1965 41 DCMY Refit

[drburke]

Wow! Quite a beauty!

DAN

 

[sgharford]

God Bless Ya for sharing your restoration with us. Really tasteful, what we should all strive for.

 

[Vincentc]

I gets better and better. Very impressive . I appreciate your posts.

 

[Finalee]

This is one of the few where it can be said it is "Better than New"!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

This is one of the few where it can be said it is "Better than New"!

Those are the ones that you never find when they sell. They don't make it online. They are sold privately to someone close to the boat/owner if and when they do change hands.

We keep talking about how low the prices are on our Hatteri, but what we see is only those that get listed for sale. There are others that are so nice that when they change hands, it is truly a "private" sale.

 

[q240z]

Great job! She looks super! Congrats!

 

[DCMY #92]

Many months ago - maybe years - I mentioned I was having stainless steel replicas of the Hatteras Check logo made. The vendor that was to make them back then went south. Recently I found another vendor to make the logos. They arrived today and look great. The original plastic logo was 8" long and 3" high. I had these scaled down to 6" wide. They are water laser cut from 1/4" thick 316 SS with a "grain finish". I haven't decided yet, but I may mask them off and sandblast the area between the letters and the lower portion of the Check, but then again I may just leave them as is. I'll drill two counter sunk mounting holes for #4 screws.

 

[Garyd1]

Don't use mounting screws use the super strong very thin 3-m mounting polish tape (sticky both sides) put some pressure on them they will not come off.

 

[Garyd1]

A work of art awesome!

 

[DCMY #92]

Loose Change Update: The interior brightwork, cabinets, plumbing, etc. is now finished. We are currently taking care of mechanical work such as checking through hull fittings, rebedding as necessary, overhauling seacocks, removing internal main engine raw water strainers, installing wedge-type external strainers on all through hulls except the gen-set, and replacing all hoses and clamps - both raw water and coolant systems.

The 4.5" diameter SS risers on the 6V53 naturals (4 total) that I built myself about 1987 are long in the tooth. I've weld repaired cracks in them about every 10 years, so it's time for another go. They are getting so ragged, that I'm considering having new SS risers built by a professional. Does anyone have experience with Greenwater Marine Exhaust of Pickton, TX, or Marine Exhaust Systems of Riviera Beach, FL., or other recommendations of a welder who built you a custom riser?

 

[Paul Schlechter]

You might want to investigate Marine Manifolds in Farmingdale, NY. Owner's name is Paul. He made duplicate risers for my prior Atlantic 44 with twin Perkins 6.354's. Risers were of cupro-nickel and exact duplicates of originals. Necessary to send him originals.
Paul Schlechter
41 Double Cabin 1964

 

[DCMY #92]

Thanks - I've sent a request for a quote to Paul.

 

[DCMY #92]

Regarding manifold rebuild: I sent a request for pricing with photos of the old risers to 4 companies that advertise fabricating custom risers. I did not get a response from any of them. I don't know if something about my request caused them to think I was not serious, business is very good, or they only want to build standard designs and are not really able to build true "custom" risers.

The new risers will be completed by the end of February by a boiler maintenance contractor I sometimes collaborate with in my consulting business. These guys are real welders and have had a ball fabricating the risers. They look like jewelry. I'm going to the shop in New Hampshire week after next to finalize the location and orientation of the raw water inlet fittings.

 

[DCMY #92]

We are getting very close to splashing. Maybe in another couple of months. I've attached a photo of one of the new SS exhaust risers fabricated by a boiler repair company I sometime work with in my consulting business (Bremco in NH if you need any seriously good welding).

I've also attached a photo of the center engine room hatch. If you look close you'll see a gas strut support on the right side. This strut is unique (in my experience) in that it latches when in the fully raised position so the hatch can't suddenly close if the becomes weak over time. We've installed these struts on all engine room hatches. To close the hatch you tap the area where you see the yellow label with your foot to release the latch. The aluminum rod you see adjacent to the strut is a backup support rod.

Also attached is a photo of the port SS Hatteras Check logos I had made. There is an identical logo on the starboard side and in the cluster of instruments (parameter, thermometer, etc) in the saloon.

 

[Boatsb]

How long since you started. I remember this started a while back didnt it?

 

[DCMY #92]

August 2008

 

[drburke]

Nice! Can't wait for the report as you wrap things up.

DAN

 

[DCMY #92]

Time for an update: The exhaust flanges returned from Jet Hot today - see photo. They are coated on the inside and outside with their 1300 corrosion protection coating, then a coat of marine gold coating on the exhaust touched surfaces. Hopefully this coating will avoid ever having to find replacement exhaust flanges again. Based on the one new I bought from DDC a few months ago (they located 4 in Germany at almost $900 each) they seem to be getting rare.

Installing the new SS risers into the flanges and mounting them is the last significant work before splashing.

My 32 year old Jabsco 7" chrome remote control spotlight got less controllable a few weeks ago. A replacement drive uint is available at just under $400. I opted to by a new light (exactly like the original except only spot, not spot/flood) instead for just over $900. I'll probably never use it for spare parts, but I'm a pack rat by nature. I was pleasantly surprised that new light and parts are still available, although unreasonably pricey. I was even more surprised when West Marine had the lowest price on the new light.

Tuck Philips of TMS National is coming to town next Tuesday to survey Loose Change. I hope to splash within a few more weeks if my travel schedule doesn't get in the way.

 

[drburke]

The Jet Hot coating(s) look good--what did that cost if you don't mind me asking?

DAN

 

[DCMY #92]

The coating cost $35 per flange. The shipping and insurance cost as much as the coating. They turned them around in about 1 week.