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1965 41 DCMY Refit

  • Thread starter Thread starter DCMY #92
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Details of the new Saloon A/C installation have come together. The horizontal box at the top (where the discharge grills are installed) is removable, as are the vertical interior panels. This permits use of the forward window openings (now solid panels) for getting the refrig, furniture, etc. into the the boat. The horizontal box with the grill openings will be varnished mahogany and meet the fore-aft mahogany upper sidewall valence boards at each side. The vertical panels will be upholstered to match the saloon upper sidewalls.

The evaporator goes in the new compartment at the top of the V Berth closet. The evaporator didn't need the entire width of the closet, so a tall-narrow storage space on the port side of the evaporator enclosure is accessed via a new cabinet door in the forward head.

I hope I got the new file attachment procedure right.
 

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Since the new refrig is 3" deeper than the old one, I'm concerned that even with the door off it may not fit through the front window opening. We have built a light weight 3 dimensional template of the regrig without its door to find out before the refit work in this area is finalized. I hope it's not necessary, but we can make the small shelf under the windshield (starboard side) removable if necessary to make the effective opening larger.

I mistakenly attached the template photo to the previous post. I've attached the Saloon A/C evaporator enclosure photo to this post.

The deeper refrg also required extending the Saloon bar top and port side 3" forward so that the refrig doesn't hang out into the galley. The starboard-lower-aft galley cabinet door also had to be moved forward 3" to clear the new refrig. It's a big pain that all the refrig manufacturers decided to make the 14 cu.ft. box a 15 cu ft. But, I'm very glad they did it now rather than after all this refit work is completed.
 

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Modification of the V Berth is now finished and only needs the new headliner and upholstery on the hull sides.

Originally the upholstery was applied directly to the hull sides with only a 1/4" layer of foam. This left the ports sitting proud on an upholstered oval ring about 3/4" thick.

The hull sides in the V Berth have had battens and new oval plywood rings added to support thin plywood panels away from the hull side. These panels will be upholstered. The space behind has been insulated. The ports will sit on 3/16" thick varnished mahogany oval rings. The perforated Nautalex headliner has been replaced with thin plywood panels with insulation behind. These panels will have the new headliner installed as a last step.
 

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I have a 1965 41DC as well - and I've been through many similar projects. One thing that I suggest you consider if you plan to spend a lot of time on board is a washer dryer combo. LG makes a 120V model that fits under kitchen counter tops. Washer and dryer combo unit! The unit (which is the size of a small washer) can fit in the front berth locker, and it would be very convenient!
 
We've owned this boat since '82 and lived aboard for many years. During her first refit we installed a stacked apartment size washer and dryer in the V berth closet. During her second refit (early '90s) we replaced that with a Splindide combo washer/dryer. While the Splindide is still in perfect condition, I removed it in the interest of reducing unnecessary weight.

I have now discovered that sagging of the galley/forward head floor and distortion of the V berth closet walls is due to placing the washer/dryer there. The combination of added weight (that Hatteras never anticipated in this location) and removal of the rear sidewall of the V berth closet (reducing stiffness of the structure) resulted in sagging of the floor in this area, mis-fit of the forward head door in its frame, and bulging of both sidewalls of the V berth closet.

We have repaired and stabilized all of this, but I have learned a lesson. Be very careful adding substantial loads to the interior where the designer didn't anticipate them.
 
Akin - I'm not suggesting that a washer/dryer is not worthwhile for long cruises or live a boards. I thought long and hard about removing the unit and doing without the convenience. I guess my point is that if I had known years ago what impact my actions would have on the structure I would have at lease added blocks between the floor support beams and the stringers, or otherwise reinforced the support beams to prevent load-related distortions.

By the way - the Splindide needs a new home.
 
I have a 1965 41DC as well - and I've been through many similar projects. One thing that I suggest you consider if you plan to spend a lot of time on board is a washer dryer combo. LG makes a 120V model that fits under kitchen counter tops. Washer and dryer combo unit! The unit (which is the size of a small washer) can fit in the front berth locker, and it would be very convenient!

what model is it?
 
Work continues on Loose Change. Varnishing of the new and modified interior mahogany is in progress. I've attached a photo of a miniature the carpenter made of the entertainment center planned for the aft saloon wall. This piece is now being fabricated.
 

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I am STILL interested in the Splendide
:confused:
 
Time for a progress report.

The new cabinet work for the flat screen TV (40" LCD/LED) and drawer/cabinet below the TV is almost complete. New mahogany valence boards have been fabricated above the saloon windows and across the front of the saloon ceiling. The work to relocate the saloon A/C evaporator is also complete. The finished height of the valence boards over the side windows has not yet been determined since we haven't settled on the window coverings that must hide behind these boards. I'll post some photos of all this soon.

