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36 Volt In Place Of 32V?

Now you have me thinking I didn't actually look but I made the assumption that my port bank was being used to crank the port engine. Dumb assumption cause I'm thinking your proubably right. I will have to check that. If your correct that might be a very good option although it could mean re configuring battery boxes. Also I would like to have both alternators charging the house bank so I'm back to one of original questions. If I use an Isolater to allow the cranking batteries alternator to charge the house banks golf cart batteries do I run into the mis match problem or does the use of an isolater solve that?
 
Most likely the port bank does start the port engine(mine does), but that should not be a problem. Those golf cart batts will start it just fine, and if they didn't, that is why we have the parallel switch. As far as alternators, I doubt you would need both to charge either. It would depend on load and length of time running, but you will probably run the genset some too, so you can charge then as well.
 
Yes the port bank does start the port engine and also functions as the house bank. I could change that it would be nice to have the deep cycle golf cart batteries for the house bank. Problem is that it would require replacing the battery boxs and a lot of re aranging so it's just not worth it.

I will stick with my original plan of building a seperate bank dedicated to generator starting and combining the two existing banks to increase capacity.

I wish I could find a combiner or intergrator for 32V. I can use an isolator but it will cause a voltage drop I know on 12V systems it's pretty substantial but I would think on 32V it wouldn't be so bad.
 
I LOVE the Hat mast. The one thing a PO did I hated was removing the original. Yours is even better than the original. I am constantly looking for a way to hang all the extra gear (SAT dish, stabilized; RADAR, and other assorted antennas to our boat but want to keep the origial look. You seem to come pretty close!!!
 
I just tossed out all my 8 volts batteries in place 0f 3 8d 12volt (1650 cca)
for each battery bank.

FYI Industrial 8v = 92.5 lbs. ea.
12v = 134 lbs ea.

P.S. Hint the new items & cableing for each bank needed are:
1 - 36 " cable pos. to neg. '00'
1 - 15" cable pos. to neg. '00'
1 additional Battery box
Blue seas makes a nice one but it is rather large
1 Electrical numbering roll
1 roll of red electrical tape (3m)
1 roll of black electrical tape
2 sets of terminals Pos. and Neg.
6 brass washers for new terminals
AND MOST IMPORTANT wrap around safety glasses and rubber gloves

Good luck
Al
 
What about alternators, chargers and other voltage sensative items?
 
I just tossed out all my 8 volts batteries in place 0f 3 8d 12volt (1650 cca)
for each battery bank


1. Wow - whose 12v batts have that much CCA? Surette shows their max cca bat in a 12 V heavy duty marine batt to be an 8D at 1150 cca and it costs 928 bucks and weighs 172 pounds!

2. Why did you replace the 32V system?
 
I was kinda pissed today, but got over it with a dose of honesty. I was supposed to have 4 new 8 volt EXIDE batteries delivered last Friday. No call, no show. Today I finally got to the bottom of the problem... EXIDE did a quality control test before shipping and found the shelf life expired and the didnt want to ship half dead units. Imagine that !! They said they are building me a brand new set, but wont be here for another week. They said the demand for the 8Vs was so low that they went bad before selling !! One more reason to shit can the 8s. If only I knew then what I know now, I wouldve begun a conversion with the new 8V starters and alternators.... I mite consider 2-12s and an 8 when they start to go. Charging rates concerned me, but they are just 2 volts per cell. Wont they "float" to full charge?? ws
 
Interstate 8D-MHD 1400 cca 450 RC 36 month warranty 20-3/4 x 11 x 9-5/8 132 lbs

Only $900 from west marine. probably under $200.00
 
I have several friends who have converted from 32v to 36v. The starters tolerate the increased voltage well as does the wiring and electric heads. In each case it was told that it was possible to adjust the alternator output sufficiently to charge the batteries. Each uses the genset all the time so I don’t know how well the engines alone would keep the charge. The latest conversion used a Dual Pro PS 12/24/36V 15A 3 Bank Waterproof Charger # DPPS153 which apparently worked well with AGM 12v batteries even to the point of identifying a bad battery in the 3 battery bank. I am going to convert my 32v system simply to eliminate about 200 pounds forward not to mention having to wrestle those 8 volt batteries into place. If anyone has any better information it would be appreciated.
 
