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1965 41 DCMY Refit
- Thread starter DCMY #92
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DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
Time for another update on Loose Change. Work continues at a good pace, but since allot of man-hours are consumed with sanding and varnishing the interior the apparent results require a keen eye to appreciate. I've attached a few photos of the completed entertainment center.
The two upper doors on the lower section open downward and will contain the electronics. As you can see in the photos the curved side panels are hinged to open, both sides top and bottom. This provides access to bolts that secure the lower unit to the bulkhead and secure the swinging panel that holds the flat screen TV in the upper unit. These areas may be useful for storage of some charts as well.
Of course you can't tell from the photos, but all the doors uses hinges with with little hydraulic cylinders that close the door very slowly once started - like a Lexus cup holder lid. Very cool.
The electrical modifications are at the point where power is needed. So,today I delivered all new batteries to Rivolta. Six Trojan 435 amp-hour flooded batteries for the house bank and two 1750 CCA 8D starting batteries.
The material for the teak and holly floor has been ordered. Before the floor is installed I'm going to start up the engines. If any problems have developed during layup that require lifting them up into the saloon there is no point risking damage to the new floor. Running the engines in the shop should be interesting - and messy.
The two upper doors on the lower section open downward and will contain the electronics. As you can see in the photos the curved side panels are hinged to open, both sides top and bottom. This provides access to bolts that secure the lower unit to the bulkhead and secure the swinging panel that holds the flat screen TV in the upper unit. These areas may be useful for storage of some charts as well.
Of course you can't tell from the photos, but all the doors uses hinges with with little hydraulic cylinders that close the door very slowly once started - like a Lexus cup holder lid. Very cool.
The electrical modifications are at the point where power is needed. So,today I delivered all new batteries to Rivolta. Six Trojan 435 amp-hour flooded batteries for the house bank and two 1750 CCA 8D starting batteries.
The material for the teak and holly floor has been ordered. Before the floor is installed I'm going to start up the engines. If any problems have developed during layup that require lifting them up into the saloon there is no point risking damage to the new floor. Running the engines in the shop should be interesting - and messy.
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jim rosenthal
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2005
- Messages
- 11,050
- Hatteras Model
- 36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
What a great looking refit! Keep the photos coming. Can't wait to see her all done.
DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
The aft cabin bulkhead is veneer. The sidewalls are grain-matched mahogany 1/2" plywood.
The finish is many coats of wet-sanded phenolic varnish. I probably should have gone with urethane. It would have definitely been much less labor and probably would be more durable. But, old fashion varnish is the enemy I know.
DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
It's time for another update on the refit. We are now close enough to completion to predict a finish date. It's hoped we will splash in late April or May.
Some significant milestones were accomplished this week. Among them were firing up the Detroits and energizing the 12V portion of the new electrical panel, interior lighting, etc. I wanted to be sure there was no need for major engine work before the new salon floor is installed.
The engines (6V53 naturals) have not turned over 5 1/2 years. Ken Ruse, a masterful diesel mechanic and good friend, came over from Daytona to do the deed. Before Ken arrived I removed the raw water pumps, cleaned them up and installed new impellers. We had planned to temporarily feed water to the engines with a garden hose, but decided that since the raw water pumps were already off we would forgo the water since we didn't need to run but a few minutes to be sure all was well. I made cardboard accessory drive cover plates to keep the oil in where the pumps mount. This all worked well. Below is the basic procedure Ken used.
Ken first removed the valve covers to be sure all racks were free. He attached a small Vice Grip to one rack control tube to be a handle so he could have direct and precise control of the racks in spite of the governor's wishes. This way he could avoid the initial revving and rolling normally associated with startup and not let the racks advance beyond the speed he wanted in the event one were to stick. This is particularly important on these engines since they don't have emergency shut-off dampers.
After confirming the racks were free we cranked the engine over with the governor in the fuel-off position and throttle at idle until oil pressure was registered.
