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Windlass opinions wanted

  • Thread starter Thread starter finatic
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finatic

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
219
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
52' CONVERTIBLE (1983 - 1990)
Hi All,

I have a 1984 52C that has never had a windlass. (Can't believe this was optional!) I'm looking for opinions on which brand, and size. I plan on putting a battery or batteries and a dedicated charger under the bunk in the forward V-birth.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Paul
Finatic III
 
Hi All,

I have a 1984 52C that has never had a windlass. (Can't believe this was optional!) I'm looking for opinions on which brand, and size. I plan on putting a battery or batteries and a dedicated charger under the bunk in the forward V-birth.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Paul
Finatic III
Comparing apples to apples (Hatteras sales brochures), Aslan is about a 1' wider, about 4' longer and 10,000 lbs heavier than Finatic III with an indeterminately larger wind cross section. I have a Maxwell RC-12 (24V) with capstan with 1/2" chain and 3/4" rode. Besides the helm control, I have their wireless remote. This is a real plus over deck mounted foot switches, not to mention the ability count out your drop in 1' or metric increments. I've used the capstan to retrieve another boat's anchor once with good result.

http://www.maxwellmarine.com/gen_rc.php?features

I
do not do much anchoring, so take that into account. The windlass has never given me a moments trouble. Basically, the only periodic maintenance is the greasing of the Belleville washers; this can take as long as 10 minutes. I estimate the unit was installed about 15 years ago. It shows no signs of corrosion and is still bright and shiny.

Unknown.webp

I'm sure the 3" PVC is not OEM, but it works.
 
If you re going install batteries in living quarters make sure you use AGMs They don’t gas as much. It may even be a ABYC recommendation.

I agree about having control of the windlass from the helm. Very useful on windybday when you need to control the boat while setting or retrieving. Also allows you to assist the windlass with engines when raising anchor and either wind or current are strong

I installed a Lewmar wireless remote. It works well and saves you the hassle of running wires from the FB
 
I agree with Robert, the Maxwell RC 12/24 is what Hatteras has been using since the early 2000 models, very robust unit, easy to operate and relatively maintenance free. I would strongly encourage foot switches as well as a wireless remote. If your boat wasn't spec'd with a windlass, you probably don't have a forward wash down connection.....very important for rinsing off anchor rode as it enters your locker.
 
Had great luck with Lewmar. Installed new windlass, helm control, wireless remote as well as standard foot switches at the bow.

Really like this set up for several reasons. First, the helm control has a counter that indicates how many feet of line or chain has been payed out. This helps me in determining proper anchor rode for any given depth and weather condition. Second, I like the wireless feature, especially when hauling the anchor as it frees me up to move around the bow instead of stuck in one spot holding the foot switch. Third, I like the foot switch in those cases where everything else fails or I'm too lazy to go get the wireless remote.

Installed this set up on our 42 Ft. Chris Craft about six years ago and it hasn't missed a beat! We anchor out almost every weekend in the summer, so get's used fairly often. Mounted a battery in the bow anchor locker and connected a charging relay to starboard engine.

Our Hatt has the original Galley Maid unit. Works fine and quite robust but definitely lacking the conveniences of the Lewmar system. We contacted the regional Lewmar rep to determine best unit and accessories for our application and then bought all the stuff through our local chandlery.
 
Stay away from Anchorlift windlasses!
 
Thanks to all who responded! I am leaning toward the Maxwell. The AGM battery thing was something I hadn't thought of! Can anyone recommend a dedicated charger? probably going with 12 Volt battery.
 
Agm batteries are valved. They will gas less than a wet lead acid but they still gas.

As a charger forna dedicated bank look at a 24 volt bank and charger. Higher voltage helps with the cable and voltage drop issues.

Look at something at least 30 Amps and 24 volt with remote panels and built solid. I offer great deals on victron to members. Look at the IP44 chargers the have. Also remember the wire size and breaker size for the charger is important. Also the wire size and breaker / fuse for the windlass is important.
 
Make sure that whatever model you pick can easily be serviced.

Example... Maxwell 4000 series. I have two of these at the “office” (Lazzara 84). Nice units... but. If the chain jams against the chain stripper for whatever reason and the hawse pipe gets damaged, the whole windlass has to come off to remove the 4 bolts holding the hawse pipe in which the stripper is bolted.... pita

After the first time it happened, we drilled the holes for the 4 bolts thru the deck and backing plate so the hawse pipe can be removed without having to pull the whole windlass

Stupid design from Maxwell ...
 
IMG_1376.webpIMG_8349.webp
My 53MY has an Ideal winch on a raised pulpit ares. My final decision was to leave the Ideal alone as a backup, and get a Horizontal HRC1010 Maxwell to sit behind the winch so it would drop down directly in the starboard compartment (the port compartment has the shore cable from cable master shown in the picture). The boat came with a CQR 45 LB, and I am getting 50' of 3/8 HT chain with 250 5/8 8 braided rope.

I figured it would take a lot of work removing a 32v ideal since there is also a cable master just behind the Ideal, and access is PITA. So I am leaving the winch in place the chain/rope will rub against its "Roller which is fully slippery and smooth" on the starboard side, and then at 8 inches above the main deck will go through a chain stopper then the HRC1010 down to the starboard side.

Going to run 2 gauge black and red lines to my 12 V banks on an alternator and a charger.

Will post pictures once done.

Anyone thinks that this wont work?
 
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