I Found my 1 st Hatteras, Maybe

[Red Hatt]

I looked at several 38 hatts year 88 thru 90 they all had alot of stress cracks in the cockpit and around the fuel fills to the side deck.plus they had a tabbing problem in the heads. The bench seat on the bridge is way to short and the only place to change clothes is in the head because the state rooms are small. The older 37s seem to have more room.

 

[MikeP]

Can't trash yachtbrokers?

Can't badmouth surveys?

Geez, what's next? Are we going to have agree that the Arctic Monkeys really are better than the Beatles?

But seriously folks...
Jim R's points are right on. Despite my views of surveys, they are a fact of boating life, so it is more constructive (but less fun) to admit it and get on with it!

 

[Passages]

The 671 diesels are rated at 485 hp. CJD

Oh boy...those are the "TIB" version. How can I put this gently?...Have you ever heard the expression 'hand grenade with a loose pin'?

This version is the highest horsepower, least reliable of the 6-71 series. Due to the high pressure & heat generated by putting out that much power and the fact 6-71's just were never designed by GM to be hopped up that much, 1000 hours between overhauls is about it. They may be tired now at 850 hours.

Before you get discouraged, here's a strategy that might work:
-Get engines surveyed and hope they fail.
-If 1 cylinder is below min compression-that engine fails.
-Get a price reduction in proportion to a rebuild
-When you take title, First thing you do is derate the output by removing prop pitch. You can also reduce injector size but the prop pitch reduction should be done first.

Even if the engines pass survey - take out some pitch. Your engine will thank you.

Probably not what you wanted to hear but there it is.

 

[nor'easter]

If you are using a broker, and it might help if this is your first mid-sized boat (it did for me), then your broker can help with the price issue. Get your own broker, so he will hopefully represent your interest. Brokers can search yachtworld to see what boats of a certain make and length have sold for in the past. This is not always accurate, because it is reported by the selling brokerage and not some official service, but it will give you an idea what others have paid (not offered) for the boat you are looking at.

 

[cjd]

Not good news.
What does TIB mean

 

[Passages]

TIB= Turbo Intercooler Bypass

It forces LOTS of air and fuel in the cylinder.

 

[Captned]

First price was asking, then date when first listed, next was amount vessel sold for and date, then location.

Captned

38' Hatteras 38 Con. 1988 215,000 (03/04) 215,000 (07/04) FL, USA

38' HATTERAS 38 ... 1989 229,000 (02/00) 222,000 (04/00) NJ, USA

38' HATTERAS 38 ... 1989 229,000 (08/00) 215,000 (11/00) RI, USA

38' Hatteras 38 ... 1988 184,500 (01/04) 170,000 (08/04) FL, USA

38' Hatteras 38 ... 1988 174,000 (01/03) 160,000 (06/03) FL, USA

38' Hatteras 38 ... 1988 169,000 (09/01) 130,000 (12/02) NY, USA

38' Hatteras CON... 1990 269,000 (09/03) 220,000 (02/04) CA, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1990 229,000 (03/99) 205,000 (10/99) FL, USA

38' Hatteras con... 1989 250,000 (01/00) 250,000 (08/00) CA, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1989 178,590 (09/04) 178,590 (02/05) Greece

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 239,000 (04/99) 225,000 (06/99) TX, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 239,000 (04/99) 239,000 (03/00) FL, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 220,000 (02/01) 185,000 (04/01) NC, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 199,500 (06/05) 166,750 (02/06) TX, USA

38' HATTERAS con 1988 195,000 (06/99) 195,000 (10/99) FL, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 189,000 (09/00) 150,000 (12/02) NY, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 188,500 (08/99) 180,000 (03/00) FL, USA

38' Hatteras Con... 1988 172,000 (11/03) 165,000 (08/04) FL, USA

38' Hatteras Fly... 1989 179,000 (03/03) 179,000 (07/03) CA, USA


38' Hatteras Spo... 1989 199,000 (05/02) 199,000 (07/02) FL, USA

38' Hatteras SPO... 1988 154,000 (07/01) 125,000 (06/04) FL, USA

 

[worldsaway]

I had the 671 TIB on my last boat and they were great engines. I had them rebuilt when we bought the boat and they were slightly detuned to abt 450hp. I put 1000 hrs on them before selling the boat and they were still running great. Top rpm for these engines is 2500rpm and I would cruise at 2000rpm, oil changes every 100hrs. My experience with these was good but you have to treat them right. Good luck..

 

[nor'easter]

Captned,
That was quick. Where did you get that info.....is that something that anyone can access?

 

[SeaEric]

I'm a broker. I looked. There's not enough recent sold boat activity on that model in the database to form an educated opinion from previous sales. Look around, compare, then make a decison based upon whether you like the boat. If you like the boat and it seems to compare favorably to the others you have looked at, then make an offer. If there's something really big and ugly wrong with the boat, then Jim Rosenthal's cat would probably even notice it. Don't buy that one-move on. But if all seems OK, seatrial goes well, surveyor rides along for the seatrial (this is a good sign-because if the surveyor declines the ride, perhaps he has seen something really bad) then buy it an take it home. Whatever is wrong with the boat you will be fixing anyway. Whether it broke yesterday, today or tomorrow. Remember, the key is to like the boat and want to own it. If you buy something just because its a "good deal" and you don't really want the boat, then all the broken stuff you're repairing will only be for the next owner. Thats no fun.

