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Your Best Addition/Modification

  • Thread starter Thread starter JLR
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This years improvments (in my oppinion) to our boat were:
1. installed a modified domestic air conditioning unit to the salon. (works and looks great)
2. installed a water maker.
3. installed a custom made, permanet bimini top to the aft deck overhang/ boat deck.
4. installed new enclosures on the bridge as well as the aft deck.
5. replaced hoist lift cable to stainless steel

Last years improvements were:
1. re did master room from two double berths to a centerline queen and new cabenetry.
2. installed a new washer/dryer combo

On my to do list are:
1. cockpit door
2. fuel polishing system
3. convert interior lights to LED lighting
4. major full body wax job. (the boat, not me)

Oh yeah I forgot that year before last we installed a new generator. The genny was installed across the forward area of the gen room opening up tons of space and making battery service a breeze as opposed to laying over the old gen location to get to the starboard battery bank.
 
Pictures boys I wanna see some PICS Mario just one or two please lol. C'mon pics worth a thousand words. Someone told me that once. lol
 
I also meant to add that I got rid of the red headed step child (20KW Kohler) which had no starter and used the 32V bank to start and replaced it with a new 20 KW Kohler that not only reduced a lot of weight but also is whisper quiet and -dare I tempt fate-starts easily every time. I also moved into the 21st century and away from my tried and true triad of Furuno, Northstar and Robertson and added at each station on each boat a Garmin 3206 Chartplotter. I do not use it to feed information to my autopilot--I still rely on the Northstars for that, but the bright large screen which shows by arrow the actual course I am headed on is a tremendous addition as is its use to display my CCTV cameras when on board. They are also great for displaying a trip odometer and total trip odometer--something that for some reason, the Northstars do not display. That reeally helps with analyzing my fuel usage and any problem or dirty bottom I may have. I also had fabricated a box near the helm which displays the fuel and water level of each tank so no more need to climb on the bed in the aft stateroom or open the floor up between the engine rooms. One more thing- I added a digital meter by the helm that reads the voltage, wattage, amperage and frequency of my electrical power which helps me determine when to use the transformer boost taps I added down below to increase the juice. Just some more ideas worth sharing--at least I hope so.
 
I've been away working pretty much since I bought my 46c so I have not had the chance to do much to her yet but the single best improvement I did on my rebuilt 1967 26' Algas SF was to install a remote controlled anchor windlass. That really opened up a whole new way of boating. I found myself dropping the hook more often and relaxing just because it was so easy and fast. For long runs I would chain off the anchor and if it was windy I would cleat off the rode but for most coastal cruising/puttering I kept the anchor ready to drop and enjoyed the hell out of it.
I will do the same on the Hatt
Geo
 
I think the single best modification I have added was a set of Racor Marine LG100 Fuel/Air Separators. These go in the diesel fuel tank vent lines in the engine room and keep fuel from burping over the side when filling. Before these I usually had a tiny trickle of diesel exiting my vents, followed by a cup or so of diesel foam when each tank filled. This would get me in big trouble today!

The separators have a bulblike chamber with a fine mesh screen which strains out the bubbles and returns the fuel to the tank. There is a built-in relief valve set for about 1 1/2 psi, and if fuel pressure exceeds this they will discharge fuel overboard, but this lets the fuel level come to the tops of my fills. This has really reduced spillage over the years. I have had them for more than 20 years during which they have needed no service. Highly recommended.
 
Hi Fanfare - Interesting about Racor Marine LG100 Fuel/Air Separators, never knew what they did until now. Question - In NY the fuel pump nozzles are not allowed to have that little latch you flip down on fuel pump handle for hands free filling. As result, I usually jam the well worn bottle of 2-stroke oil the gas dock attendant gives me for just such purposes. I usually let each tank fill about 75% of what I think it will take then do the rest manually, looking for the vent to spit some diesel. One time I was bs'ing at front of boat with attendant while filling this way and looked back to see a diesel geyser from overfill (next to unattended Coast Guard boat no less, by the grace of God go I!) so don't have faith in nozzles shutting off like they should (like at regular car gas station nozzle).

As result, wondering with a LG100 in place if only way you know it's full is when Fuel Nozzle automatically 'clicks' off since the LG100 appears to eliminate all the tell-tale signs coming from the vent?
 
To refuel, I first check my Floscans to see what I have used. Then I prop the delivery handle open with something and watch the meter until I get within about 30 gallons of the expected amount. Then I listen to the fuel fill pipe as I fill. My ear is within two feet of the fill cap. I probably have about 12 ft of hose from the fill down to the tank, and it is 2-2.5 in. diameter. As this hose begins to fill, I hear a sound like a subway car approaching. The hose acts like an organ pipe, as it fills from the bottom (effectively gets shorter)the frequency of the echo goes up. As soon as I hear the approaching whoosh I stop and let the foam subside. If I need a precise fuel measure, I add another gallon or two until I can see the foam down the hose. That's full. Zero the Flowscans and I'm done. In order to hear this well it is necessary to turn off my AC circulating pump, which exits nearby. I also have to wait for outboards and aircraft to pass by. And don't talk to me!

