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Can you recommend a thread sealant?

Top Hatt Craig

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Messages
322
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
Recently developed a slow drip while running at the 1" pipe elbow pictured. Tried 3/4" wide teflon tape (leaving first thread uncovered) only to have it leak after a couple hours run time. Next was Permatex "high performance" thread sealant ($15) and the "recommended for best performance" Permatex Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics ($20) Waited the recommended 24 hours before use and the leak returned after an hour of run time. I had cleaned both threads as well as possible with a small stainless brush and can not see any cracks. I THINK what's happening is since this fitting has to be positioned just so it's not really tight, although I do have to use a wrench to position it. The remnants of the original thread sealant are rock hard and seam tough as nails. I'm considering Locktite 592 thread sealant but have to order it and the recommended cure time is 72 hours. Thanks for any advise, regards Craig.
 

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Grab the Teflon tape and wind it around your middle finger. This way it can't be used ever again.

Are you sure you have the correct thread types? Straight vs tapered? It should not leak if the threads are right after applying the cremated or my favorite blue stuff leak lock.

If it does I think there's another issue to address.
 
No teflon for fuel lines is #1. If it ain't tight it ain't right even if it's pipe threads. If you can't get it around another turn get a new elbow. It's gotta be tight to seal even with sealant.

Bet you can lube it and work it around back and forth very gradually and then clean and seal.
 
I've had good luck with this stuff.
 

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After years of battling the crappy fittings of the new generation I have developed the following list which finally has the threaded fitting leak monkey off of my back:

3/8" or less - white teflon tape or leak lock

>3/8" - pink teflon tape or leak lock

hydraulic/pnuematic/fuel - Loctite 545 which is what I recommend here because the high lubricity may allow that extra turn.

As stated above make sure your tapered/tapered or straight/straight. There is also BSP which could also be screwing you up,

Good luck.

George
 
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No teflon for fuel lines is #1. If it ain't tight it ain't right even if it's pipe threads. If you can't get it around another turn get a new elbow. It's gotta be tight to seal even with sealant.

Bet you can lube it and work it around back and forth very gradually and then clean and seal.

I agree that teflon tape can clog up injectors etc, but the liquid stuff I've never had a problem with. PTFE line is used widely for A/C lines and fuel lines and holds up well to solvents. As a material its good stuff. I'm curious why this is not recommended.
 
Thanks all, great inputs. That NPT elbow is the one that's been in there since new and is the same as the other three. I was reluctant to replace it because it says USA on it and I don't see anything wrong with it, other than it tightens up just past where I need it to and could break the oil filter housing if over tightened. I think I'll buy two or three 1" elbows and see if I can get one to tighten up in the right position. I may have to re-orientate the elbow on the oil hose as the odds are against it lining up correctly with the fittings on the oil pump in a different elbow but oh well. Thanks and best wishes Craig
 
I agree that teflon tape can clog up injectors etc, but the liquid stuff I've never had a problem with. PTFE line is used widely for A/C lines and fuel lines and holds up well to solvents. As a material its good stuff. I'm curious why this is not recommended.
Meant teflon tape. Sorry I was unclear.
 
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IMO, you should not have to be finding the perfect goop. Pipe threads should be damn-near sefl sealing I would replace the elbow to get one with favorable thread position, such that you are tight where you need to be. Then any of the goops that are fuel rated should work just fine. Trying to solve a fit issue with goops is not the way to go.

Gary
 
IMO, you should not have to be finding the perfect goop. Pipe threads should be damn-near sefl sealing ...

That was back in the day of MADE IN USA. No the chindia junk sometimes won't seal with all to goop in the world.
 
That was back in the day of MADE IN USA. No the chindia junk sometimes won't seal with all to goop in the world.

I have found this to be the sad reality. Although some specialty shops still have sources for better fittings and you can mitigate the issue somewhat by spinning a handful from the bin first, it's still been downhill. Good for the goop makers.

George
 
I use 4200 to seal pipe threads. Works fine for me.
 
I know most of us don't have 1" NPT taps and dies in our pocket, but if you do, or know someone who does maybe you could get a half a turn on the fitting or housing so the elbow can go around one more time and tighten up in the right place.
 
I used that sealant at the Recomendation of a local hose distributor when I switch my trans to sin on filters. Every connection leaked in time. Solved the problem with Teflon tape.

24 hour cure time? :)
 
I will not argue that the offshore stuff can be of lower quality. But re-reading the thd, there IS a fit issue. OP has to back-off a little from "tight". He also mentions some original sealant that is "hard as a rock". I believe the threads should be chased with tap/die. May be a local plumbing shop that will do it. The filter looks pretty removable.

There are still miles of pipe threads installed in gas furnace instls. Low pressure systems I know, but they do a higher pressure (60 psi?) test per code.

Gary
 
Are you sure that the leak is not coming from either a cracked fitting or housing?
 

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