Winterizing Crusader 454 gas engines

[Beckytek]

Tomorrow I am having the boat pulled and will be winterizing the boat. I have done everything myself before but the engines. They are charging $195 per for doing this so I thought I'd save the cash this year and do it myself. I am going to remove the hose going to the raw water pump and connect a longer one into a bucket of pink antifreeze. The bucket holds about 2 1/2 gals. I was going to start the engine and when the bucket is empty turn it off. Is that about all there is to it? Should I remove the plugs and squirt oil into all the cylinders also? I plug up the exhaust pipes with 5" toy balls when finished.
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Freebird]

Sounds like you've got things pretty much covered. That's the way I would do if, if I winterized my boat. You may want to consider using the couplers that go on top of your strainers that will allow you to use a garden hose to flush and winterize your engines. I've used those before, and they work great, as long as you don't leave them in the wrong position and burn up your engines. It rarely gets that cold in TN, and I like to cruise in the winter. I turn on my bilge heaters when it gets real cold for an extended period.

Don't forget about your freshwater systems though. You can use RV antifreeze for your freshwater tank. Just be sure to run enough through all the faucets, and head if applicable, to circulate it.

You may also want to check the antifreeze in your generator, and think about the heat exchanger.

I haven't winterized a boat in quite some time, so somebody please point out anything I may have forgotten.

PS Wouldn't worry about oiling the cylinders through the plugs. Maybe use some winterizing spray through the carbs though. Fuel stabilizer?

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Youve got the right idea. My 454s are mercs, and raw water cooled
(no heat exchanger/anti freeze). I open all the block and manifold drains and rod out the holes that have plugs with a piece of coat hanger to make sure they are empty.Close and replace them. At this point I close the inlets and open my sea strainers and run 50/50 solution of AF throughout the entire system. Thats it. One point that I would like to add is that my strainers are the plastic GROCO units that do not tolerate anti freeze. I then open the inlet valves and vacuum and rinse the AF so they are clean and anti freeze free. I generaly use about 4 gallons of 50/50 mix. Nothing is needed for spring comissioning.
The same holds true for the generator. Mine is heat exchange cooled with AF. The raw water side needs to be drained (self draining via hose removal) including the RW pump and strainer.The aqua-lift muffler needs no attention.
I drain my potable system including the hot water heater. Bypass valves eliminate the heater circuit when I run the pink stuff through. The tank self drains and I use the tank hose to the pump to suck directly out of the jug of PS.
Dont forget the shower sumps,macerators, and bilge pump areas. Mine has a bilge drain plug that I leave out for ventilation till spring.Take all electronics,binoculars etc. home.
Hope this helps. ws

 

[captddis]

Are the engines fresh or raw water cooled? If fresh and if the coolant is ok for freeze protection. Then run enough antifreeze through until good color comes out the exhaust, then fog the engine with Mystery oil. Then seal up flame arrester and exhausts.
If they are raw water cooled then there are a few more steps. Dave

 

[Freebird]

Hey SlickWillie,

Just wondering, why do you drain your block before you fill it with anti-freeze?

 

[Freebird]

Are the engines fresh or raw water cooled? If fresh and if the coolant is ok for freeze protection. Then run enough antifreeze through until good color comes out the exhaust, then fog the engine with Mystery oil. Then seal up flame arrester and exhausts.
If they are raw water cooled then there are a few more steps. Dave

Dave, don't mean to be a smartass or nothing, but where are you running that AF through on a freshwater cooled engine? My Hatt is freshwater cooled, so there is already AF in the system.

 

[captddis]

Bill has the process for raw water cooled already posted. The only thing I will add is if using the non toxic pink or blue stuff, DO NOT dilute it use full strength. And it is cheap do not be afraid to run some extra through.
I used to winterize about 70+ boats every year, I got grief for using too much anti freeze, but never had any freeze damage.

 

[captddis]

Through the pump, oil cooler, exchanger, risers and exhaust system. In other words everything that has seawater in it.