The diesel hose will sometimes shut off automatically, but not always. I try to stay within a few feet of the fuel handle in case of overflow. It's not just environmentally correct, it's big $$$ at these prices! If I do this right, I don't spill a drop. (Much to the irritation of the water cop I once found standing behind me with his ticket book in his hand. I had been concentrating so much on the sound I had no idea he was there. )
 
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Prior owner's get credit for these but I would not have a boat without them:

1. Dual Racors on each engine valved so when one is dirty I can flip a valve to the other one. No changing Racors underway.

2. A/C fresh water pump with 32 volt backup.

3. Airconditioning system drawing from two thru hulls with separate raw water pumps and a third raw water pump valved to replace either of the others when they decide to die in the middle of a hot steamy night. (I actually did the 3d pump).

4. Head Hunter head system. The only way to go.

5. Next project -- Back up generator.

6. KVH satellite television with 52 inch screen and surround sound. I love my prior owner for spending ridiculous money on this little pleasure.

Interestingly I read an article about a 62 Hampton with same number of beds and heads as mine. The article raved about the redundant features like I have on my 1986. The difference is that the Hampton is new and costs $3.2 million base price and I bought mine for about a tenth of that.

Bruce
Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY
Tampa
 
1) 16K BTU Mermaid reverse cycle AC in engine room
2) Steelhead four function hydralic crane for launching and retrieving the tender
3) Replaced teak in bow pulpit with fiberglass and non skid matching the decks
4) Replaced the teak around the transom door opening with fiberglass
5) Replaced original mufflers with Vernatone double lift style

Pete
 
I am trying to keep this thread going as winter is fast approaching up north and I need some neat ideas for winter projects. With that said, my latest and greatest addition to my 43 Open was the installation of a footrest on my tower. It transformed a standing platform with a somewhat usable bench seat into a place where I can run the boat with great visibility and full instrumentation while seated with my feet supported by the footrest. I went to the original fabricator of the tower and got a matching piece bent just right. It sure came in handy when I spent 14 hours on the tower going up and down the Hudson two weeks ago when it was necessary to dodge all sorts of debris still in the river from Irene including trees, telephone poles, pieces of docks and even a picket fence. Keep those great ideas coming because when you run out of things to add to the boat, dare I say, it's time for a new boat.
 
Thanks for bumping this, it reminded me I had a few requests to post pictures of the stairs a PO had installed to replace the ladder to the aft deck. These were a real selling point for us, especially Ann ("how am I going to get the horderves and cocktails up there?") and we have been very grateful to have them for guests with limited mobility as well.

There is usually a beverage cooler in that spot below them, it is in the shop and I am beginning to like having the storage...

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Our best modification was replacing the cast iron risers and elbows with one piece units made from a copper nickel alloy. No more worries about corrosion causing water inside the engines cylinders. Now I can sleep at night.:)
 
A very good idea for a thread, kudos to the originator on this one.

Things I've done that have made Blue Note much more user-friendly:

-conversion of V-berth to offset double, with cabinets where other side used to be.


PICTURES?
I want to do the same thing.
 
I'll try to get some. Seems to me I posted some not too long ago, but I will try to find them. I do have some, somewhere, that I shot after the soft goods were renewed last year.

It is a rather small space and difficult to get photos inside of it. Essentially what we did was set the door to hinge on the stbd side, not the port as it did when new. The port deck of the bed was extended out towards the middle of the boat and the side rail of the original berth space reused. The offset double is not parallel- it tapers towards the foot (bow end) but it is big enough for two people comfortably. We reused the drawers left over to make a bureau which occupies the stbd side of the Vberth. That is removeable, although it hasn't been out in years, so it could actually be used as another bunk space.
 
My best mod is when I had the top plate off holding tank took a 2 foot long piece of SS welding rod
and epoxy a cork on the rod to make a sight gauge on the tank now I know just how much is in the holding tank.
Bob
 
1) Repowering with 330b Cummings

2)Repowering with 330b Cummings

3)Repowering with 330b Cummings

Although I only have the 270's THIS!!!! I went with the Cummins though:cool:

Completely changed the boat.

And Hydraulic steering eliminated the old station wagon feel, so that is second.
 
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Although I only have the 270's THIS!!!! I went with the Cummins though:cool:

Completely changed the boat.

And Hydraulic steering eliminated the old station wagon feel, so that is second.

Great now we have 3 Randys :p
 
Well, I guess that I want to get in on this. In order of importance:
  1. Inverter/charger
  2. Power davit(yes, self-serving I know)
  3. Conversion of master cabin twins to athwartship queen
  4. Raritan Elegance toilets
  5. iPad w/Garmin Bluecharts
  6. 55" Samsung on lift w/Surround sound
  7. Replaced useless fiberglass insulation on gen enclosure with Soundownn
  8. I will be adding Smart Plugs this fall
 
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I added a linear actuator to raise and lower the hatch to the bridge. The hatch itself is probably the better part of 75 pounds so now I just press a button on a wireless remote and up she goes. Same thing for the way down.
 
Fantastic thread folks.

My favorites have to be:

1. Aft cabin modifications; from two twin beds to an athwartships queen and a bureau/settee.
2. Remote fuel/water gauges
3. Remote generator oil pressure/temperature gauges
4. Digital A/C controls
5. Replace original Detroit oil filter housings with spin-on filters
6. Replace original plastic portlights with stainless steel ones.
 

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