Teak And Holly Sole

[egaito]

I put Plasteak on our head floor and in our galley. Neither of these are large areas, but they look great and hold up perfectly. Some of our members have seen this in our boat and they all had favorable comments,(maybe they were just being kind). I did have some pictures on an older post and they still might be there but I am not sure. I do give Plasteak a big thumbs up.

We saw Maynard's boat at CDR last year, it does look great. We decided that it isn't a replacement for real wood to us, but have installed it in all of Sanctuary's heads, and the crew quarters. Looks great, and seems to be very durable.

 

[Trojan]

What kind of wood or materials are going into the new boats? Some of the cockpit material I have seen at the shows is looking pretty nice.

BILL

 

[Brian Degulis]

For you guys that would consider a real planked floor (man that's a lot of work) and are looking for a lower cost alternative to teak take a look at Epe. It's much harder than teak with a tighter grain some of it's to dark but if you can go thru a pile you can find lighter boards. It sells for about $2 a board foot. On the downside it's very hard and dificult to machine it's also very heavy so heavy it sinks but it's a whole lot cheaper and readily available. I've built lots of stuff with it and it's real hard to tell the differance between it and the $15 a board foot teak for anyone that's interested I can shoot you some pics. I'm not sure but think that most of the teak and holly plywood is actually now teak and maple. So there you go Epe and maple a working mans teak cabin sole.

Brian

 

[thoward]

Sorry if I offended anyone I just like real wood on a personal level. I guess that is why I had a wood boat.

Most teak is farm raised from what I am told. We found teak at $14-$22/board foot(4/4). So, if you used 2/4 you would get 2' of about 1/2 inch thick.

 

[Starman]

I have seen the EPE used alot on the boct docks. When oiled it looks like a dark mahogany. I would never use it on a boat. Hard and brittle. Funny thing about EPE is that when you get a splinter in your hand, there is an immediate infection, even though slight.......turns red real fast !

I had some scrap pieces and after playing with it for awhile, gave away 70 strips of 1X3/4X4-6' lengths.

If some one asked me to mill/plane some EPE, I would immediately add about 300.00 to the price for at least 3 new sets of knives for my spiral head powermatic planer.

Every hole must be predrilled even when using the stainless nails/screws on the boat docks.

So for me personally, I can see no use for EPE in my work.

 

[Brian Degulis]

Well like I said if your interested I can shoot you some PICs and you can make your own decision about the look. As for working with it no doubt it definetly takes good carbide tools but it's not that big of a deal my Powermatic planer has run hundreds of feet of it on the same set of blades. They build entire boats out of this stuff in Brazil.

 

[chris]

I am doing all the floors in my 48MY right now with wood. I looked at about every product and decided to go with wood. To me it just looks better. I decied to use cherry instead of teak. It is a little lighter in color and easier to work with. On the bridge and aft deck I am useing 3/8 thick x 1 7/8 wide with a 3/16 black caulk groove.
On the interior I am useing 3/8 thick x 1 7/8 wide cherry with a 3/16 maple strip . "Cherry and Maple TG". All hatches and walls are boardered. I am going to clear coat all the floor with Epifanes 2 part polyurethane.
I purchased all the wood from East Teak. I dealt with a guy named George. He is very knowledgable.
I purchase about 500 sq ft of wood at a cost of about 10K. Not cheap.
I will post some pictures soon.
So far I am very happy with the job. I looked at gettin the pre made panels at first but didn't like the idea of makeing templates and haveing a mistake on a large pre made panel. For me it was better to stick build the floor. That is what I know how to do.
Chris

 

[Fishmon]

I received my samples this afternoon and I am impressed with the Lonseal T/H. For under $2k I can do the whole interior of our 41c. It WILL be beautiful.

The Plasteak isn't as impressive, but I still may go with it because of price and durability. I will still be looking for alternatives as the cockpit is lower on the to-do list, probably next winter.

All for now,
Jeff

 

[Starman]

I would be interested in seeing the process during the installation.

How thick is this material ?

How many square feet of floor space did you figure on in your 41 ?

 

[egaito]

I received my samples this afternoon and I am impressed with the Lonseal T/H. For under $2k I can do the whole interior of our 41c. It WILL be beautiful.

The Plasteak isn't as impressive, but I still may go with it because of price and durability. I will still be looking for alternatives as the cockpit is lower on the to-do list, probably next winter.

All for now,
Jeff

I loved the look of Amtico, but am always open to new ideas. What did you like better about the Lonseal? Also, what colors/grain did you choose? I didn't see anything on their web site that seemed to have the right "look".

 

[Fishmon]

Paul - The Lonseal is $7.50 a foot/2. It comes in a roll 6 foot wide. The salon at it's longest is 10 foot x 10 1/2 wide and the same for the galley x 3 1/2. I will buy 33 foot and run one piece up the center of the salon with a 2+ foot run on either side with factory edges butting on both sides. I am hoping that there will be enough left from the galley and salon to do the cabins and head. I am in Michigan now and will be back in Fla next week so I am not sure untill I can get my exact dimensions.