 

[Beckytek]

Thanks for all that good info. I have fresh water cooling. Could I use one of those foggers instead of mystery oil? I'm afraid of pouring too much oil and breaking something.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I drain the raw water side in case of a pocket of water.Just a precaution. I dont run the engines for more than the anti freeze allows. It probably doesnt circulate 100% in 15 seconds. Us yankees have a whole different approach. Ya got to when its -30F.
Thats why everybody down south uses straight water with norcool. Because they can!
Gotta go. I need my bi-weekly shower so I'm fresh tomorrow at 0400 to begin again. Weez puttin on that 64 inch wheel and pullin the 96 inch one and the shaft stub for shipment to Sault Ste. Marie. Some of us hafta work for a livin. I'm glad I get to do this for KIX.
I'll be back in a while DDII. Hold yer turkey!! ws

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I never use pink stuff. I use siera anti-freeze as it doesn't make the water angry in spring. I am just not sure that the tiny little amount of etelyne-glycol of regular anti-freeze is that bad for the water, but, oh well. I don't like your idea of sending a fixed amount through your sea water side. I always put as much through as it takes to change the color of the exhaust water to the color of the anti-freeze, then have someone gather a sample in a bucket under the exhaust and check this sample with a hydrometer. When you do this, you know for sure that you are protected. Be very carefull if you live in Duluth MN. as they REALLY have winters and temperatures as low as -30 degrees. OUCH.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I should add that I do visit / work on her over the winter and periodically spin the starters a few turns. Keeps 'em loosened up so they dont feel neglected. That also cycles the batteries a bit. Rubber balls are good--keeps the critters out. Same boat for 33 years this year. Must be doing something right! ws

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Yer right Maynard. When we winterize boats at the yard we circulate through the whole system via the pickup until it comes out rich. -40F. Either way is correct. Last year we were bustin' ice in the twin ports (Duluth) with the 2400HP SENECA and the air was so cold that the fog was frozen in suspension. If I recall the ambient was -42F.
In those conditions, we cant run sea water/ice through the engines; the strainers fill with ice and then yer froze in. NOT GOOD. Actually the sea strainers are closed and winterized by filling the valve casing with pumped in lard through a grease fitting. We fill the fore peak tank with water and recirc it. About 3000 gallons. The lake water keeps the skin nice and cool. BUT, Ya gotta drain it when yer done for the day!! The boiler in the engine room for heating keeps the space warm enough for a start up. 275 lbs of air to blow down and start the EMD. You've got one chance and then ya wait for air again. ws BRRRR!!

 

[CARL GUZMAN]

Wow bill you know alot about boats I haven't read your threds much ,too busy with Crazybird but I always thought you had a submarine well I guess much of the mechanics are the same..?

 

[yachtsmanbill]

If I had a submarine it would be the only one headed for TENNESEE waters!!
#2 boat is a sistership to EL LOCOs but I usually run on both engines tambien??

 

[captddis]

When I would winterize, I would use a starter button and a clip lead for ignition. Once the anti freeze came out with good color, I would start pouring the mystery oil in but not enough to stall, when the back of the boat dissappeared in a cloud of smoke, I would pull the clip lead. This way you never stalled the engine, but got plenty of oil distributed.
I might add that there were never stuck valves even on engines that were layed up for a couple years.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Thats why I like to spin them on occasion. Circs a little oil and excercises the valve train- never had a flat cam either. ws

 

[captddis]

True, but these boats were in a boat yard with batteries removed and shrink wrapped. Rolling the engines over was not practical.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I have to agree with you cap--there isnt much you can do about that. You should have seen the waste at the power plant. $10K roller bearings in the trash because they sat on the shelf for 2 years. In THEORY they develop molecular flat spots and the NRC would not certify them--your electric dollars at work!!
To stay on topic, I never pull my batteries. I never saw the reason to. Even during long term storage I spend a day a month visiting her and that lets the charger work. I guess my boat is ready to go at a moments notice. Ready for all out thermonuclear war. At least I be on my boat to witness the flash.

 

[Trojan]

I always drained the blocks on the gas engines first. Then I remove the thermostats. I then put the fresh water intake hose in a 5 gallon bucket of cherry juice start the engine and run it till it is 100% pink at the exhaust. I then reinstall the T-stat and its ready for spring. I use to fog. But I have not done that for 8 to 10 years. Its good for 60 below. I have never lost an engine doing it this way. I would never do it this way with the T-stat still in the block.


BILL