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Update On Perseverance, our 52C

Texastailboard

Active member
Joined
Feb 4, 2014
Messages
193
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
52' CONVERTIBLE (1983 - 1990)
Well it has been a bit since I have posted on the forum, we have done the bottom and changed 2 out of the 4 AC's and a few minor things. The electronics have been updated and we are waiting on our new console to flush mount all the new stuff. On the interior we have started going through all the major systems such as water and sanitation. The new carpet is in and we are waiting on the new foam to come in to replace the mattresses. I started to pull the tile in the galley and have it completed now. Man the tile was not fun to bring up, especially the 1/4" plywood underneath it. I could really tell where the 5200 was holding, lol. Now to start on the teak. We want the floors done asap so the baby can crawl around. I will post more pics as we make progress.
 

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Losing weight is hard work.
Looks like it will be a definite improvement.
 
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Luckily there was carpet in the hallway and linoleum in one of the heads. In the guest head there is more tile, so excited, LOL. It will be all worth it.
 
Well to give all of you an update, the new carpet is in and the new Teak and Holly is gong down, currently I am trying to pick a two day window to apply the finish. I had to rearrange a few of the to do list, the admiral and I wanted the salon to be finished asap so our infant daughter can crawl around, going to have to baby proof the boat. Never thought I would be doing that. LOL

Next project is getting the engine room to a state of cleanliness that I can live with until a later date. We are wanting to move a few things around like the stack of AC's was thinking of moving them outboard of the engines. Has anyone had any luck with this? Another thing I was thinking was removing the plywood on the starboard side behind the engine to gain bit of head room. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have even considered an on demand water heater.

floor 1.webpfloor2.webpfloor3.webp
 
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What product did you use for your T&H floor?
 
We have the same boat and i know the stacked AC units are in the way, however moving them outboard of the engine will be even more in the way when it comes times to work on the motors. The only problem i have with the AC units is the difficulty getting to outboard. Once on the other side there is ample room to work on the motors and i personally wouldn't sacrifice that.

The floor looks good. which flooring did you use?
 
The T&H product is a veneer over marine plywood. We decided to go with this product based on weight and cost. We love real wood, but laying single plank is very time consuming. On the other hand making a template and cutting out the panel, then trimming so that it will fit is time consuming. I am going to finish the floors with an undetermined product. We are currently testing different products so we can decided on a product that will work and not yellow out the holly very much.

Regarding the AC's, I noticed after we replaced the main salon unit going from a Cruisair to AquaAir the actual foot print is smaller and looking at both of the shelfs in what I call the AC rack I seem to have quite a lot of extra space. One thought was to trim the shelfs, and reposition the ac pump which sits directly behind the ac rack and roof supports. Trimming the rack and moving the pump should open up the area a bit. It just seems decently cramped between the Ac's and aft bulkhead. Has anyone switched to the on demand hot water? Results?
 
The panels I got from Houston Hardwoods in Houston TX. Since I can drive there and get them I can save on the shipping. There are a few placed that carry the panel products, but that one was somewhat local. I went with the 1/4" option, the 1/2" panels were just so heavy. The sub floor was sufficient enough to support all of it. We are very please with all of it. I am using 1/4" thick real teak to trim stuff around hatches and door thresholds. I want to say I payed like 130 a sheet for the materials. It was cheaper than having it shipped in. I have a piece to put around the head, I will place it this weekend. I am planning on using Formica on the triangle that follows the hull. I need to replace the wall paper anyone can recommend a product for to look for, seems like the current stuff is much thicker compared to regular wallpaper.
 
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On demand water heaters draw a great deal of current and the reviews on them are just average. Instead of that, you can heat water for free by buying one that has a coolant loop inside the tank. Look in Defender Marine- they have a lot of them. That way, when you run your boat, you always have hot water. The manufacturers of trawlers and sailboats specify these units, and just Tee off the coolant lines from one of the main engines. You can also use the coolant lines from the generator, but there's not much point in that.

I've had a heater of this kind on my Hatteras for decades now. Mine is a Seaward, which is a cheap one, but it's still working fine after probably fifteen years. it has a stainless outer case and still looks pretty new.

Because the water heater is located in the engine room, the water tank stays hot for several days after you shut the water down. If you need more, you can turn the element on, and it will heat it right back up again. I've never had to do that.

There is a downside: the water coming out of the water taps is HOT- like coolant jacket temp hot, and you have a toddler. A mixing valve to temper the water coming out of the hot side would be a good idea. The advantage to having water that hot is that a little of it goes a long way for dishwashing and taking showers.
 
Have AC 's mounted outboard starboard (2 gens) will get photos for you early next week. Also have a tower for you when you come on over to SW FL -- off mine onto yours.
 
We have them(gas x2) at the house, make sure you look at the activation flow. Trying to take a cool shower can be tricky due to the required flow. If you do not have a washer/dryer you might have capacity. The temp rise is the limitation for tankless units. I do not think any of the faucets flow more than .5GPM. In the South with water temps at 75*, one of the 6500W units which would give a 40* rise at 1.5GPM which would be plenty for 2 showers at the same time. I do not look forward to getting that original out of there.:confused:
 
I'm doing a rehab too and a couple years back I replaced the water heater with a common west marine 11 gal square one and have had no issues. We don't live aboard, but stay for days and never seem to lack hot water. It sits on the old heater pad and makes a lot of room.
 
Thanks Everyone for all the input, we will keep you posted on the progress. We will be putting the wood finish on we get back from Nantucket, a little fall vacation. I will post pics
 
I know it has been quite some time since I have posted, I have only had the time to glance over the forum from time to time. I wanted to finally get some updated pictures. Our floors are redone and various, mechanical and electrical upgrades. My wife has redone all the curtains. So next is the wallpaper. I hope all is well with everyone.

BrooksIMG_0684.webpIMG_1199.webpIMG_1200.webp
 
Looking good. So, what finish did you end up using on the teak plywood?
 
We used the interlux perfection plus 2 part, it has really held up very nicely. We had so much trouble finding a finish that didn't distort the holly.
 
It's looks great. A lot of work went into that, I'm sure. What did you decide about the water heater? I'm curious because there have been a couple of other threads asking about this. I don't think anyone but me has done the coolant loop, or if they have, they haven't said much about it. A twenty gallon one with a coolant loop would get you all the hot water you could use.
 
Nice work!

DAN
 
Very very nice. You should be proud of the outcome. Looks fabulous.
 

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