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synthetic oil

The issue with sulfated ash is potential buildup of deposits on the exhaust valves. A rather expensive thing to find out about if it happens to you and they don't seal properly....
 
I thought oil and water don't mix.

So oil goes bad just sitting there for the dock queens? Does it go bad sitting on the shelf in the jug too?

I'm with Krush! When did oil start mixing with oil? I have seen many engines with water in there oil and it's always showed up.
Also when pumping oil from oil wells they use pumped pressured water to help extract the oil from the well.
When was the last time you purchased a CAN of oil or a bad container of oil. Something ain't quite correct.
I suppose then that is why wheel bearings go bad because of water. No more car washes got to save those bearings.
And how about all the condensation inside that engine when the weather changes? Something is WRONG... I don't buy it.
I have changed many engines with coolant filled oil pans. Refilled them with fresh oil after repair and never had a engine go sour.

What gives? I think there is some zooming info about this water in the oil crap. Water in the engine is almost an every day thing when you live in a cold climate. When the engine heats the water dissipates it cannot be absorbed into the oil. Only break fluid absorbed water. Oil doesn't spoil on the shelf. Everyone run out and check the expatriation date on you oil containers.
It must be something like whiskey spoiling if it sets to long on the shelf:D. Then again I'm not a chemist. Nor do I let my whiskey set very long on the shelf.:D

BILL
 
I'm with Krush! When did oil start mixing with oil? I have seen many engines with water in there oil and it's always showed up.
Also when pumping oil from oil wells they use pumped pressured water to help extract the oil from the well.
When was the last time you purchased a CAN of oil or a bad container of oil. Something ain't quite correct.
I suppose then that is why wheel bearings go bad because of water. No more car washes got to save those bearings.
And how about all the condensation inside that engine when the weather changes? Something is WRONG... I don't buy it.
I have changed many engines with coolant filled oil pans. Refilled them with fresh oil after repair and never had a engine go sour.

What gives? I think there is some zooming info about this water in the oil crap. Water in the engine is almost an every day thing when you live in a cold climate. When the engine heats the water dissipates it cannot be absorbed into the oil. Only break fluid absorbed water. Oil doesn't spoil on the shelf. Everyone run out and check the expatriation date on you oil containers.
It must be something like whiskey spoiling if it sets to long on the shelf:D. Then again I'm not a chemist. Nor do I let my whiskey set very long on the shelf.:D

BILL

So just two weeks ago a friend who had Synthetic in his generator for over a year would not stay running. Check the dip stick and it was milky so no generator for the rest of his trip 3 days worth and he was pissed!
Came home changed it ran it 1/2 hr changed it again and now has run it almost 20 hrs and its fine.
It did not have many hrs on it this year prior too this, so he said its all because he was Lazy and cheap last fall!
He said he will never do that again!

So yeah you can just do recommended change or extend it and mess up a day or more of boating :)

Oh yeah please stop comparing oil in a jug to oil in a motor that is being used!!!!!! Talk about two different things :p
 
Oil/water will mix into a froth in the crankcase. Anytime you have a blown headgasket allowing coolant to mix with the oil the resulting yellow-brown mixture will show on the dipstick. It may separate given enough time but it won't separate as you expect oil/water to separate if you just pour one into the other and shake it up . I have seen a Ford motor with a cracked int manifold that allowed coolant into the oil. We drained the "oil," putting about a quart of it in a jar. A week later the mixture was still "unseparated."
 
Oil/water will mix into a froth in the crankcase. Anytime you have a blown headgasket allowing coolant to mix with the oil the resulting yellow-brown mixture will show on the dipstick. It may separate given enough time but it won't separate as you expect oil/water to separate if you just pour one into the other and shake it up . I have seen a Ford motor with a cracked int manifold that allowed coolant into the oil. We drained the "oil," putting about a quart of it in a jar. A week later the mixture was still "unseparated."