Allot of time has been spent during the last couple of months varnishing the new interior mahogany. One of the grain matched drawer fronts in the new port-side saloon lower wall got damaged. After several attempts to replace the damage area with new veneer, Rivolta decided to replace the whole wall. This work is not yet completed. The new L-shaped port-side couch, port-side lower saloon wall, and starboard-side lower saloon wall were constructed to be removable without damaging the finish or needing to remove/replace/refinish bungs that hide screws. This is to provide future access to deck hardware through-bolts and backing plates, hoses, etc. that are located behind the walls. It's a pretty cleaver arrangement and looks great.

The electrician has routed new wiring to all the locations that will get new LED lights. He has also installed new 12VDC switches for the LED lights. When we're done, all lights (nav and interior) will be 12VDC LED. The all new 120VAC and 12VDC breaker/meter panel has been designed and ordered. The 120VAC breakers are now arranged to segregated the inverter circuits and include the A/C circuits in the main panel. They were previously in a separate panel in the starboard-side book case. The rotary shore power switches have been eliminated and replaced with mechanically interlocked main breakers. The total number of AC and DC breakers has been increased (plus spares) to include separate breakers for all the equipment on board. Before, many items added since Hatteras built her were ganged up on the few existing breakers. Amazingly, the new AC and DC panels will fit into the original space. To accomplish this access to the back of the panel will be from the rear via the master stateroom closet. The original panel front was hinged and required some wiring to be flexible. Rear-access simplifies the wiring and saves space. This closet already has a hinged rear wall exposing the rear of the breaker panel. The new shore power cord retractor is installed, wired and tested.

We elected to use high pressure laminate on the horizontal cabinet surfaces to save weight and facilitate reusing the original mahogany fiddles. We are also using high pressure laminate for the walls and ceilings in both heads. These laminates are ordered and the walls prepared for their installation. The galley, saloon, and forward head counter surfaces are prepped for laminate, but the aft head counter and cabinet work must be reworked to fit a new sink and faucet. This cabinet will also get mahogany veneer (varnished) rather than painting it like the original. Likewise, the cabinet base in the forward head gets varnished veneer.
 
Sounds great. More pics?
 
Time for another update on Loose Change. Work has been intermittent for the past several months. Rivolta sold and constructed two new 45s so much of the labor force was pulled off Loose Change per our agreement. Most recently they are putting the priority on finishing the 50ft prototype sailboat mentioned early in this thread.

Obtaining mahogany veneer of sufficient quality and good grain pattern/color has been a real pain. Six matched sheets from a new supplier arrived last week, so I'm hoping it will get us moving toward completion of the saloon bulkheads and sidewalls.

The high pressure laminate (bright white with vertical striations - looks sort of like white silk) is installed on the forward head walls and overhead - as is the mahogany veneer on the sink/mirror cabinet. The high pressure laminate (navy blue) is also installed on horizontal surfaces of the galley, forward head, bar, and shelf under the forward windshield.

The galley cabinets and entertainment center are completed (including varnish) but not fully assembled. The galley assembly awaits me remembering to deliver the new sink fixtures and decide how we wish to mount the upper cabinet doors. The upper portion of the entertainment center won't be assembled and installed until the aft saloon bulkhead veneer is installed and finished. The lower portion won't be assembled and installed until the teak and holly floor is installed (probably the last activity). The lower cabinet is mounted on concealed casters so it can be easily rolled forward for access to the engine room hatch on which it sits (above the starboard gear). The casters will run in concealed tracks so it always returns to the exact position. It is secured to the aft saloon bulkhead with concealed bolts.

Relocation of the saloon A/C evaporator with its new duct work, cabinet work, etc. is completed. Except for running new freon and water lines. I plan to wait until we splash and have the A/C tech do this when he recommissions the unit.

All new electrical wiring, switches, plugs, and the 50A cord retractor are installed. All switches and plugs have been installed in wall boxes rather than just mounted in holes cut in the wall per original construction. The new main electrical panel has arrived, but is not yet installed. The electrician must first be pried off of other work. There are a couple of sub-panels for electronics and accessories to yet be installed at the helm. It just occurred to me that I don't know if the new LED light fixtures have arrived - need to check on that.

The house batteries (new just before the refit started) have died. All 4 cases started bulging upward around the positive terminal. The Xantrex has been on the entire time and water levels routinely maintained. These batteries are now about 5 years old so their failure is right on schedule. Not all is lost here since I need to remove them and move their box (actually a well in the engine room sole) aft a few inches to make room for Soundown on the forward engine room bulkhead. While I'm at it I think I'll install a permanent hard-point under the saloon sole above the batteries so I can use a small block and tackle or hoist to lift them from their well. Each of the 4 batteries weights 99 lbs.

I'm planning to have Rivolta build a new teak swim platform the same shape as the original, but with slightly different positioning of the open spaces between boards to fit the Snap-davit mounts and transom ladder better than the original. The original platform is still serviceable, but has worn down to where most of the bungs over its screws have gone away. I think it will take almost as much labor to remove the screws, countersink the holes, and install new bungs than it will to build a new platform.

I'm also considering having the aft deck covered with one of the imitation teak products suitable for outdoor use. I am tired of putting up with carpet in the aft deck. Any suggestions on this are welcome.

