1972 Hatteras 45 Convertible Refit

[jim rosenthal]

If it runs well, it will cost you a great deal less to clean it up and service it than it will to buy a new one. If you decide on a new one, stick to Northern Lights or Kohler. Also look in boatsandharbors.com to see if you can find a recent takeout, you might save a lot of money doing that.

 

[oscarvan]

If you decide on a new one, stick to Northern Lights or Kohler.

After researching the availability of parts/expertise for them in THAT part of the world. I recall Fisher-Pandas being the staple in Europe.

 

[Scarlett]

Don’t, whatever you do buy a 3600 rpm Fisher Panda you will hate yourself. They are really quiet but do not hold up at all. John

 

[jim rosenthal]

Boy is that true. The cooling coils corrode in salt water and the next thing you know the whole set is toast.

 

[lv2snorkel]

I have a 1972 38DC that was refit with Cummins Diesel engines, new generator, mechanical, etc. It was a great investment.

 

[miboatnutz]

We are progressing well with the refit. We've reached the generator stage. The original was fitted back in 1972:

Onan
15.0 MDJF-3CR/2268C
0672449242

The generator was replaced in 1999 and has broke down a few years ago has the following details:

Onan
15MDKAD
SPEC: 66906A
J943237874

I've attached some images and I'm seeking your guidance whether I should invest the time, effort and cost to fix a 21-year old generator or replace it with a new model? I would appreciate your suggestions regarding a recommended brand. Thanks

We've got the original Kohler generator on our 1972 Chris Craft. Since parts were getting harder and harder to find, we actually bought another generator identical to ours as a parts unit. I think we paid $350.00 and have already replaced several parts from the spare unit. Worked out nicely.

If you're considering a replacement unit, I'd go with Northern Lights (new or used) or Kohler/Onan pre-circuit board vintage which may wind up being in the same time frame as the unit you already have.

Also it may be worthwhile to do a little more homework on the unit you have right now if you need engine parts. Virtually all of the generator manufacturers source their engines from third parties such as Yanmar, Isuzu, Kubota or John Deere, to name a few. These same engines were used in tractors, zero turn lawnmowers, and reefer units, so depending on the engine type, you may be able to buy parts either online, at a tractor dealer or reefer repair facility, usually for much less money than a marine application.

One final comment. That 45 Ft. Hatteras is iconic and I don't know about others but for me back in the day that boat defined the very best of large sport boats. Literally gave definition to the term "battle wagon" as it related to boats. Kudos to you for bringing the old girl back to life and you should be as proud (maybe more so) than the guy who just wrote a fat check for a brand new one.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thank you all for your generous comments. Greatly appreciated. Very proud of this project. I hope I do not disappoint many by changing the configuration.

I wanted to share with you that we had the first sea trials today. I'm not sure how to upload videos here or if you can in the first place. I'm adding them to DropBox for those who are interested.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wneh8hj02cr5zjv/Blue Arrow Sea Trials 20200711.mp4?dl=0

The good news is that the engines clocked 2500 RPM. The starboard engine tachometer gauge is not working properly. Will need to replace all gauges and switches.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I don't know where you plan to get your new gauges/senders, etc, but you should look at Isspro, on the USA West Coast. Very knowledgeable and I think I have had Isspro tachometers in my Hatteras for fifteen years, now.

 

[BlueArrow]

I don't know where you plan to get your new gauges/senders, etc, but you should look at Isspro, on the USA West Coast. Very knowledgeable and I think I have had Isspro tachometers in my Hatteras for fifteen years, now.

I'm in touch with a couple of suppliers:

New Wire Marine
https://newwiremarine.com/

I've ordered from them rocker switches in the past for another newer boat and they were great. They might not be as experienced with analogue gauges and classic switches.

AC DC Marine Inc.
https://acdcmarineinc.com/

I found them by searching for gauges for the Detroit Diesel 8V71T engines and found that they have done similar work.

I will see what each supplier proposes and what works best for the helm and dashboard we have. I will contact Isspro and see what they offer.

I'm not sure why there are 3 switches for the anchor. Forgive me for the oil stains and the deteriorated wood panels. Thanks

 

[oscarvan]

Video looked pretty good!

 

[BlueArrow]

Thank you all for your encouragement, support and advice. I'm glad to report that we've made progress in fixing the IDEAL anchor windlass which is operational now. Here is a link to a video on DropBox:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/scvwg4vqpghc4mj/Blue Arrow Video 20200715 Anchor Windlass Operational.mp4?dl=0

I also managed to contact Ms. Joy Ruel of Schaefer Marine who acquired IDEAL. Currently they provide parts and service for those products. Extremely supportive and cooperative. Now that the old windlass is working, I'm not sure I need to buy a new motor or keep one on stand by.

Finally, I'm seeking the services of DLBA, Naval Architects who are kindly assisting us with a reconfiguration of the General Arrangement for the salon and cockpit. They will be looking at the transition between the two open areas as well as giving consideration to the structural support of the flybridge now that we have removed the aft bulkhead.

Once again, thank you all for your wise counsel and guidance. Greatly appreciated.

 

[BlueArrow]

Following is an update image of the engines after we got them up and running. I know this is cosmetic, but I thought it is a good start to have a clean engine room and neat engines. Working on the port engine. We used spray paint that can tolerate very high temperatures.