Anyway, 33 x 6 x $7.50 = $1485. plus glue and whatever. By the way I took a screwdriver to the sample and it's tough. You could feel where it is roughed up but can't hardly see it.

Ed - It's not too late to check on the Amtico IF I could find someone to sell it, specs, price and a sample. Like I said earlier their website is terrible. I'm a pro surfer and couldn't $#&@!!! No luck with Google either.

I have also been looking for something called "Mica Top, Teak and Holly Board". Hunter sailboats use it and am told it looks great. Seems to be another Top-Secret material.

Later,
Jeff

 

[johngalt]

I received my samples this afternoon and I am impressed with the Lonseal T/H. For under $2k I can do the whole interior of our 41c. It WILL be beautiful.

The Plasteak isn't as impressive, but I still may go with it because of price and durability. I will still be looking for alternatives as the cockpit is lower on the to-do list, probably next winter.

All for now,
Jeff

INDENT]Jeff,[/INDENT]I also have a 41c and have been researching the teak/holly floors. I have to agree with all who said that the Amtico site really stinks. In talking with one of my flooring contractors he has recommended a product called Kahrs linnea line of floating floors. While not specifically intended for boats he regularly installs it in basement areas where there is a high degree of humidity and has had no problems whatso ever.

​

He even had a bad leak in his own basement and the floor got soaked but did not buckle or move at all.It is a teak verneer product that comes in 4' lengths and various widths prefinished and with a 15 year warranty.I found it available at Ifloors for $4.oo a square foot delivered.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I found this very informative-- lots of details to be found if you take your time to read thoroughly. ws
http://www.ifloor.com/redirect.pl?k=kahrs%20linnea&a=google&s_kwcid=kahrs%20linnea|656257026&gclid=CIWbiYm90YoCFSWnIwod5GOnbw

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I copied and pasted the address, but it was Looonngg one ! C&Ping the first part should get you there. ws

 

[jim rosenthal]

I looked today at Flexiteek. It is not wood, but their dull finish teak-and-holly and teak-and-black-sealant are very nice indeed. If you send them patterns, they send you back panels ready to install. This is ideal for someone like me who doesn't have a lot of carpentry skills etc etc.

I like wood, too, but don't want to do the maintenance. I am very likely to put a Flexiteek deck on Blue Note, on the aft deck, this spring, if it's possible. And I might use their teak/holly imitation stuff in the head. Ease of installation count for something around here, frankly. And I've had this boat long enough that I am not thinking about the next owner, although I agree that's a good policy.

 

[Starman]

Jeff,

Finally went and looked at that site. I now see what you are talking about. It is basically like linoleum, just a different version. Still would like to see how it turns out.

Thanx for the info.

To install teak and holly would cost about the same price, for 1/2 ply. solid teak strips and holly ( mainly maple ) is very pricey due to the cost of teak and specialty milling machines.

The "Mica" you are speaking of I think is actually the Formicas brand. You can see some of their products on the Formicas site. just type in "Formica" under Google.

The problem with some of their products is they install these veneers on products like particle board, which is terrible: probably one of the worst products to put on a boat .

 

[hcalmar]

I would like to upgrade the 37C with a teak and holly sole as well, first in the head then the salon and maybe the cockpit. My biggest question/concern if one uses the vinyl(sp?) or veneer is how you deal with the hatches ect. Specifically the edges so it looks good. Won't you see the plywood or vinyl edge if you do nothing more than cut out the hatch?
Hal

 

[Dodger]

I'm looking at a similar exterior application and did some price shopping at the Miami boat show.

Plasteak was about $25/sq' , Flexiteak is $31, Marquip has a cork-polymer flooring for $38 and teak teak is between $38 and $125/sq' depending on the installer. I'm leaning towards Flexiteak due to cost, ease of maintenance and look/texture.

 

[Starman]

I would like to upgrade the 37C with a teak and holly sole as well, first in the head then the salon and maybe the cockpit. My biggest question/concern if one uses the vinyl(sp?) or veneer is how you deal with the hatches ect. Specifically the edges so it looks good. Won't you see the plywood or vinyl edge if you do nothing more than cut out the hatch?
Hal

Go Back to page 4, I have a pic of a floor I did on a bertram. Notice the solid edge of teak around the hatch itself and also around the flooring cut out.

This is the way it should be done.....and can not be done with some of the other products. IMO

 

[jim rosenthal]

I have wanted a teak covering on the aft deck of my boat for years. Having owned two boats with genuine teak decks (structural teak decks that were OEM, on an Egg and a Matthews), I know a little about the maintenance. Modern adhesives make this better- you don't have to drill into the FRP deck to do the teak overlay, so there are no screw holes to leak. But I like the idea of something that can be glued down, and then just washed to keep it clean. It doesn't look exactly like the real thing, especially inside where it isn't glossy, but it performs like the real thing, and it requires less maintenance. I do enough maintaining as it is.

I would use the T&H veneer plywood indoors if I wanted a glossy finish, I agree on that. I may just go with their dull-finish T&H stuff and see how I like it. If/when I do all this, I will post photos as well.