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Painting saga about to begin

jim rosenthal

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
11,050
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
Moved Blue Note to a covered slip today, due for a wash within a day or two, and then the job begins. If she comes out half decent, I will post pictures, otherwise nothing but complaints. I know that's hard to believe from me, but get used to it.
 
Awh come on, show us pics in process so we can see what is in store for us neophytes
 
Who is doing the painting?

Bobk
 
Had Blue Chip painted just over 2 years ago. As I suspect you have, I did extensive research on the options from a DYI roller/brush tipping, to mobile crews that do their spray painting outdoors under a boat shed, to crews that just do the job under the sun and rain, to rented buildings using a mobile crew, to a full yard job with the right equiptment and skills. I even followed a 58 LRC being done out under the sun and rain at Jarrett Bay, by a mobile crew brought in by the LRC owner.

My conclusion was that painting a boat is one of the rare exceptions in life where the more expensive approach is actually worth what it costs plus some, and the less expensive approaches are worth less than you spend. It is also one of the situations in life that if done to less than your satisfaction, correction is very costly.

I have a suggestion. Jarrett Bay is not that far from you, but far enough to be out of the high rent district. Give them a call, and get an idea of what they can do for you at North Carolina prices, and Jarrett Bay quality. BTW, other than being a very satisfied customer, I have no connection with Jarrett Bay.

Pete
 
I appreciate that, but it's getting done here. By me. If we had a yard around here as reliable as JB, with reasonable prices, I'd do it, but I am not moving the boat to JB. It will get done by me, for better or for worse, by hand, and at least I will know who to yell at when something doesn't come out right. I am thoroughly disgusted with all the moody artist types up here who work on boats when they damn please, promise things they can't deliver, and generally screw around with everything. If I treated my patients like that, I'd spend the year in court and I'd deserve it. If not in jail.
 
I am thoroughly disgusted with all the moody artist types up here who work on boats when they damn please, promise things they can't deliver, and generally screw around with everything. If I treated my patients like that, I'd spend the year in court and I'd deserve it. If not in jail.

One can tell you are a long time boat owner by above statement. All the Best and God Bless - Scott.
 
Have you talked to Art Cox at Anchor Bay East in Dundalk? I have seen a gorgeous 53MY they repainted, as well as a large Californian. They re-did a huge scratch put in the side of my boat by an errant sail boat's pulpit, perfectly. See if he has the same crew as 3 years ago. His costs are very competitive with JB's, and as a frequent flyer at JB, I can attest his quality is at least every bit as good. Your boat would fit in his shed. When the time comes to repaint my boat, he is the first call I'll make, followed by Thunderbolt in Savannah and Atlantic Yacht Basin in Great Bridge, both of whose work I have also witnessed either through direct experience or observation.

I found Art to be a straight shooter. At least see if he has some advice for you. The PO of my boat used to keep it next door to Washburn's in Solomons and always made the trip up to B'more to have Art work on stuff (or at least when Norm Richter wasn't available).
 
Jim,

You definitely sound like a man with a plan. Having owned boats for some 40 years, over 30 of which have been Hatteras brand, I have experiences like yours that make me a DIY, whenever I can.

Best of luck with your project, and please pictures and more pictures.

Pete
 
Began today, by removing hardware etc. Starting with aft bulkhead- taking the rails off and starting sanding tomorrow. I ordered a Fein vac, something I've needed for a while, but it won't be here until next week so I will use a vacuum sander and a shop vac until it arrives. Got some good suggestions from various friends- finish each section before moving on to the next, which is excellent advice. So here we go.
 
Start, progress and finished pictures would be great!
Good luck. I am thinking of a repaint of the hull topsides and like the other members posting here, your progress and SUCCCESS will be interesting.

Thanks.
 
Jim, Baby Grand is still mostly original (1977) paint. I have used an artist airbrush with good results to re-spray Imron on small areas like the toe rails, knee boards etc. Also used a small trim gun to do the "eyebrow" over the front window. Cockpit door is next, then deck which I would like to roll if I can. Someone here mentioned a way to mix/roll Imron. I'm still learning how to spray and am reluctant to do large vertical surfaces.

Will be very interested in following your progress and learning what I can from your experience.
Watch the fumes. I used breathing air most all the time even though it was dock side work at home.

Good Luck and please share the good and the bad. Not only are you faster, now you will be shinier!

Best Regards, Bob K
 
Highlight of the day was finding my Fein MultiTool hiding in the trunk of my car, where of course I'd put it and forgot it. Better than buying a new one! I have to work Sunday, but I'll be back at this Monday; even if the weather is rainy I can still sand under the shed there, which is nice. My plan is to sand, prime as needed, resand and paint each section; on the advice of an experienced friend, I am NOT going to sand the whole boat first. I am also going to leave the decks for last, since I'll be carrying tools etc on and off the boat for a while. So all the vertical sections will get done first, and lastly the areas that get walked on.

This isn't impossible, it's just lengthy. I keep telling myself that. Maybe I will even believe it at some point.
 
make sure you have plenty of fresh air.. imron is deadly if not used properly. a friend of a friend of mine died from too much skin absorption of imron. he didn't use the tyvek suits that they recommend when spraying.
 
Thanks. I am sorry about your friend. I am not spraying it, but rolling/brushing it. And I WILL use a proper mask. Which, on my face, is an improvement. I might just leave it on. :)
 
Spent most of today sanding, when I wasn't running back and forth for tools etc. With luck, I might get some primer on in the next few days. I forgot that much of the early part of any job is bringing all the tools you forgot over to where you are working. And, of course, buying new ones that you didn't realize you needed. Etc.

She's in C20 if anyone wants to stop by and help........:)
 
Jim,

I just re-read this thread and didn't see mention of what paint you are using. I assume Algrip as it is the easiest to roll. That said, how do you plan to apply primer? Algrip 545 is almost impossible to flow out properly with brush and roller. Small sections can be sprayed easily with a Prevail cannister.

Good luck,

Bobk

PS, Rick Nordhof in Rock Hall does great roll/tip work if you get into trouble.
 
I AM using 545, I will try a PreVal as you said. I don't have a lot of areas to prime, though. Most of this is just 320 sanding the AwlGrip that's on there, to provide an adhesion surface for the new paint.
 
Some progress, although not enough for photos. But I did get all the teak plugs glued in, sawed and chiseled off flush, and sanded. Also caulked the window glass to the frame. I did this before varnishing the teak, figuring that to keep water out, the seal needs to be the caulking to the wood, not caulking to varnish, which will lift and leak. I hope this works.

Next step is 545 primer, and then 320 sanding of that, to try to get to an even finish to roll AG onto. And if that comes out well, photos will be put up......

I continue to be amazed at the Fein MultiMaster tool. It's hard to imagine how any woodworker or marine paint/finish worker could do without one of these. Esp since cheap knock-offs of it are now available. It's really an amazing little item.

Today is the first day that the back bulkhead looked better, not worse. Each day of the last week or so, things looked more grim each day. It's nice to drive away from the boat feeling like things actually improved rather than the other way around.
 
I don't even try to brush out the 545 primer and I don't thin it much either. I would just put it on with a foam roller wait for the solvents to flash off maybe an hour then roll on some more. Get a good build then sand smooth. It drys to fast to roll and tip.
 

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