Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

bilge heaters vs. block heaters

  • Thread starter Thread starter holtcl
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 42
  • Views Views 17,462

holtcl

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
666
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' EXTENDED DECKHOUSE (1983 - 1988)
Question: A couple years ago I had block heaters installed (the kind that probe into the engine) and really only have used them to "pre-heat" the boat for cold starts in cold weather.

I'm trying to plan for this winter season and wondering if folks run block heaters "continually" (mine do not have thermostats) to keep engine rooms and their associated equipment from freezing. OR is it better to get one of those "boatsafe"- type heaters?

I was amazed at how warm it was in the ERs after running the block heaters in the cold weather last year. But I hadn't thought about running them in a continuous fashion, due to potential for engine damage (?).

I don't care to actually winterize.

Cheryl
Cinderella
1971 53 MY
 
When we had our engines surveyed, they recommended Tstats on the block heaters. We have yet to put them in but having moved to SWFl we have no need for them any more.
If you are up on the hard, I would challenge heating them at all. But in the water I would say sure since you probably have adequate power available until there is a power outage.
Depending on your location Winterizing is cheap insurance.
 
I winterize my engines around the first of December each year. I have fitted, insulated covers with rubber gaskets that snap tightly on the ER vents on the hulls sides to keep the wind out. I have 250 watt Wolverine oil pan pad heaters, one on each engine that I leave on 24/7/365. Even on the coldest day with the marina basin frozen over I never saw less than 40 degrees on the engineroom thermometer.
 
I leave the oil pan heaters on all winter long. They are on now, as a matter of fact. I also winterize the engines, the generator set, the fresh water system, the AC systems, the head, and the bilge pumps. Of course, she is out of the water all winter, beginning November. And under her winter cover as well.

I think you are making a mistake by not winterizing, since you brought it up. You have the risk of the engines being damaged from freezing, if the power goes off. Flushing the seawater side of the heat exchangers, pumps, etc, is not difficult- and then the engines sit with clean antifreeze in that circuit all winter long. Instead of Bay water etc. If you have the misfortune to have a hard freeze and the power off at the same time, the damage to your boat could be catastrophic. It could also sink you. I would not take that chance.

I installed winterizing Tees in the incoming sea water lines years ago. I shut the sea cock off, unscrew the plug in the winterizing Tee, screw in the adapter and hose, and put it into a bucket. I have a fresh water hose in the bucket and I usually run 3-4 bucketfuls of fresh water through each engine. Even at idle, the engines empty a bucket in about twenty seconds. Then I put in five gallons of pink antifreeze and run until the bucket is empty. By that time it's coming out the tailpipe. Any water that's gotten into the mufflers and tailpipes runs out when she's lifted for haulout. I grease the plug, with trailer wheel bearing grease, and screw it back in. Once she's out of the water, I open all the sea cocks so that they are free of water that might freeze in them and burst them during a hard freeze.

I realize you are on your boat all the time, but it's worth it to think about situations where you might NOT be on your boat, and she might be at the mercy of cold weather AND a power outage in the bargain. That would be a bad combination, and one we've seen fairly often around here.

As far as the block heaters go, you could put them on timers or thermostats without difficulty. But I still think you should winterize your engines.
 
FWIW - If they are in-block heaters, they are likely at least 1000W heaters. The ones in our engines are 1500W each. So that's a LOT of power to be using. Obviously, T stats will reduce the 24 hour power draw but it's still going to be a good bit of power, in our case, around 25 A whenever they are on. If you are on the boat, there is a fair chance that you could trip a 50A breaker quite easily just doing normal stuff on the boat, especially when you consider that you will probably be using some sort of electrically-powered space heaters. Also, consider that the water heater will be cycling periodically - probably another 1500+ watts. Then there's the microwave/stove... I see a lot of breaker-tripping!

However, you are fairly close to the head of the dock so it's not a long walk to reset the breaker! :)

IMO, in-block heaters (unless they are very low power) are not suitable for what you are wanting to do simply because of the practical side of supplying power to them WHILE you also have to power the devices needed to support "daily life" with a 50A service.
 
Mine are 1000 watts each and I never tripped a breaker. I plug them into a digital wall thermostat that maintains the engine rooms at 50°. The blocks stay at 70 to 80 and the heaters come on intermittently. There is no condensation.
 
And if you are NOT a liveaboard, then not winterizing your boat is insane, plain and simple. No offense to present company but you have GOT to winterize her. We have had some serious weather around here in the last few years and much of it has coincided with conditions in which you really would not want to be driving around, or walking on icy docks.
 
Who pays for the electricity? 1kw to 3kw continuous adds up over time.
 
I like to run the boat all year. I live aboard so that helps.

The block heaters are much more efficient than the forced air wall heaters. It gets down to 0 degrees here but the water temp stays above freezing.

I've been unwilling to trust winterizing a vessel that stays in the water. What if a seacock freezes?

With the blocks at 80 degrees it would probably take 24 hours for the ERs to reach freezing in a power failure. Time to exercise the generator anyway.

.
 
I kept the block heaters on all the time during the winter when not running the boat. I stuffed up the ER vents when not running the boat and left the ER doors open. It kept the lower level dry and toasty. We were living aboard, and it reduced how much we ran the reverse cycle heat. I was also told by a mechanic as well as Roger Wethrington that keeping them on also benefitted the engines by reducing the swings in temperature. We had ZeroStart immersion heater equipped with immersion thermostats, 100 degree as i recall.
 
Thanks for all this great information. This is very helpful.

I believe my block heaters are 1000w. Perhaps I should look into the thermostats. I don't plan to live on the boat this winter but I tend to be there frequently doing work or hanging out.