Next we put the governor in the run position and cranked again while Ken held the racks in the no-fuel position. He slowly advanced the racks with the Vice Grip handle until the engine began to fire. He slowly worked it up to idle speed, then released the Vice Grip when all seemed OK.
After cranking the port engine to get oil pressure with the governor in the no-fuel position we found the rack control tube frozen. Ken identified that the rack in the injector on the center-right bank cylinder was stuck solid. Ken replaced it with my spare and the engine ran well.
The starboard engine also had one injector rack stick after no-fuel cranking, but it mysteriously freed up and all acted normal after disconnecting the control tube from the governor linkage. This engine ran fine in the end and seems OK now.
Ken checked the coolant pH and both engines had very good readings (above 9.3). I've reinstalled the raw water pumps with new impellers (well lubricated with silicone grease). Before we splash I'm going to replace all engine hoses (raw water and coolant) with blue silicone and new clamps. I'm also going to replace both shaft log hoses and clamps as necessary.
Since these engines don't have emergency shut-off I've always been real careful with fuel quality and precisely following DDC's tune up procedures. Prior to this week I never had any issue with a stuck rack. However, this week's experience has really gotten my attention regarding the risk of a runaway. There is no room to install an emergency shutoff on the blower, so I'm going to install an emergency fuel shutoff valve between the secondary filter and engine. I prefer this to be a cable operated valve rather than electric. I've located the necessary cable, T-handle, and stainless bulkhead mount bezel, but I've not yet located a suitable cable operated valve. If anyone knows a source for such a valve I'd be glad to learn about it. If I can't find the right mechanical valve I'll use a solenoid valve.
Some significant milestones were accomplished this week. Among them were firing up the Detroits and energizing the 12V portion of the new electrical panel, interior lighting, etc. I wanted to be sure there was no need for major engine work before the new salon floor is installed.
The engines (6V53 naturals) have not turned over 5 1/2 years. Ken Ruse, a masterful diesel mechanic and good friend, came over from Daytona to do the deed. Before Ken arrived I removed the raw water pumps, cleaned them up and installed new impellers. We had planned to temporarily feed water to the engines with a garden hose, but decided that since the raw water pumps were already off we would forgo the water since we didn't need to run but a few minutes to be sure all was well. I made cardboard accessory drive cover plates to keep the oil in where the pumps mount. This all worked well. Below is the basic procedure Ken used.
Ken first removed the valve covers to be sure all racks were free. He attached a small Vice Grip to one rack control tube to be a handle so he could have direct and precise control of the racks in spite of the governor's wishes. This way he could avoid the initial revving and rolling normally associated with startup and not let the racks advance beyond the speed he wanted in the event one were to stick. This is particularly important on these engines since they don't have emergency shut-off dampers.
After confirming the racks were free we cranked the engine over with the governor in the fuel-off position and throttle at idle until oil pressure was registered.
Next we put the governor in the run position and cranked again while Ken held the racks in the no-fuel position. He slowly advanced the racks with the Vice Grip handle until the engine began to fire. He slowly worked it up to idle speed, then released the Vice Grip when all seemed OK.
After cranking the port engine to get oil pressure with the governor in the no-fuel position we found the rack control tube frozen. Ken identified that the rack in the injector on the center-right bank cylinder was stuck solid. Ken replaced it with my spare and the engine ran well.
The starboard engine also had one injector rack stick after no-fuel cranking, but it mysteriously freed up and all acted normal after disconnecting the control tube from the governor linkage. This engine ran fine in the end and seems OK now.
Ken checked the coolant pH and both engines had very good readings (above 9.3). I've reinstalled the raw water pumps with new impellers (well lubricated with silicone grease). Before we splash I'm going to replace all engine hoses (raw water and coolant) with blue silicone and new clamps. I'm also going to replace both shaft log hoses and clamps as necessary.