Significant work remaining:
  • Installation of new plumbing fixtures in galley, forward and aft head.
  • Lining of shower walls (haven't decided on 1/4" Corian or light-weight plastic sheet - suggestions and opinions welcome)
  • Installation of high pressure laminate on walls, overhead, and counter top in aft head.
  • Installation of A/C duct in aft head (can't find a way to route A/C directly to the aft head - plan to install a small quiet blower to take air from the saloon and push it into the aft head).
  • Installation of new electrical panels and LED light fixtures
  • Installation of vinyl material on upper saloon and V-berth walls
  • Installation of vinyl headliner
  • Installation of teak and holly floor
  • Selection and installation of saloon window coverings (then finalize height of and finish saloon upper side valence boards)
  • Selection and installation of galley backsplash (considering small colored glass tiles)
  • Complete installation of Soundown on engine room forward and aft bulkheads
  • Replace house batteries (late activity)
  • Replace main engine and gen-set raw water pump impellers and fuel filters (late activity)
  • Recommission saloon A/C unit

I'll post more photos when I have a chance to visit the boat.
 
If you look way back to page 4 of this thread you will see a photo of the beginnings of a mold plug for a prototype 50 foot sailboat Rivolta began in January 2009. Well, she is finally finished. I've attached a few photos of Vintage. It was interesting to see this boat come together over the last 3 1/2 years. Now that the two 45 Coupes and this sailboat are finished and shipped, work begins in earnest to complete Loose Change.
Sailboat 2 low res.webpSailboat 1 low res.webpSailboat 3 low res.webp
 
Interesting blowboat. Mix of new tech with old style. Double rudders and a bulbous keel. It looks really short, so I'm assuming it retracts.
 
Yes, the keel retracts on two large hydraulic rams. All that exterior teak brightwork is intimidating to contemplate maintaining. Rivolta uses clear Awlcraft on the interior and exterior. They say it has never failed on any of their boats. However, I'm sticking with good old fashion phenolic varnish on Loose Change. I'm afraid of what I'll have to go through if there were a failure of the clear urethane.
 
Interesting info on the clear. I have very little brightwork but I'm always looking to find a way to make it look good without burning too much boat time on maintenance.

BTW, I haven't chimed in here in a while but I want to thank you for taking us along on the journey. It's been interesting and informative. Please keep up the good work.
 
Another update on Loose Change's refit. The carpenter that has worked primarily on Loose Change for the last 2 years building furniture, relocating the saloon A/C, rebuilding the galley, forward head, etc has been laid off. The 2 long-term carpenters that rebuilt the saloon sole structure, new engine hatches, and sound proof air inlet trunks have taken over. They moved Loose Change from the end bay that has been her home for 4 1/2 years to the center bay with work platforms adjacent to the wood shop. I've attached a couple of photos of her in her new location. In the front view you can see the mockup of the new refrigerator on the floor below the bow. This was used to fine tune the galley rebuild to ensure the larger fridge will fit. In the aft view you can see the new dive platform ladder steps, the 50A cord retractor fitting, the old electrical panel, and other bits and pieces. The new dive platform is finished and installed, but it's covered by cardboard in this photo.

I've also attached a photo of the V-berth's forward bulkhead with its new mahogany veneer and frame around the anchor locker hatch. You can also see some of the furring strips and thermal insulation installed on the hull sides.

Work completed since my last update includes completing the forward head, with the exception of the new floor and toilet. Engine room soundproofing is complete. The aft saloon bulkhead has been veneered and varnished. The new saloon sidewalls' varnish is also complete. All handrail and life-line stanchions have been removed and rebedded. All stanchion and deck fitting nuts and backing plates can be accessed for future maintenance.

There is one more structural issue to resolve as a result of Hatteras's construction methods. I've attached a photo of the aft cabin sole between the aft head rear bulkhead and the starboard fuel tank. The small red arrow indicates the location of the stringer on which the sole rests. The blue arrow shows the inboard front corner of the 150 gallon starboard fuel tank. The yellow arrow shows where the splice between two sections of sole has failed and allowed the fuel tank and aft head bulkhead to sag about 1/2". The plan is to fabricate a mini-stringer to support the sole, bulkhead, and fuel tank at this location. We'll also install larger access hatches for the intermediate strut through-bolts while we are cutting up this part of the sole for this repair.

I expect theView attachment 12515View attachment 12514View attachment 12516 carpenters to complete the work up forward next, then complete the saloon, then rework the aft head. This work will include a new built-in-plance fiberglass shower liner. I had planned to line the shower with plastic sheet or Corian, but decided an integral fiberglass liner is less likely to leak later.

I'll post more photos as areas get cleaned up completed.
 
I think I hosed up attaching the photos. Click on the "attachment text" in the last paragraph and photos will open.
 
I think I hosed up attaching the photos. Click on the "attachment text" in the last paragraph and photos will open.

I can't get the attachments to work.
 

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