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Paint - Paint - Paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter JPBuffalo
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Let's see if I have this right... You're getting a good gloss finish with a roller only - no tipping? Sounds almost too good to be true. I rolled and tipped my old Grandbanks with Brightsides and it nearly killed me trying to keep a wet edge. Eliminating a step would be a God send.bob
If I’m lying I’m dying. NO TIPPING. What’s even crazier is what happened that day. It started foggy, so humidity was 85%. It was upper 60’s and overcast. There was no breeze, so the nosee’ems were out. Guess what, you can see ‘em when they land on the fresh paint. Finally, it started sprinkling rain a little over two hours after I finished rolling. I thought I was f@#$?*. I love that paint. It had already set. No blooming or blushing—just gloss. Kinda flicked the bugs off with my finger nail next day. Wow. The picture is second coat. It rained buckets in the morning. I dried the surface hit it lightly with 320 grit and wiped it down with thinner. Again, the humidity was above 75% and mostly overcast and cool. But after the first coat results, what the hell. I’ll repeat the 320 and apply #3 hopefully later this week. I can wet sand after 24 hours. Interlux advises a week to cure before buffing. Given all the rules I’ve broken, I think I’ll give it that week.
 
Dont tip much down here either, just the foam roller. We use the awl grip brushing thinner at about 10% in 2 part Amercoat paint. My land lord just got done repainting an aluminum hull boat. They got even better results by having one person roll in one direction and another right behind them rolling the other. I have heard that a little acetone will dissolve the gnats the next day after the paint sets some.
 
Dont tip much down here either, just the foam roller. We use the awl grip brushing thinner at about 10% in 2 part Amercoat paint. My land lord just got done repainting an aluminum hull boat. They got even better results by having one person roll in one direction and another right behind them rolling the other. I have heard that a little acetone will dissolve the gnats the next day after the paint sets some.
I think you have to firmly roll in different directions to get full coverage with a lightly loaded roller. Key is your final pass has to be feather light to help pull the bubbles out.
 
I got great results on both my sailboat and a friends sailboat with a two part paint with the rolling and rolling method. Of course it takes two people but it goes really quickly as the second roller is just lightly following with a dry roller.
 
OK, here's the deal. Thinner is Interlux 2333N. One quart goes along way unless you clean brushes. Just ordered a bunch of the Redtree foam rollers (#36065) from SMSdistributors.com for $3.89 (pair) plus $10 shipping. Or you can grab them at West for $10.49---Geeeez!

I HIGHLY suggest you Google and download Russel Brown's Rolling Perfection. It's $15 and well worth it unless you're into OJT.

I also highly recommend you use a respirator. I use half mask with organic vapor cartridges. I can tell you the vapors are strong and they stick around for about 90 minutes after application. Somebody somewhere posted permanent blindness is result of getting catalyst in an eye. Exam gloves are essential.

He's also right on about using a paint pallet as opposed to a roller tray. I've made two or three, and they are way better for even roller loading. Just something like 3/8" plywood with a 1" lip. Makes a big difference.

Lastly, don't follow the label and mix it all up in one batch. You can cap and refrigerate what you did mix and extend the pot life overnight successfully. When ready to use later, add a touch of thinner. Seal the unmixed paint cans tight and bag them and they'll last.

FYI, I did a new engine room deck section a while back and used Perfection with their non-skid polymer globules. Very even and very easy on the knees in use. I've made a hundred trips back and forth stacking tools on that deck and it's still perfect--cleans up easily also. Based on that test, I'm doing Aslan's decks using the stuff if I can get to it before it gets too hot.

IMG_9583.webp
 
Robert,

Are you using a primer such as Awlgrip 545?

I am just completing a big core repair in my cockpit and am at the fairing stage using West 407. I wanted to use the 545 primer to get a really smooth surface before painting. Your thoughts please.

I am going to follow your lead with Interlux Perfection.

Thanks!

Jon
 
Robert,Are you using a primer such as Awlgrip 545?I am just completing a big core repair in my cockpit and am at the fairing stage using West 407. I wanted to use the 545 primer to get a really smooth surface before painting. Your thoughts please.I am going to follow your lead with Interlux Perfection.Thanks!Jon
Jon, honestly get the publication I referenced. In my application, I’m not priming as Interlux says it’s not necessary on another similar coating, provided it sufficiently scuffed. My paint was holding tight, so I just repaired as needed and painted after 320 grit.
 
Great thread.
 
I'm a big fan of the ease of using interlux Perfection. I rolled and tipped my 1969 Formula and it came out great. I sanded back to bare fiberglass (or close to it) 1 coat of primer, 2 coats of Interlux Perfection. Time will tell if it holds up as long as Awlgrip. After 3 years it still looks good but I'm starting to see the blue look not quite a vivid as it did.1969 Formula.webp
 
Robert your work looks great, I have used both Perfection and Awlgrip, the last post with the blue boat summed up my experience also, the gloss from the perfection will not last anywhere near as long as the Awlgrip. However the Perfection is easier to get a good looking job for about 1/4 the price, just will not last as long. Everything is a trade off. If you are rolling and tipping with 2 people I suggest getting a third person with really good eyes to follow along to look closely and point out any missed or dry spots as you go, because going back after the fact to fix misses is almost impossible, especially with Awlgrip. John
 
Robert your work looks great, I have used both Perfection and Awlgrip, the last post with the blue boat summed up my experience also, the gloss from the perfection will not last anywhere near as long as the Awlgrip. However the Perfection is easier to get a good looking job for about 1/4 the price, just will not last as long. Everything is a trade off. If you are rolling and tipping with 2 people I suggest getting a third person with really good eyes to follow along to look closely and point out any missed or dry spots as you go, because going back after the fact to fix misses is almost impossible, especially with Awlgrip. John
Thanks, John. You could be right about the longevity. Of course darker colors are the first to oxidize with any paint I'm aware. In my case, there are a few major factors that governed my choices.

First, my old finish is not as shiny as I like. I'd say it's buffed out and getting thin is a few spots. Make no mistake, Aslan looks way better than 95% of the boats in its age range, but seeing the original color start to peek through isn't good. The second is the constant problem of getting that second or third person to be on station during the relatively short windows of opportunity. Even just getting someone to hold the tray for you when you need it is problematic. God forbid help tipping. I can do this job on my own.

Perfection is pretty easy stuff to get up to speed on. With the right mix, I've been able to apply it without runs or sags. My biggest issue is that second set of eyes you mentioned. Sometimes on large sections you find where you went a bit light and often after it's too late to hit it again. But I've found that the Perfection is forgiving with limited re-rolling. It is not forgiving with a brush.

We'll see about longevity. At least Perfection can be buffed and buffed.
 
Awlgrip do make a paint which can be buffed- Awlcraft, which is a similar type to Imron. The catch is that they do not make a brushing converter for it. However, I have heard it can be brushed or rolled. If anyone has any information on that, I would like to know about it.

You CAN buff Awlgrip and it will shine up. The problem is that it doesn't last very long at all. Evidently, when Awlgrip cures, whatever makes the gloss migrates to the top, or the cure is different on the surface, or something. The gloss is not all the way through.
 

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