they were already protected.
 
Most Hatts from the late 70's on had GFI breakers so no GFI outlets were needed. Most surveyors don't notice that and then recommend that GFI outlets are added when they are not necessary. So you see some of these boats with GFI outlets that someone installed not knowing they were already protected.


Yes. The only pro I've hired so far is an A/C guy with 4 decades in the biz. I noticed the first thing he did on the boat was open the panel and trip the GFI breakers to make sure they're working. It's great to have a consummate pro come work on the boat - but day-um is it expensive.

So, the only outlets I'm changing on the entire boat are to have a couple of those with the USB charger built-in.
 
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Really less cost in the long run.
 
Really less cost in the long run.

Totally worth it if you can find a real one with verifiable years in the area. There are too many fakes around who say they were a pro "for many years up North."
 
I was converting the nav lights over to 12v at the switch yesterday and tested the switch for the Ray-Line while at it. It's getting voltage but the switch is toast. That little resistor connecting the slow and fast power is rusted away.

A new switch is $250. It just so happens there's a used one on Ebay I just bought for 25 bucks! What are the odds it works? I'd guess about 8%...felt lucky.

View attachment 49194


The old Ebay switch works! You can hear the Ray-Line light's motor running up there, but it only moves once about every 10 times you try. So, I'll bring the light down from the tower and go through it. I'm sure the connections are all corroded as hell. It'll be interesting to see what kind of gears are in there....hope I don't need parts.

The bulb doesn't turn-on either. I hope it's just not getting enough juice - the filament looks intact.

I'm really excited about the Ray-Line. They just look right on a vintage Hatt.
 
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If you hear the motor, then the clutches just need adjusting.
 
MikeP owned a 53' Hatteras MY for years. Also a close friend of mine. He could fix damn near anything. I remember him doing this; glad he posted it.
 
Took the Ray-Line down this morning. The bulb is burnt out. The innards aren't too bad. Really kind of simple. There's a little housing on which the gears and motors are mounted. It's just about corroded away where it attaches to the base. When that breaks, it's all over for this old light. I clean and oil it, except the "clutches," and hope it works.
I'll talk to Ray-Line Jabsco and see what they have to offer.


In the meantime, how about another stupid question?!

I've finished going through the boat. Everything works now - except some mistakes to be replaced/removed (like the instant water heater from WalMart) and the intercom. Every mystery wire has been traced and every switch accounted for, except TWO.

1.) How do I get the ancient intercom phones to power-up? Nothing doing at all.

2.) You 52C owners - what does the bottom left switch shown here do on your boat?? Right next to the spreader lights switch. What could it be? It's my last mystery:

part0(6).webp

part0(7).webp

part0(8).webp
 
My searchlight is so far down the to-do list it's not even on the horizon. Starter solenoid turned out to be available online, and should be here this coming week. Free shipping and no-hassle returns on incorrect/defective parts. Only thing I can tell you about my searchlight, which is not a Ray-Line, is that it doesn't even power on. Where it's located on the eyebrow over the lower helm windscreen, is going to be challenging.
 
My searchlight is so far down the to-do list it's not even on the horizon. Starter solenoid turned out to be available online, and should be here this coming week. Free shipping and no-hassle returns on incorrect/defective parts. Only thing I can tell you about my searchlight, which is not a Ray-Line, is that it doesn't even power on. Where it's located on the eyebrow over the lower helm windscreen, is going to be challenging.

Well, the searchlight was simple. Once I saw 12v at the switch and nothing at the light, I ordered a new switch.

Now, I can't figure out where to get an 8" bulb! The searchlight was pretty high on my list, actually. The gubmint does a terrible job keeping reflectors on some of their marker pilings. I've come way to close to hitting them at dusk over the years.

You'll get there bro! You've got nothing but time.
 
Don't bother called the Ray Line people (LB Harvey). They will not sell parts or give you any info. All they want to do is "refurbish" your old light for $$$$$$$. Years ago, they would sell parts. Then they decided to keep all of the parts for their rebuilds because they could increase the profit margin that way.
 
The switch next to the spreader lights on my 55C is for the cockpit lights
 
Don't bother called the Ray Line people (LB Harvey). They will not sell parts or give you any info. All they want to do is "refurbish" your old light for $$$$$$$. Years ago, they would sell parts. Then they decided to keep all of the parts for their rebuilds because they could increase the profit margin that way.

Yeah, I read that in an old thread.(this site has been incredibly useful) How inconvenient. If I couldn't restore that primitive thing myself, I wouldn't have bought an '84 Hatteras that needed rescue.

I might buy an old light for parts and get the housing rechromed, with all the chrome stuff on my fighting chair, just to spite Ray-Line.
But I still need to find an 8" bulb.

The switch next to the spreader lights on my 55C is for the cockpit lights

Thanks! I had a feeling they were for the long-gone indirect lights under the cockpit gunwale - because that's all there is left. It's hard to follow wires in that corner because the panels are in the way.
 
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Is there an LED equivalent bulb that you could adapt to work?
 
BTW I have never seen a set of those intercom phones which actually worked. If you can find any, it would be a first in my experience.
 

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