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Windlass Recommendation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bob Bradley
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Bob Bradley

Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
3,664
Hatteras Model
43' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1978 - 1983)
The wildcat removal thread got me thinking that I will most likely be replacing the windlass on the 45C that I just bought. I installed a Lewmar V3 on my 43C and it was ok, but imho just ok. In 3 short years it rusted badly below the deck - so much so that Lewmar replaced it. They did stand behind their product, so I won't trash them, but I'd like to know everyone's opinion on the various makes and models on the market today. I plan on going with a rope/chain rode. What do you guys like?
 
I have a Good Automatic Windlass on my 34. It works better hurt (my fault) then any other windlass did new. Super easy to maintain and designed to easily clear chain jam (happens when chain gets older and no longer flows like a bearing).

I have purchased a new F850-DW. It is the F850-C with a stronger motor. It is not even on their website. Bought over the summer. They must be happy selling word of mouth. Anyway total cost buying direct was $3,160 for windlass, deck extension, 300' of 9/16" line with 10' 5/16"BBB chain, shipping, tax, and CC fee.

It is not the best looking super chrome pretty windlass but the look never deteriorates and it is definitely built like a brick shithouse. Goind to run control wire from bridge. Heard the wireless stuff is unreliable and has delays. Robert, how does your wireless work?
 
Forgot to add one of the selling points is that the windlass can hold the load. No need to tie off to a cleat after anchor is set. Popular with the charter guys for this reason.

Works for me. Worth a look.
 
I have heard good things about the Good, but I can't find the model F850-DW that you mentioned. The ones listed call for 5/16 chain too. I prefer 3/8. Robert's model seems to have good specs. I'm also curious about the wireless. Running the wires from the bow all the way to the bridge is no small task. The wireless on the Lewmar is adequate, however the remote is a pain to use. The buttons are about 3/16 - 1/4" in diameter and recessed. Your hand literally hurts by the time the anchor is in. Morons had to have designed it. Why they can't come up with a 1/2" wide button that is not recessed in a divot is beyond me.
 
I understand that an all chain rode in a salt water application will throw some salt water around the anchor locker. Apparently, Lewmar doesn't understand this. The Lewmar relay was installed the same day as the Cole Hersee circuit block. Compare them.

Pic 1a.webp
Pic 2.webp
 
Here's what the motor looked like. This is a unit that runs in the $2000 - $2500 range. They couldn't have spent another $10 on it and used something other than soft steel on the housing? Stainless maybe? Hell, make it out of plastic.

Pic 3.webp
 
I love my slow Galley Maid :)

We have a pair of Maxwell 4000 on the 84 footer I run and I m not impressed by the design. The chain stripper is attached to the hawsepipe ... I ve had two of them jam bending the flange on the hawsepipe on which the striper is bolted. Not only is the hawsepipe a $400 part but in order to replace it, you have to remove the whole windlass because god forbid bolts aren’t pretty and the hawsepipe are bolted from under the windlass. Plain stupid. The stripper should be bolted from the top and easy to replace

And both aft deck Maxwell 1000 winches are making a rough noise...

Not impressed
 
I have a Good that is all rode. I had to rebuild it two years ago with a new motor and locking clutch. The company has the parts right there and in the mail. Very simple and smart design and it free falls. All of my anchoring is done from the bridge, drop it, back up the boat then raise the windlass a bit to lock. If I was going to stay on the hook for longer than a few hours I would still use a snubber.
Moving up to the chain/ rode windlass would be a very viable upgrade for me.

Walt Hoover
 
Bob, you have to call them. Like I said they have not updated their website. I can text pictures of everything I have since it is not installed yet. Unlike the one Pascal mentioned on the 84 these are very serviceable. Worth a look but in this size there are other options as well.
 
Thanks for the info and pictures of the Lewmar Bob. I've been thinking about adding a windlass to my 1987 45C and Lewmar was at the top of my list. After seeing yours, I think I'll pass. The Maxwell looks good.

Surprisingly, it seems my 45C was never equipped with a Windlass. from the factory. It has a space for a fuse in the electrical panel labeled "windlass", but no existing wiring to the bow.

Regards,
JCG
 
This is a really timely thread for me. I finally got my GalleyMaid windlass to release, but apparently I am going to have to pony up for electrician to rewire windlass motor, new breaker etc. But having finally gotten cathead and gypsy pulled apart and lubed, I am able to release anchor with a "special tool" ie, a 18" breaker bar with a 1 1/2 inch socket epoxied on to make a permanent capstan tool.
 
Check before you rebuild. I was able to find a new replacement motor for mine. Granted it was about 10 years ago.
 
Buy the GOOD. Amazing product.
 
The concern I have with the GOOD is that they dont seem to offer a model with a capstan. I frequently double anchor to get over a wreck accurately and like having the capstan to help retrieve the 2nd anchor.
 

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