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Cleaning air seps

  • Thread starter Thread starter doc g
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doc g

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Hatteras Model
75' SPORT DECK MY (2000 - present)
Since I can't figure out how to serach the forum anymore ......What products can be used to clean air seps? What do you re-oil them with?? ...................Pat
 
I would be interested in the good advice of the HOF on this subject as well
 
There is a kit consisting of cleaner and oil that is sold for the purpose.

Bob
 
so do you order one for each filter you have to clean???................Pat
 
No. Each kit will clean several, or will clean two, several times.
 
Out of one kit, I can clean two filters and then have a little bit left over. So, I generally buy one kit for each engine. You can find this at any auto parts store. Remember to wash the filters from the inside out, spraying the water through the filters from the inside.
 
In stead of buying the kits, buy the big bottle of cleaner and the big spray can of oil. Its much cheaper and will do both engines twice. NAPA sells both. Mark
 
It's really important to clean them. A friend had his airsep filters totally collapse and tear apart because they were clogged. This issue wasn't really that the filter was so dirty in itself but because the airseps tend to not really separate the oil/air as well as their adds indicate, the filter became oil soaked which contributed to the failure. I have a pic of one of the destroyed filter elements somewhere. If I find it I'll post it.
 
The oil separation takes place inside the airsep canister. If the exterior filter element (cone shaped) is dirty, it means it is doing its job of filtering ambient air prior to entering the airsep chamber and that is what needs to be cleaned on all models.

Collapsing filters can be caused by several things. An incorrect Vacuum Regulator (installed backwards or not in the recommended vertical orientation) the actual VR getting dirty/plugged up in the traditional models (those airseps with the filter element held on by springs).

The newer CCE Airseps (models without the springs) still need to have their filter elements cleaned in the traditional manner. The CCE model DOES have internal filters that need to be replaced as a set. They can not be cleaned. The vacuum regulator on those newer models have a poppet valve inside and if they sense a restriction, will actually release an internal check valve releasing excess pressure from the crankcase.

If someone finds oil seeping out of the airsep that usually means the oil drain line check valve was installed backwards or not at the proper angle to allow sufficient gravity pull to drain into the crankcase.

You can view how the system works by going to this link: http://www.walkerairsep.com/quality_works.asp

It is also recommended that the primary airfilters be cleaned no more than 2-3 times before replacement.

Another source of the cleaning kits, filter replacements, springs, vacuum regulators and entire airsep conversion kits is your local West Marine or Fisheries store if you're in the Pacific NW. If your local store doesn't stock what you're looking for, they can order it from the DC and it will be there with their next truck.
 
Interesting - his units didn't exactly look like that but the example clearly shows that the oil "separating" occurs inside the filter area and therefore should not affect the filter itself. His filters were enclosed and were not visible at all so the collapse of the filters was not apparent until the units were opened.

I agree that the design shouldn't cause any problem with the filter. The rest of the design...well that's a different story. The Racor CCV is a much better way to accomplish the task with essentially no possibility of pulling oil into the intake system/engine.
 
You can use K&N air cleaner kit comes with solution and light oil to spray them with or you can use good ole dawn soap in a five gallon bucket and let them air dry then spray with light oil.
tight lines.
 

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