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'THERE IS SMOKE EVERYWHERE!!' not what you want to hear 40mi offshore....

  • Thread starter Thread starter rustybucket
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That totally sucks. Keep us posted.

I have not owned DDs for years, but my understanding was that as far as parts went, it was basically DD on the one hand and "everything else" on the other. With the smart folks using DD genuine spares..

Good luck with this and hope you are back in business soon.
 
Out of curiosity do the empty bores of the block have to be measured individually to get the kits correctly sized?
 
Its a terrible feeling. Hang in there, stay at when your fresh and walk away when your tired. Redo it as soon as you realize it's not right. You will be cruising and smiling again before you know it with a great sense of pride and satisfaction from your accomplishment.
 
Re: 'THERE IS SMOKE EVERYWHERE!!' not what you want to hear 40mi offshor

Your 92 is a wet liner engine. Most likely they leaked into the oil. I inframed both my 12/71’s myself in 3 weeks but my boat is behind the house and I have a full shop there. I did mine in 02 and at the time Detroit parts quality was turning to crap. I rejected half the reliabuilt injectors as ten tips showed erosion right out of the box. Check with some shops that are actually doing DD’s these days as to who’s making the best quality parts. Key is if the crank is scored. You won’t know that until you pull the rod caps and mains. I just dropped the crank to roll in the bearings. Pulling it out is a whole different story. Get the Detroit manual. READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK. Forget everything you read on boat diesel Internet forums whatever most of it is wrong and BS that people read somewhere and just repeated.
 
Re: 'THERE IS SMOKE EVERYWHERE!!' not what you want to hear 40mi offshor

Your 92 is a wet liner engine. Most likely they leaked into the oil. I inframed both my 12/71’s myself in 3 weeks but my boat is behind the house and I have a full shop there. I did mine in 02 and at the time Detroit parts quality was turning to crap. I rejected half the reliabuilt injectors as ten tips showed erosion right out of the box. Check with some shops that are actually doing DD’s these days as to who’s making the best quality parts. Key is if the crank is scored. You won’t know that until you pull the rod caps and mains. I just dropped the crank to roll in the bearings. Pulling it out is a whole different story. Get the Detroit manual. READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK. Forget everything you read on boat diesel Internet forums whatever most of it is wrong and BS that people read somewhere and just repeated.

I hear ya, I've got the bible (manual) already out and opened. At the same time I know we are dealing with marine and the manual may not always be conclusive. I have a full tuneup kit onboard as well as a small marine diesel (sailboat engines) rebuilding shop up the hill with any/all tools I should need.

All bolts/parts are going into labeled baggies. All fuel ports are closed off with plastic caps on injectors and heads.

The logicstics of storing a bunch of engine parts is about to be upon me. At some point today or tomorrow I'm going to have to get a helper here to help me move some furniture to the storage unit, my L shaped indoor tackle center needs to get out of here to free up some space. I can see early on that organization, cataloging and storage and documentation are going to be keys to the success of this project.

Got the oil pan dropped, exactly 1.2 cunt hairs from clearing for removal. So I've pulled the coupling apart and the top motor mounts are loose, I'm about to start raising the engine enough so that the oil pan clears, hopefully there is enough travel.

Hope to be looking at some main bearings by this afternoon. Any idea how heavy the crank is if it has to come out?

Here are two vendors for kits that have been recommended to me. I've bought a bunch of stuff from Diesel Pro in the past and have always been happy, anyone have any experience with agkits?

https://www.agkits.com/detroit-dies...overhaul-engine-rebuild-kit.aspx#.YRFiHO0pBTY

https://dieselpro.com/detroit-diese...e-overhaul-repair-kit-ti-inframe-rebuild.html
 
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biggest hurdle is going to be handling the heads. May have to rig up some type of rope pulley or lever system. Anyone cracked that nut before, any secrets?

So,.... I guess I need to get a rebuild kit and a gasket kit on order. Anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase those? I want to make certain we get a quality kit and that it is the correct kit for this engine.