You will cause one battery to need more charge than the others and may "cook" the other 2 upon charging. The only way to do this is with a converter or an equalizer. Read Calders chapter on this.



who is calders? Are you talking about a book?
 
I have several friends who have converted from 32v to 36v. The starters tolerate the increased voltage well as does the wiring and electric heads. In each case it was told that it was possible to adjust the alternator output sufficiently to charge the batteries. Each uses the genset all the time so I don’t know how well the engines alone would keep the charge. The latest conversion used a Dual Pro PS 12/24/36V 15A 3 Bank Waterproof Charger # DPPS153 which apparently worked well with AGM 12v batteries even to the point of identifying a bad battery in the 3 battery bank. I am going to convert my 32v system simply to eliminate about 200 pounds forward not to mention having to wrestle those 8 volt batteries into place. If anyone has any better information it would be appreciated.


as mentioned earlier on, there are no benefits... how will you save 200 lbs ?

as to wrestle those 8v batteries in place, i don't have that problem with 8v Golf cart batteries... they weight 60 lbs each...
 
I am going to try the conversion from 32 to 36 volts for starting. I already converted lights, refrigeration and inverter to 12 volts 14 years ago, but kept the 32 volt system for the starters and Windlass. I have had to replace the 8 volt batteries about every 4 years and can't physically do it any longer. They are under the galley in a cramped place and I don't have the strength to manhandle the 8-volt batteries in that cramped space like I could when I was young. I currently have TWELVE 6-volt house batteries and will make two 36-volt banks that can be paralleled. I will disconnect the 32 volt charger and the 32 volt alternator and charge the 36-volt banks with my 2000 watt solar system, setting one of my two charge controllers to 36 volts. My 12-volt system, which is lights, refrigeration, invertor and vacuflush heads will be switched from the lead-acid battery banks to a 200 AMP hour Lithium-ion battery. Now my only lead acid batteries will be located in the much better ventilated starboard engine room and I will no longer have to service lead-acid 8-volt banks in the cramped area under the galley floor. It also eliminates corrosive battery gases down there, which has killed several inverters over the years. I'll let you know how it goes and of any problems with the final configuration.
 
As mentioned 14 years ago when this thread was last active, you can use 8V golf cart batteries to start the DDs. If access is a problem in the genny room then move the start batteries to each engine room, I m pretty sure there is plenty of room outside the engines. I now have repowered to 12V Cummins. Each have a single 8D outboard of the engine. I know the DDs are wider but I m sure the 4 8V golf cart batteries could be mounted lengthwise along the hull. Unless you have stabs.

I would never have engines without alternators and rely on solar.
 
I had to convert to 36v 4 years ago because it was almost impossible to get hold of 8 v here in my neck of the world (venezuela). The only modifications I had to make was to change the Galley Maid Head pump breakers because the originals will not handle the new load. I also installed 2 Pro Sports 12 v chargers that can handle 3 banks each. ( one for each battery) I have had mixed results with them. They work OK with sealed batteries but not so good with the vented ones. I am in the process of modifying the venerable Sentry 32 charger . When you do your boating on third world countries you have to improvise. Good luck
 
I am going to put in my 2 cents, last time I did this on this subject I was rejected. I switched the entire 58yf to 12 volt, more than 10 years ago. Spent about $6,000 on parts. Now every battery on board is a group 31, 3 Group 31s easily start a 8 71.

The tricky part is the heads, while your choices expand, some are expensive. I selected Jabsco Quite flush, and ithey have worked well. They only 25 amps.

There is nothing on board that can not be reliable or safe, at 12 volts.

The best part is i could carry 2 G31 batteries at the same time, i don't but i could and can install them alone.

1 G31 battery, 950CCA can be purchased under $100 deep cycles about $140 to $180

I would suggest 36 volt is going to shorten the life of some bulbs and motors,, (bildge pump, water pump, blowers, heads and waste pumps.

If this interests you PM me.

I am currently caring for almost 1,000 Group 31 batteries, 348 are deep cycle, and I have a grip on DC volts.

If you are riled up, let me have it, again.
 
The current down here is 120 AC.
 

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