Well oil and water sitting in a jar won't mix you can wait a year and still not!
Run it in a motor for 20 hrs and it will ;)
He has since run it longer then he did with the old oil that was milky and its fine so Where did the water come from Hmmmmmm :confused:
 
Dan
I can't tell you where the water in the gen. came from but I can tell you it didn't come from the
synthetic oil. I own 30+ pieces of heavy equipment and I use synthetic oil in about half of the
units some run daily and some run once a month and none have made any water. If you have water
in the oil you have a problem that is not oil related.
Good Luck Finding the problem
 
Dan
I can't tell you where the water in the gen. came from but I can tell you it didn't come from the
synthetic oil. I own 30+ pieces of heavy equipment and I use synthetic oil in about half of the
units some run daily and some run once a month and none have made any water. If you have water
in the oil you have a problem that is not oil related.
Good Luck Finding the problem

I am not implying it due to Synthetic since I been using it in most of all my stuff for dam near 20 years Big Amsoil man. Its due to engine NOT being used enough and moisture building up in them.
Motors that are not run enough which is the case with most recreational boaters!

So it comes down to if your changing every year is it worth the extra money?
It been covered on Boat diesel with some people who know a Lot more the most of the Expurts here and they agree its just not worth it but do what you think is right and just do it ;)
 
The only benefit you will have in changing your oil yearly is the fact that you have new oil and maybe water free oil. If you live in a northern clement. It is very easy to have condensation in your engine in the spring. If you have chocolate milk in your engine crank case you have a major issue and changing your oil will not usually correct the problem. It is very unusual to have water in your engine from setting all winter. Oil will NOT mix with water. It will froth up and keep the oil in suspension for a long time, but it won't mix. When your engine heats the oil water will evaporate providing there is not any additional water being put into the crank case as in a gasket leaks. There is no defferance between oil in a containner setting on the shelf than oil sitting in your crank case except it is exposed to air and cylinder combustion grud. I have frends that never change the oil in there cars they just change the filters and add a fresh quart of oil. Oil never looses its lubrating quualites it just gets dirty. Oil change stores will love it. I just noticed that my fathers 4,000 mile oil change came due. He had it changed and the little sticker in the window for the next change is now 3,000. miles. I don't think that's going to happen. My oil is now going on 3 years old only because I have not accumunulated 120 hours. Then I will change it.
I'm not going to pour money down the drain. I never changed the oil in any of my farm equipment in less than 120 hours. I have never lost an engine in any of them and some set for 6,7 months at a time. But then you can always do as you like, or the guy selling the oil.:D.


BILL
 
Dino? I thought the Airforce pretty well debunked the fact that Fred and Wilma could not have had enough Dino's to produce a significant amount of crude.
 
The issue with sulfated ash is potential buildup of deposits on the exhaust valves. A rather expensive thing to find out about if it happens to you and they don't seal properly....

Is there proven cases of a couple 0.1% extra of sulfated ash doing this? Documented with reports and pictures. Why are exhaust valves on 2strokes so different than those on 4 strokes? Do 2 strokes consume more oil?

EDIT: also, if buildup on valves is a problem...sounds like a great chance to use water injection to keep it clean!
 
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I wanted to mention that once upon a time, I owned a company that had a fleet of tractor/trailer trucks as well as six wheel bobtails. I had an independent representative call on me and asked me to try his company's motor oil. I agreed and switched the entire fleet over to SWEPCO, 305 motor oil.

The dealer would come to my facility, once the oil had been in the trucks for a while and would take a sample from each engine, mark the truck number and send the samples back to Texas for a lab analysis. In about 10 days he would come to our company and present us with a detailed report on each truck. This was fantastic as I saved a pile of money on oil and filter changes, since the oli change times were greatly increased!

I also changed to this oil in my Porsche Turbo Coupe which was air cooled. It dropped the oil temperature by 15 degrees! I was sold!

This may be a good choice for all of you boat fellows!
 
20,000 miles about?

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