Since these engines don't have emergency shut-off I've always been real careful with fuel quality and precisely following DDC's tune up procedures. Prior to this week I never had any issue with a stuck rack. However, this week's experience has really gotten my attention regarding the risk of a runaway. There is no room to install an emergency shutoff on the blower, so I'm going to install an emergency fuel shutoff valve between the secondary filter and engine. I prefer this to be a cable operated valve rather than electric. I've located the necessary cable, T-handle, and stainless bulkhead mount bezel, but I've not yet located a suitable cable operated valve. If anyone knows a source for such a valve I'd be glad to learn about it. If I can't find the right mechanical valve I'll use a solenoid valve.
Steve Dashew has emergency fuel shut-offs that are cable operated on all of his yachts. Attached are two links to his pages that show but the fuel valve and the control which is mounted at the helm. Shoot them an e-mail and they would most likely be more than willing to help with what exactly they have installed and how they did it.
http://setsail.com/fire-suppression-controls/
http://setsail.com/remote-fuel-shut-off/
jim rosenthal
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2005
- Messages
- 11,050
- Hatteras Model
- 36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
Most beautiful floor I've ever seen in a Hatteras.
parcel88
Member
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2009
- Messages
- 5
- Status
- CAPTAIN
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
This is Hull # 101
Next year these 1965 DCMY's will be 50 years old. I have been putting in extra love into mine to get it ready for its big birthday.
1. Nu Teak Decking. http://www.nuteak.com/
2. New Salon Windows - Mark Plastics http://www.markplastics.com/.
3. New Brush on LP Paint (On the Front) - http://www.boatwork.us/
Note: The Painted Stantion Bases.
I am almost done with all of the work and once she is all cleaned up i will post more pictures. Meanwhile here is a teaser.
View attachment 15371View attachment 15372View attachment 15373
Next year these 1965 DCMY's will be 50 years old. I have been putting in extra love into mine to get it ready for its big birthday.
1. Nu Teak Decking. http://www.nuteak.com/
2. New Salon Windows - Mark Plastics http://www.markplastics.com/.
3. New Brush on LP Paint (On the Front) - http://www.boatwork.us/
Note: The Painted Stantion Bases.
I am almost done with all of the work and once she is all cleaned up i will post more pictures. Meanwhile here is a teaser.
View attachment 15371View attachment 15372View attachment 15373
Last edited:
Freeebird
Legendary Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,363
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
Missed this until now. She's really looking great!
DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
Update time again. We are getting very close now - I hope. I've attached few photos.
The V-berth hatch used to have an aluminum strip covering the joint between upper and lower fiberglass pieces that never fit well and corroded. Now there is a mahogany trim there.
All steps and stairs now have an aluminum bar imbedded in the mahogany to prevent shoes for touching and scratching the varnish. It's been working very well for several months. Also aluminum trim above the steps.
The aft head used to have a home-style medicine cabinet inserted into the wall. Now it is a custom built cabinet. The mirrored door is removed in this photo.
The V-berth hatch used to have an aluminum strip covering the joint between upper and lower fiberglass pieces that never fit well and corroded. Now there is a mahogany trim there.
All steps and stairs now have an aluminum bar imbedded in the mahogany to prevent shoes for touching and scratching the varnish. It's been working very well for several months. Also aluminum trim above the steps.
The aft head used to have a home-style medicine cabinet inserted into the wall. Now it is a custom built cabinet. The mirrored door is removed in this photo.
Attachments
DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
DCMY #92
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 855
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
Time for another update. The interior refit work is nearly complete. Glass tiles were installed for the galley backsplash last week. It took a while to find the right guy to do this install. Remaining interior work includes a few pieces of mahogany trim, a few more coats of varnish, and fine tuning of the new engine hatch fit-up. Remaining work mechanical work includes reinstalling rebuilt flexible shaft couplings and new shaft log hoses/clamps - new ElecraScan - and design/install new 12V electrical panel at the helm. After that, exterior paint touch up for 7 years of shop rash. Sounds line no more than another years work.
Here are a few recent photos.
Here are a few recent photos.
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