Turbo rebuild

[Colwyn D]

My turbo's require a rebuild or replacement. Main issue is corrosion in the exhaust port giving more clearance around the turbine, other is a slight oil leak from the bearings. Does anyone know if the exhaust port can be machined out and sleeved or is the best solution new turbo's.

 

[Avenger]

A sleeve is not an option because the housing has a radius. In cases like that we'd replace the exhaust housing. If it's water-cooled it will not be cheap. Since you likely need bearings too you'll probably find it more cost effective to buy a new or reman turbo.

FWIW, I have heard of places that are salvaging housings by flame spraying them to build up material and remachining them on CNC lathes. But I don't have any firsthand experience with it.

 

[34Hatt]

A sleeve is not an option because the housing has a radius. In cases like that we'd replace the exhaust housing. If it's water-cooled it will not be cheap. Since you likely need bearings too you'll probably find it more cost effective to buy a new or reman turbo.

FWIW, I have heard of places that are salvaging housings by flame spraying them to build up material and remachining them on CNC lathes. But I don't have any firsthand experience with it.

Derek I thought when we were talking about my turbo you said something about them doing sleeve's on them?

Is there something different about mine compared to his or did I just understand it Wrong which is very possible

 

[Avenger]

I think you misunderstood, but I can't recall the exact conversation. Maybe we were talking about the bearing housing?

I don't think I ever saw the turbo with the bad exhaust housing. We did the one with the crankcase pressure issue.

 

[PeterK]

I recently had my port engine inboard turbo lined and machined. An unknown mechanic, before my ownership, had dropped the spacing washer into the exhaust side and it eventually coughed up and lodge in the housing. My mechanic (BTW a great guy recommended by Bruce Morrison) in Hobe Sound has a local shop they did this work. New cartridges on both port turbos, the shop charge, remove and clean both starboard turbos (they were in excellent shape), paint all four: approx. $6,000.

Should have saved the paint charge as I wound up painting both engines afterward. They look very nice but that prompted me to paint the walls as well. Between the two jobs, maybe 8 hours actual painting and 120 prepping, taping, unscrewing and screwing! BTW: if you ever do your engine, do not forget to cover your floors

Haven't put a lot of hours on since the work but am sure the horrendous fuel use on the port will improve significantly. I had been burning about 10% more on the port than on the starboard concurrent with the generator.

 

[34Hatt]

I think you misunderstood, but I can't recall the exact conversation. Maybe we were talking about the bearing housing?

I don't think I ever saw the turbo with the bad exhaust housing. We did the one with the crankcase pressure issue.

Yes that is true but remember when I had better performance with the switch and the reason was you figured it had tighter clearance on the exhaust side than the one I took off. That was when the sleeving option of the old one came up?

Well we can always figure it out in a few weeks at the Rendezvous after a few beers because we will both be smarter then

 

[Avenger]

Sounds good to me. If we get an early start we can both be Albert freakin' Einstein by Saturday night.

 

[Colwyn D]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll start looking out for a pair of new ones then. Luckily.... I just have the one turbo per engine. Problem would appear to have been caused by the lack of risers and use of factory watercooled elbows installed at a very shallow angle allowing seawater back towards the turbos. I've just finished making a riser for the port engine and when that's fitted I'll make one for the stbd and then get the turbos sorted.

 

[Dan Mapes]

I'd take them to the local detroit dealer and see if they accept them for remans.

 

[Colwyn D]

Few pics of the port riser I've made. Hopefully it will fit ok when I get to the boat Wednesday. Mocked the salon floor and supports up above the riser from measurements taken last time at boat, what could possibly go wrong!

Plan on a trip to Exumas with family on Sunday so no pressure.

 

[drburke]

Very nice work!

Who did the jacket and roughly how much was that?

Be sure and post pictures after the installation--should be great.

DAN

 

[captddis]

Nice work! Are the shower heads going later?

 

[Colwyn D]

Thanks.

The jackets were made in the UK. I keep my boat at Stuart FL. but have found it's getting cheaper to buy stuff here than get it over there. The jacket for that riser was about $360 inc sending the riser to them as a pattern. The 4" schedule 10 stainless fittings for the riser were also a lot cheaper here, about half the price, so instead of using my friends workshop in Stuart to weld it up I made it at home and used my luggage allowance to fly it out.
The showerhead is part of the riser, shiny bit on the end. All downhill to allow the showerhead to drain when engine not running, to help stop corrosion inside the head itself, and all welding for the head done after the highest point of the riser so if a weld corrodes or whatever the water won't run back to the engine. It uses a flared pipe inside leaving about an 1/8" gap around the circumference to spray the water into exhaust gas flow.
Totally off subject and long term will tell but the US seems to be charging more for everything as a way of getting back on it's feet but the UK has kept prices down and generated more business. Our taxes are horrendous, and as far as anyone can tell completely wasted by incompetent governments but I'm sure that's the same both sides of the pond.