So most of the responses were about winterizing vs. not, which is helpful. My original questions involved 1) can I run my block heaters continuously; and 2) which would be better, to run the block heaters or to use a boatsafe-type heater, for winter heating.

Another reason I'm reluctant to winterize is it's not just the engines and generator, but I'm told also the water system, a/c's, and toilets would need winterizing if I don't run heat; and I've always run heat in the winter. Other considerations for me include:

1. I don't know how winterize any of these systems
2. I am close by and tend to check on the boat in cold weather
3. I believe I have folks on the dock who can advise me in the event of a power outage

It's a lot to chew on but I'd like to be prepared when the time comes this season.

Cheryl
 
I don't think a Boatsafe heater will adequately protect all of your boat. That's the problem. I don't even think that leaving the 1000w block heaters on ALL the time (which you wouldn't do, anyway) would protect your boat. Even heating the interior of the boat to fifty degrees ALL the time doesn't necessarily protect you in a hard freeze. Even with the power on, the boat can get cold enough to freeze water lines and then they will burst. And some of them are hard to get to.

I taught myself how to winterize my boat. I have had exactly one problem over the years- a burst water line caused by my not getting all the water out of the freshwater inlet line, where I connect to dock water. I didn't use a big enough air compressor.

Here's what I would suggest: pay someone to winterize your boat, but WATCH them do it and take photos if you think you can't remember how to do it all. BoatUS publishes winterizing instructions, and there are plenty of books on engine care that will guide you also.

By systems (this is only what I do- other people, many of whom are far more expert than I am, will have advice as good or better on how to do this):

Freshwater: Run the tank dry. Drain the water heater and bypass it. Use an air compressor to blow all the lines out. If you have two freshwater inlets, you will need to do them both. Put pink antifreeze in the water tank and run it through to all faucets, showers, outlets etc.

Heads etc: I don't know what your boat has- maybe GMs? I don't know much about them, but essentially what you do is empty the treatment systems, and then Tee into the toilet water supply lines and flush pink AF through all the lines and the toilets themselves. Including the treatment systems, whatever they are.

AC systems: You can either drain the seawater sides of all the systems, or flush pink AF through them. Mine drain by gravity. I shut the sea cock off, and drain the system by opening the drain plug to the seawater strainer. That drains the entire seawater circuit by gravity. Other people flush pink AF through the system; I used to do that on mine, but since I can drain it dry by gravity I don't anymore.

Bilge pumps: I have one Jabsco diaphragm pump which I flush with pink AF. The rest are centrifugal pumps which don't need winterizing as the boat is out of the water with the bilge drain plug pulled.

Generator: since you are only winterizing the engine, it's similar to doing the drive engines.

Other things: since it gets cold in the boat, leaving all the lockers open, and having a fan running in the boat is useful. Those low-wattage heat sticks are useful- if you wanted to put Boatsafe heaters in to keep the damp at bay, that's good, too. Covering the engine room air intakes is essential. You might even invest in a set of oil pan heaters just for winter use. About 250-500 watts per engine ought to be enough. (Wolverine heaters, they are very reliable and work great)

The first year you do this is by FAR the most difficult. That's when you have to figure out what works best for your boat. Fortunately there are a lot of 53MYs around with the same equipment as yours, so you aren't along on this. And I suspect you've tackled more difficult projects than this. You should be able to get through it in a weekend, I would think.

And DON'T buy your pink AF at WM. They charge more than anyone else does. Get it at the hardware store- this will involve a few runs to Ace, I imagine. It takes me about 12-15 gallons to do my boat, but yours is much larger and it will take more. Regardless, it is very cheap insurance when you begin looking at replacing things like engines, heat exchangers, etc. Or the trouble of finding ruptured copper pipes in a forty-year old boat, leaking in places you can't get to without sawing a hole in something.

One more suggestion: if you are not living on the boat, you can divide this up into a series of problems, instead of trying to do it all at once. It is unlikely we will get a hard freeze before December at the earliest, so if you started this month, and worked on it one system at a time, you could learn as you go and by the end of the season have everything done and photos etc to show you how to do it next year, if you want to do it all yourself.
 
Last edited:
I've been unwilling to trust winterizing a vessel that stays in the water. What if a seacock freezes?

My boat is in the water all year round and I usually run an ice-eater for at least two months of the winter. If you're winterizing correctly your seacocks are winterized too.
 
My boat is in the water all year round and I usually run an ice-eater for at least two months of the winter. If you're winterizing correctly your seacocks are winterized too.

Just let it idle and there's no need to winterize.
 
Fair enough. She might need to visit the fuel dock a few times, though.
 
Good points Jim,

I guess I've just been overwhelmed thinking about doing all this, which is a little silly given all the other work I've done on the boat over the years.

The past two years with the cold we've had I've had to repair water system leaks in the spring even with, I thought, meticulously running heat in all areas of the boat. Last year was the worst. I had forgotten the supply lines to the washer/dryer. Had to repair both of them.

Sounds like maybe I should take a deep breath and start making up a plan.

Cheryl
 
I certainly would. It isn't difficult work, there's just a lot of it. If you split it up into systems it is manageable.
 
My boat is in the water all year round and I usually run an ice-eater for at least two months of the winter. If you're winterizing correctly your seacocks are winterized too.

I'll bite: how do you winterized a seacock?
 
They're shut off and the inlet is below water enough to protect it. The outlet and cooling system is filled with antifreeze. It does not need to be full orf antifreeze .


In severe conditions I know some people wrap them in pipe heat tape just in case.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,740
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom