Where do I get Pink Fiberglass filler (see photo)?

[sgharford]

I have all the interior window frames out on my 1976 43DC and in true Hatteras fashion, they cut the frame opening’s too big so that most of the exterior frame screws go into nothing. In some places (see attached photo) there is a pink fiberglass filler to make up for discrepancy. This material looks as good as any to fill numerous other voids that were not filled, does anyone know what it is called so I can look into ordering? Other suggestions are welcome as to what material to use to build up about ½” of material for window frame cut outs. Thanks – Scott.

 

[gbharrington]

The filler is just resin and cotton flox mixed together. You can get it from Aircraft Spruce
among other places that sell fiberglass and composite supplies.
I was told by a former Hatteras employee from that time period that back in the day they they just used a sawzall for the window openings, which accounts for the poor dimesional control.
My own experience with the 43 DCMY is that the inside trim ring for the forward port window was incorrectly manufactured, resulting in need for a significantly larger opening than otherwise necessary. I'm pretty confidant that window had been leaking on my boat since the day it was built. My solution was to repalce the wood around the window, since it was all rotted anyway, and to shorten the vertical leg on the trim ring by about 1/2". I didn't bother getting it rewelded since the lack of welding has no negative effect structually or visually.

 

[sgharford]

Thanks for info on above. I'm replacing much of the 1/2" plywood on other side due to rot and cutting it to fit frame correctly. The other side (shown above) can be salvaged as is. If the mozambique veneer wasn't so expensive I would replaced all 1/2" plywood on both sides.

 

[sandspur1966]

If it were my boat I would not use the older materials for repair work. The adhesive properties of newer epoxy technology far outstrip those of polyester and vynlester resins that were (and still are) used in the layup and fitting out of FRP boats.

I would build up the voids using a matt cloth and West System epoxy and use thickened epoxy where you need filler.

 

[sgharford]

I was thinkingof gooing up cotton with thickened West. All of these surfaces are vertical with nothing to hold up sides, and in some cases vertical hanging from above. I used thickened matt fixing swim platform last year and it took forever to build it up. I'm no fiberglass expurt by any means, so if I was to use a matt (with thickened West) to replace pink fill above, what type matt would you recommend?

 

[gbharrington]

In your case I dont think it matters. Thicker/heavier mat will be stiffer and more difficult to handle and shape than thinner mat (6oz.) which will require more layers.
I decided to cover the area around the window openings with a 1/8" closed cell foam backer and an off-white vynyl. It lightens up the saloon and provides some contrast. Unfortunately I only have a couple of partial shots that I can show you.

 

[sandspur1966]

I would use a combination of any CSM matt (Chopped Strand Matt) if you want to build fast you can go with a higher weight (2 oz) and some fiberglass tape (easier to size than woven.) Use the tape on the outer layers and matt to build in between. I personally would not use the cotton unless it is specifically approved by the Gougeon's at West.

If you are building up a vertical surface I would clean up the surface of what I were building up then just rip some mahogany and screw and laminate it in place with West and then cover the whole deal in a few layers of west and cloth and then fair with thickened epoxy.

links below to jamestown but you can get this stuff anywhere.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2067&familyName=Fiberglass+Mat

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=1444&familyName=Fiberglass+Mat+Tape

 

[sgharford]

Greg - digging that tool storage! You may have added a new project for me next year.

I called West and they never heard of Flocked Cotton Fiber, so they couldn't confirm if it would work or not. They recommended wood as filler to if I was going up ½”. I originally intended to use mahogany ply as laminate as I have bukoo's of it from deck core replacement going on at same time. The existing 'pink fiberglass' looked pretty easy to work with judging from what I could see, so it may be a combination of both depending how much I have to build up.

 

[gbharrington]

Flocked cotton is used all the time with epoxy on experimental airplanes as a filler.

Glad you like the tool storage. I'll be hapy to fill you in on the details whenever you're ready.

 

[sgharford]

Thanks! Those photos you shared with me regarding cutting open the companionway to remove old fridge were priceless. I have the old fridge out and just waiting for the boat next to me to splash so we can get forklift in and get it off boat and new one in. Going with same Frigidaire FFHT513 stainless steel model you have.

 

[34Hatt]

Greg - digging that tool storage! You may have added a new project for me next year.

I called West and they never heard of Flocked Cotton Fiber, so they couldn't confirm if it would work or not. They recommended wood as filler to if I was going up ½”. I originally intended to use mahogany ply as laminate as I have bukoo's of it from deck core replacement going on at same time. The existing 'pink fiberglass' looked pretty easy to work with judging from what I could see, so it may be a combination of both depending how much I have to build up.

As I was reading this and thinking about your goopey mess you were going to make I was saying just use wood and epoxy! Your over thinking it!

Also seal all those edge's real good before putting the window in.

 

[sgharford]

I ordered a 5 lb bag of flocked cotton and will try it for $20. Hatteras used this stuff all over the place it large masses to hold wood paneling to fiberglass, as well as fill some, but not all, voids in window frame cut outs. From what I see in existing uses, it looks pretty easy work with so I'll give it a try. All's I really want to do is build up exterior fiberglass skin that is is missing so there is more sealing surface for exterior window frame. Any exta behind that (over top of existing 1/2" interior plywood) is a bonus as it will give the exterior frame screws something more to bite into. My worst case is 1/2", in some places maybe only 1/8 to 1/4" to fill in, which is not enough to use plywood for. I never want to do this job again as I have about 50 hours into so far a couple of boat bucks for new glass and powder coating - figuring all comes down to that exterior fiberglass skin and sealant I use on frame. Thinking I'm going the route Vincent did with Butyl tape and 4200.

 

[GaryNW]

Its called "thixo" in the industry. A large fiberglass boatbuilder will use barrels of the stuff. Just thickend resin with milled fibers. The polyeaster based product is just fine in compression applications where great adhesion is not needed. Commonly used in aligning struts, shaft logs, etc. Hatteras used it between my engine rails and stringer crowns also. I used the WM product when I replaced my port strut; chiseled out the original Hatteras filler and just used the shaft to align the new strut. WM calls it "marine structural filler"- $37/ qt. I would see problems trying to use self-tappers. They would snap off, as if tapping into concrete.

Gary