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DD 6v92 shut down

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phasma2128
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Phasma2128

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Joined
Jan 9, 2021
Messages
257
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
48' COCKPIT MY-Series II (1993 - 1996)
Currently on a trip. Pulled in for the night. I can’t get the starboard engine to shut down. Turned the key off and hit the shut down button….no joy. Any ideas?
 
Key on to power the shutdown
 
Key on to power the shutdown
 
Plug the boat into shore power. Possibly you drained battery and it can’t pull in the shutdown solenoid. May have to pull it manually. If like mine the starboard is easier to access than port.
 
Thought the key was to be on when shutting down the engine.
After that there is a fuse in the ER DCv box.
Or, just reach over and pull the shut down rod at the governor.
Those coils do fail.
Measure DCv at the coil/solenoid to make sure it is getting power.
Is the rod binding on a fuel hose? The fuel pump, fuel hoses to/from run under this pull rod.

Oh, Detroits do not need electricity to run, Is the battery charged?
 
Batteries are new. Not sure where to find fuses
 
Thought the key was to be on when shutting down the engine.
After that there is a fuse in the ER DCv box.
Or, just reach over and pull the shut down rod at the governor.
Those coils do fail.
Measure DCv at the coil/solenoid to make sure it is getting power.
Is the rod binding on a fuel hose? The fuel pump, fuel hoses to/from run under this pull rod.

Oh, Detroits do not need electricity to run, Is the battery charged?

if Ipull the cover on the DC box the fuse will be in there?
 
I am currently out of town on the boat in Muskegon
 
If your stumped and tired I would just shut the fuel shut off.
 
Pull the rod by hand that connects to the shut down solenoid. It will be obvious what it is once you identify the solenoid. Its a round "can" with two wires on top of the engine with a rod coming out of one end.
 
Pull the rod by hand that connects to the shut down solenoid. It will be obvious what it is once you identify the solenoid. Its a round "can" with two wires on top of the engine with a rod coming out of one end.

Thanks Skycheney. That worked. Probably need a new shut down solenoid? Possibly a fuse or wire?
 
if Ipull the cover on the DC box the fuse will be in there?
If you have the 2 door cover, remove the screws from the smaller panel, it will hinge down. Fuses are straight in. Check your prints for proper fuse spec.
 
We had one doing this earlier in the year.
Went into engine room and the auxiliary shut down still worked and shut down the eng.
we have a separate set of gauges and start/stop switch’s next to Engs.
found a bad shut down switch at the helm.
 
Probably the solenoid. I had the same problem.
 
I had this issue when my batteries were a little tired.

Especially being off idle AT ALL, sometimes I would run them up 100 rpms or so when docking and it wasn't that noticeable, but it wouldn't shut down.

Those solenoids are expensive, so, I would make sure you are getting the right amount of juice to it, etc.

You can test it out when it is not running.
 
Hey Y'all,

I have Covington 671 TIC's on my 41C sometimes starboard won't shut down after a long day. I suppose it can be diagnosed the same way as on this gents DD6V92's? It's one of those intermittent probs, which has made it hard to diagnose. Kind of hot down there after a long day and i usually just push the rod back toward aft to kill it.

Thanks, Moon Howler
 
Hey Y'all,

I have Covington 671 TIC's on my 41C sometimes starboard won't shut down after a long day. I suppose it can be diagnosed the same way as on this gents DD6V92's? It's one of those intermittent probs, which has made it hard to diagnose. Kind of hot down there after a long day and i usually just push the rod back toward aft to kill it.

Thanks, Moon Howler

When it gets hot, wires and windings don't behave and pass current like when cold. Crimps, Green/dark cored wire, poor splices, Rust or corrosion issues multiply in the heat.
If you are not feeling any restriction from the hot solenoid when manually shutting down and eliminating a bind from a crooked rod travel, it may just not be getting enough current.

Been here.

Before replacing that solenoid, Re-run new heavier wires as far as you can with heavier marine grade wire. Bet ya a cup of coffee (or other) your fixed.
 
Thanks Cap Ralph! Will do. I've spent most of my adult life messing about on boats, but never owned one in this size/complexity. It has been a fascinating learning curve. I don't know what I would/could do without the insights from this fine group - and the previous owner who has been fantastic.

It's a very well maintained boat, which took me about 10 years to find. Constantly impressed with the quality build, redundancies and "the book" that came with it.

I hope to return the favors at some point. Will run new/heavier wiring and report.

See y'all out there!
 

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