1972 Hatteras 45 Convertible Refit

[madhatter1]

You can fix the edge of the blade with a block of wood and a short handle sledge hammer. Just hold block firmly behind the blade and tap the ding with the hammer. Once that side is flat reverse the block and tap from that side. I have done this many times on haulout where no vibration was felt but I wanted to fix but had no need to send props out.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Tap it out as noted. It's likely to be fine.

With regard to the decks, find a product similar to Awlgrip (Sterling, Imron, maybe?- a two part linear polyurethane) that you can roll and tip, or just roll, which would be the preferred method on your decks. As long as you sand them and wash them off with acetone or some other degreaser, it will stick fine. The blue is a good idea if paints yellow, where you are. But a painted deck with nonskid in it will hold up as well as anything else, and it will be a lot cheaper.

 

[Cricket]

Just about any 2 part paint will work, same stuff that goes on commercial vehicles/equipment and or cars.


I'm not a big fan of the foam decking products either, except for on outboard bracket decks, cooler tops and bottoms and other similar type spots.
Friend just did the bridge deck of a large 2 year old Viking, guy was so proud, just couldn't tell him that he destroyed his $3mil boat.
Seadeck and similar products eventually degrade due to UV exposure. If you're going the glue down route check the temperature rating of the adhesive that's being used.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thank you all for your sound advice. In all cases we are postponing the decking issue so as not to delay the completion of the refit project.

Just as an update, today we completed most of the vinyl film wrap and I wanted to share an initial image with you. I would expect that many would rather stick to the original white hull. I hope some might find the new look appealing as well.

Thanks,
Karim

 

[BlueArrow]

Hello, I'm seeking your guidance if anyone can help me find the source for lights that are in the topside of the hull.

There are 2 in the bow and 2 in the stern. They are all 29cm (11.42”) wide and 22cm (8.66”) high. Each light has an independent switch. They are in bad shape and I believe it is worthwhile replacing them. Perhaps new models come in LED and more energy efficient.

Thank,
Karim

 

[BlueArrow]

Docking Lights 12volts update: I found the following information...

MORSE TYPE-C E-9304 U.S. PAT No. 2504866

Will now search for replacement and upgrade to LED if possible.

Thanks,
Karim

 

[Cricket]

Love the wrap, can't wait to see how it holds up.
How do they handle the water line stripes, etc?

Looks like the Morse docking lights are being made by Sierra now.
Here's the link to their catalogue. Doesn't show an LED option, book is from 2019.
Maybe email them if LED is now or soon to be available.

http://sierramarine.com/sierra/2019/2019sierracatalog.html#p=62

 

[BlueArrow]

Love the wrap, can't wait to see how it holds up.
How do they handle the water line stripes, etc?

Looks like the Morse docking lights are being made by Sierra now.
Here's the link to their catalogue. Doesn't show an LED option, book is from 2019.
Maybe email them if LED is now or soon to be available.

http://sierramarine.com/sierra/2019/2019sierracatalog.html#p=62

Thanks Cricket for all your help. The technicians applying the vinyl film are adding silicon to the edges. It should hold well. They offer a guarantee of 3 years.

Labor cost is low in our case. To give you an idea the cost of wrapping the entire 45ft hull including material came to a total of $1,400.

If I'm not mistaken this is much cheaper than paint. We can wrap her again with the next antifouling job. (I hope that won't be necessary though.)

Thanks,
Karim

 

[BlueArrow]

Thanks to all the guidance I received here, I'm glad to share with you the completion of phase 1 of our refit. This covered:

- Engine repair and tune up
- Anchor windlass repair
- Added new swim platform
- Hull works completed
- Bonding system checked
- Zinc anodes replaced
- Propulsion system checked
- Steering pump fixed
- Rudders checked
- Vinyl film applied
- Antifouling paint

Prior to the antifouling paint we clocked a maximum of 8 knots at 2200 RPM. Today at the same engine speed we clocked 13 knots on a windy day. I would appreciate any thoughts regarding the performance of the 48 year old Detroit Diesel 8v71T engines.