P.S. Get the engines looked at by a professional. And Jim's cat suggested to make sure that the hour meters are actually working. Both are good suggestions.

 

[spartonboat1]

Tag from other thread, re: speeds and hp per the hull. I find my 6-71N's are happy at an rpm and speed (12.7Kn and 2,150 rpm) that comes out at about 185hp. This was the original HP of the 6-71N's that were used in permanent location situations, such as the oil fields. They were rated to run at full rpm 24x7 year round at 185hp, as I understand it. I might be off on my personal power calculations, but I do remember the spec from years ago on the field rated hp and duty rating...

 

[Walter P]

All of the following has been said before, but it's important to mention again:

Do NOT fall in love at first sight - if you do bring a friend and/or a surveyor on your next visit. Don't let the seller or the broker know you're smitten.

If the seller claims to have had major work done on the engines or other machinery, ask for proof such as a paid invoice from a reputable shop detailing exactly what was done.... Engine # --- rebuilt won't cut it.

If everything looks too good to be true, it's probably the case...

If you have to pay a yard to do all your regular work or upgrades, purchase a few new pens to write lots of checks - otherwise plan to do lots of your own work, which is probably better since you gain knowledge and expierence.

You may have plenty of experience with boats, but remember the old story about a lawyer who represents himself in court usually has a fool for a client.

If after reading all the comments on this thread, you still feel uneasy, perhaps you can hire Dr. Jim's cat to look the boat over for you.

Good luck, your certainly on the right track with a Hatteras..

Walt

 

[Captned]

Captned,
That was quick. Where did you get that info.....is that something that anyone can access?

Had a broker friend look it up.

 

[Trojan]

Does Doctor Jim Charge for his CAT SCAN?

 

[J's Dream]

All of the following has been said before, but it's important to mention again:

Do NOT fall in love at first sight - if you do bring a friend and/or a surveyor on your next visit. Don't let the seller or the broker know you're smitten.
Walt

On this note, I am selling my Grady White, and had someone come to look at it yesterday from 3 hours away. I had spoken to him on the phone for hours about the boat, and when he got here, he looked at the boat for 45 minutes, and said he would have a check Tuesday for me. No test ride, no looking in the bilge or under the cowling, no switch flipping, no electrical panel...NOTHING! He had decided on my boat before he saw it. Luckily for him, it's as good as I told him...but how is he to know that?!

 

[JTS]

We've got a 1985 36C and I suggest the following that you could do yourself.

If she has a swim platform. Remove the bottom machine screws on each bracket and look for moisture.

Look behind the flappers over the cockpit drain scuppers if so equiped and look for cracks around the scupper or possible crack repair.

If she has a transom door. Look for cracks around the opening in the transom.

All of the above could indicate wet core in the transom, even below the water line. Our 36C has core all the way to the hull bottom.

If the flybridge and console are screwed to the deck with many screws. Loosen them one at a time and then retighten to check holding power. If they don't hold you could have rotten wood core.

Also, there are other threads that discuss water in the keel.

I hope you find everything nice and dry. If you don't you will have an edge on negotiating that price down.

We've had ours nearly 21 years now and look forward to the next 21 years with her.

 

[cjd]

Hey CAPTNED, thanks for the previous sale info. They really seem to be holding there value!

JTS- Great idea about checking for the loose screws.

The cockpit has teak and teak over the gunnels? The wood looks to be seperating or loose. Can the teak be tightened easy enough. IS it fastened from underneath? I see alot of the same year or earlier models without the teak. Was that an option or have they been removed and re surfaced?

 

[jim rosenthal]

The teak deck is probably an add-on, which is not a problem if it was well done to begin with. However, the deck under it may be cored with Baltek or balsa, and if water has gotten in through the screw holes used to fasten the tack planking down to the deck, you may be in for some expensive repairs.

The 485hp TIB version of the 6-71 is wound up pretty tight- it is a lot of power to get out of that engine and they have a deserved rep for fragility. You would need a careful and complete engine survey. Up here, I think Central GMC and Marine is good- they are in Landover, MD. I very much agree with the above comment on de-rating the engines and loosening up the prop specs. As the stress on the engines decreases, their life increases.

If this boat is called "Hatt4Us", I looked on line and it looks rather nice to me. The price may well be in line if the boat is in good shape, has been kept up well, and the engine and hull surveys verify all that.

There are always surprises. Boats are so complex that you could only buy a rowboat and expect no surprises, and even then one of the oarlocks will stick on you . The surveys, inspection, sea trial, etc all are an attempt to reduce the number of surprises and their severity.

Look at it this way: it's a used boat, but it's also a used Hatteras, and if there's one used brand worth putting money into, it's a used Hatteras. Good luck and happy hunting.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I forgot: if you have real health insurance, you can get a CAT scan.

If you have an HMO, then the cat looks at you, and meows, and that's your cat scan.

 

[34Hatt]

If the flybridge and console are screwed to the deck with many screws. Loosen them one at a time and then retighten to check holding power. If they don't hold you could have rotten wood core.

Good suggestion but if it was my boat and you starting turn the screws and breaking the seal I would THROW you off but that just me, I would think twice about that.