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Windlass Politics

The Ideal windlass on our 1980 53MY was Hatt-installed per the factory build sheet. The original inverter was installed by the dealer (Hatteras of Lauderdale) prior to delivery to the original purchaser and it is not on the original paperwork. So, based on that, I ASSUME that if a component is on the original paperwork, it was installed by Hatt, if it is not, it wasn't. BUT...that IS an ASSumption. ;)

Here's our Pulpit: Hmmm...can't get it to attach

OK, here we go...
 

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Interesting bicycle you got there, with two rear wheels.
 
Most of them are centered which seems to work pretty well.

I can things if a number of things Hatteras did which could have done in a better way... But this is the nature of boatbuilding For instance, putting the electrical panels in the ER of early 53s... Using a thousand screws into a cored deck to secure the flybridge... And back to windlasses, I have never cared for those vertical switchesl which can be hard on your toes. I can see how it uncluttered the deck but not as practical

Same with not always installing an access hatch to the anchor locker...

No such thing as a perfect boat, even a hatt.
 
The good thing about the vertical switches (which I do not have. Mine are on the deck) is that you are less likely to accidentally step on them.

We had a woman tear up her finger last weekend at our marina doing just that. She grabbed the chain to turn it so the anchor would seat in the chute correctly and accidentally stepped on the button which pulled her finger into the gypsy. She had surgery this week due to torn nerves and tendons.
 
It's always a good idea to shut the breaker to the windlass until you need to deploy the anchor.

Walt
 
This is why windlass switches should have a cover.

Fully agree on turning off the breaker... Years ago humidity in the foot switch caused my windlass to start hauling anchor in the middle of night! On the downside, it s nice to have the windlass ready to go in an emergency like loosing power or if someone drags on you in a tight anchorage. And a boat without a locker hatch, having to go down below, in the forward SR and into the locker cabinet can waste precious time.
 
This is why windlass switches should have a cover.

Fully agree on turning off the breaker... Years ago humidity in the foot switch caused my windlass to start hauling anchor in the middle of night! On the downside, it s nice to have the windlass ready to go in an emergency like loosing power or if someone drags on you in a tight anchorage. And a boat without a locker hatch, having to go down below, in the forward SR and into the locker cabinet can waste precious time.

I'll bet that was a surprise, were you anchored at the time?
 
We installed a new pulpit (rotted and crooked) and windlass last year. The pulpit came from Slane and windlass is a Maxwell RC12-12 for 1/2 chain. Jerrett Bay made a stainless shut to funnel the chain fairly close to the center of the chain locker. Works gr8 and is faster and stronger than the old windless.

With the old set up the chain would pile up on the side of the locker and fall over itself. When we would let it out it would jam requiring someone to flake the chain by hand each time we used it, which is often. In 3000 miles since then it got jammed once and I could clear it reversing the windless.

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Skooch
58 LRC Wye River MD
 
I'll bet that was a surprise, were you anchored at the time?



Yes... The noise woke me up, at first I thought it was an outboard till I realized the noise wasnt moving... Got to it before the anchor alarm went of!
 

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