Thanks,
Karim

 

[Cricket]

Think your speed is low for the engines.
Used to run a similar 45 with 8v71N's back and forth from New Jersey to Florida in the early 80's when I was in school.
What I remember is WOT was something like 19-20 knots and cruise at 1950-2000 rpm was 16 knots.
The owner used to tell me to run it wide open all the time because he did.
That's a long time ago so I could be off a little bit, somebody on here probably has 8v71TI data.

Also think you have to take into account high water temperature, makes a bigger difference than you would think.

 

[BlueArrow]

We had an incident this morning. Between the time the skipper left the dock last night making sure all was okay and by the time he returned this morning he found the boat tilting. The engine rooms were flooded with 1.5 feet of water.

We salvaged the situation. It seems we had a leak in the port engine sea water strainer. And as you can imagine 2 bilge pumps out of the 4 were dead. Probably a short circuit somewhere.

Luckily the engines were not running. We drained the oil. Cleaned the engines. Refilled new oil and both engines are up and running.

I was wondering if there are alarms that can be setup for standard bilge pumps (Rule 2000) in the case of such failures or electrical shortages on similar aged boats?

Many thanks,
Karim

 

[Boatsb]

High water alarms are very common. Depending on if your float switches (Ultra) have built in sensors or adding more switches located higher in the bilge its not a hard system to install.

 

[scottinsydney]

www.aqualarm.net has all the products you need.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thanks again for everyone's guidance. I'm ordering parts and was wondering if anyone has come across a stainless steel fixture that secures the top of the moveable ladder connecting between the salon and the galley.

The ladder is removable to allow access to the fridge and the cabinets behind. This holds the ladder in place. I'm not sure what you would actually call it. The ladder slides in.

Otherwise, the refit is under way, we will be fabricating the exhausts this week. Considering galvanised steel or stainless steel, if you have thoughts, I would appreciate it.

All the best,
Karim

 

[Scarlett]

There is an “L” bracket with a screw in fitting that a lot of these boats use in different locations, that might work well for your ladder.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thanks Scarlett for the suggestion. I will try to find a similar L bracket.

In the meantime regarding the exhausts, we will most probably fabricate them in stainless steel which hopefully will last longer.

All the best,
Karim

 

[BlueArrow]

I hope those reading this post are in the best of health. Excuse me for the long hiatus. I was waiting for the parts shipment to arrive before updating you further.

In the meantime, the team had a mishap today. While out at sea they lost the port engine propeller. I'm not sure how that could have happened. We assume that the pin broke.

In all cases I need to find a replacement. It appears they are Michigan Wheel Propellers. The inscriptions are as follows:

8 72
27 RH 34
Grand Rapids, Mich

8 72
27 LH 34
Grand Rapids, Mich
​

I will try to source the propeller locally, but it seems highly unlikely that we will find an exact match.

Option 1
Source an identical propeller. If so, please recommend a good source.

Option 2
Find 2 propellers that are similar and locally available to replace the lost one and the remaining one.

Not sure if there's a third option. Your recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Karim

 

[Dan Mapes]

Must be my vision but the threads on the shaft end look really smooth?

 

[BlueArrow]

Thanks Dan, were you looking for a thread similar to this one?

 

[BlueArrow]

Major snag! After a long hiatus while waiting for good photos to share on the progress of the refit, we're facing a new hurdle where we've detected water leaking in the lower cabins and unable to find the culprit.

We tried blocking some of the below water line holes in sequence to try to identify if one of them had an issue. That exercise did not help.

We lifted Blue Arrow yesterday. Trying to find the source for the water intake.

You might recall in the earlier post in this thread that we lost one of the propellers in the sea trials. We're wonering if the shaft holding that propeller might have gotten damaged and the surrounding part of the hull might have caused the leak.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Karim