I'm wondering if you have any suggestions on the best treatment for the engine room walls and floor. Do we just use white paint or is there an adhesive silver film that would make it look sharper and easier to maintain clean.

Thanks

 

[jim rosenthal]

If you can get it clean enough for pain to stick, paint it. Getting an old engine room clean is maybe the hardest job on bringing a boat back to life.

Or you could pay RAClarkson a fortune to fly out and do it. No matter what he charges, it's well worth it.

 

[BlueArrow]

Working on the cleaning and painting job. I would imagine it would end up better than the previous state. I wish I could afford to fly out RAClarkson to do the professional job needed.

In the meantime, we started removing the rust from the Cummins Onan generator. Keeping fingers crossed that we could get it to start again. Will keep you posted.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

If you can get it clean enough for pain to stick, paint it. Getting an old engine room clean is maybe the hardest job on bringing a boat back to life.

Or you could pay RAClarkson a fortune to fly out and do it. No matter what he charges, it's well worth it.

Thanks, Jim. Very generous of you to offer my services!

Blue, I started with Rust-Oleum Top Sides High Gloss white for engine room walls and non-ER bilges five years ago. I have no complaints. A thorough cleaning was all that was necessary. Adhesion, gloss and cleanability have remained excellent. So, that's an oil based paint that's easy to work with and a good value.

I wasn't as happy with the product in the engine beds and central aisle; adhesion was good, but it dulled easily. There, I went with Interlux Perfection two-part in Snow White. It's harder to work with and requires a respirator, but it maintains its gloss and is about impervious to oil or diesel meaning it's also easy to clean. Using the correct thinner and roller is absolutely critical. Matter of fact, I painted the interior of a badly scratched and etched Galley Maid toilet bowl over a year ago and it's an absolute joy to use...uh...the paint I mean.


Racors are next.

 

[BlueArrow]

Hello Robert,

Thank you for your sound advice. I doubt that our engine room will come anywhere close to yours, which is impeccable. Beautiful dog!

I will share the photos as we complete the cleaning and spray painting. Given the limited resource and scarce qualified professionals, we are making do with what we can.

Cheers,
Karim

 

[oscarvan]

I see determination and hard work. You'll get there.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thank you for your continued support! Today we removed the 48-year-old Frigidaire side-by-side refrigerator and freezer!

Would you recommend installing the same style fridge in the galley?

Having two small doors instead of one big one serves opening the fridge door 90 degrees in the small passage area from the salon to the galley.

Many thanks,
Karim

PS. I thought you might be interested in the text below for memories sake...




This is the OCR of text inside the fridge door:

Model FPCI -165VS
Frost-Proof Refrigerator-Freezer

Description: This 16.5 cu. ft." side-by-side refrigerator-freezer is 100% Frost-Proof. 10.46 cu. ft." storage space in refrigerator section; 6.04 cu. ft. * freezer is rated at 211 lbs. storage. 22.8 sq. ft. * net shelf area.
* Certified correct by AHAM

Special Features: 16.5 cu. ft. of storage space in a cabinet only 30 inches wide • Full width 7-day Meat Tender holds up to 18.8 lbs. • Sliding basket in freezer • Adjustable shelf and sliding shelf in refrigerator section • 3 Flex-Quik ice trays hold 16 cubes each • Removable Ice Server holds 59 cubes (4 3/4 lbs.)

Basic Features: Separate infinite-position Refrigerator and Freezer Controls provide temperature flexibility • Flowing Cold chills every corner evenly • Upfront interior light in both sections • Full-width Hydrator holds up to 17.7 qts. of fruits of fruits and vegetables • Twin removable egg servers hold 12 eggs each • Special compartments: Cheese ‘N Snacks, Spreads • Deep door shelf for ½-gal. cartons • Frig-Foam insulation • Non-clog condenser never needs cleaning

Safety Features: Listed by U. L. re 3-wire service cord and grounding plug • OFF position on Refrigerator Control • Magnetic door seals— doors open from inside or outside.

Finishes: Acrylic enamel exterior • Stain-resistant one-piece interior (ABS) • Porcelain-on-steel Hydrator and Meat Tender • Steel Shelves • Wood-tone door handles • Exterior available in Harvest Gold Avocado, Colonial Copper, and Snowcrest White

Accessories (at extra charge): “Add-On” Automatic Ice Maker (IMK-2) • Built-in Trim kit (Kit No. EM-24572)

Installation: Must be installed 1-1/4” from wall on either side for 90° door openings • Must be installed 2-3/4” from wall on right and 2-1/2” from wall on left for fully usable interior • Allow 2” above top for air circulation (4” for recessed installation) • Allow ½” between wall and condenser on back • Water connection required for Automatic Ice Maker accessory • Separate 3-wire Grounded circuit required • Installation Should conform to national and local electrical codes (also plumbing codes for Ice Maker accessory)

Electrical Characteristics: Operate on 115 volts 60 Hz., A.C, 5.8 amps

Dimensions: 65-7/8” high • 30” wide • 29-3/4” deep (door closed); 44-3/4” deep with right-hand door opened 90° 39-3/4” deep for left hand door • Approx. net weight 277 lbs

 

[madhatter1]

I recommend you keep the 48 year old fridge. Way better than anything you can buy today.

 

[BlueArrow]

Thanks for the advice. We'll work on repairing the fridge and see how that goes.

In the meantime the work on the GenSet is undergoing. It was hoisted this morning and repair works will be continued on shore. Will keep you posted on our progress.