Go to Harbor Fright. Pick up a bunch of large moving blankets.
The next time you see a lawn shop mowing yours of a neighbors yard, ask them for their strong backs.

Wrap the heads in large garbage bags, then tightly wrap with a moving blanket. A 1/2" line wrapped around that to make two hoop handles. Those strong backs can move it up to your car or truck.

You want real Detroit liners.
With your serial number and a picture of your piston, go to a real Detroit shop.
Hopefully the same shop that is going to check your heads and replace the injector tubes.
 
Rusty, hate this happened for you.
Back when we had the 8v92's and had to do a few rebuilds we always got new heads, not the Reliabuilt ones.

Or, you could just get some CATs to throw in there..............
The CATs will enjoy fishing in those gigantic baitwells.
 
The 892 heads are no where near as heavy as the 12/71 heads. Shouldn’t be a problem for 2 guys. Harder when you put them on make some studs to slide it down on so you don’t screw up the gaskets
 
If you haven't yet figured out if the engine ran backwards, an easy check is to remove an air set and see if there is exhaust carbon on the filter. If there is , carbon, it is a not a good thing.
 
I did an inframe rebuild on an 892 last year. as mentioned earlier, make up a couple studs to guide the head both on and off the engine, (two people can get them off, three to put them on) when untorquing ( loosen them in reverse order of when you torque them, I believe it says it in the book (also as another previously said, read the book, every letter, DD manuals are great) you do not have to drop the crankshaft to roll in new bearings. you can try and shift the lineres when the heads are off by baring over the engine, hopfully the piston will push them out , (disconnect the connecting rod on the cylinder you are working before it goes up) the linners are marked as to what size they are. good luck. P
 
If you haven't yet figured out if the engine ran backwards, an easy check is to remove an air set and see if there is exhaust carbon on the filter. If there is , carbon, it is a not a good thing.

There was carbon and water vapor/moisture on the inside of the air seps. There was actually a small pool of water on the lip of one of the turbos. I'm dang near 100% certain this thing ran backwards.
 
Rusty, hate this happened for you.
Back when we had the 8v92's and had to do a few rebuilds we always got new heads, not the Reliabuilt ones.

Or, you could just get some CATs to throw in there..............
The CATs will enjoy fishing in those gigantic baitwells.

The first thing I did after realizing we were seized was to check pricing on some cat 3406e's. Then after adding everything up I realized I don't really have $200k laying around for a boat project. A pair of them is definitely in the long term plan, but just not quite ready for that project just yet lol.
 
you do not have to drop the crankshaft to roll in new bearings.

Were you able to roll in all the main bearings from the bottom without dropping the crank?
 
I call this game: "Name 3 things you never want to find in your oil pan"

You are looking at some ring pieces, what appears to be part of a liner, and an exhaust valve adjustment bolt. (note that none of my valve adjustment bolts are missing from the heads)

51374553583_dd082b89fd_c.jpg
 
I was able to move the engine up approx 1" on it's own mounts to get the oil pan to clear to drop. I then just slid it aft and out of the way. There is plenty of space under the engine to get at the rods and bearings.


Got the #3 from the front main bearing block off last night. While it def shows signs of heat and running without oil, thankfully it is not galled or gouged in any way. The crank felt very smooth, no grooves.

51374322011_2c90dcbf18_c.jpg


51375052869_b41c01f8ea_c.jpg


The sheer size/weight of the components of these engines never ceases to amaze me. Damn what an oil pickup tube!!!
51375054079_d9b21258e0_c.jpg
 
I sent you a PM this morning regarding your failure, I had a similar failure last year on one of my DD 6V92TA engines. Joe Signorelli
 
Looks like steam pitting from the coolant in the oil. I’m still not buying the run backwards unicorn boat diesel myth. If that really happened the engine would have been shaking and shuddering so bad you would have felt it. My money would be on a liner seal failure coolant in oil cooking off cutting the lubrication of the oil.
 
Rusty, any chance you backed down on the port while starboard was shut down?
 
Looks like steam pitting from the coolant in the oil. I’m still not buying the run backwards unicorn boat diesel myth. If that really happened the engine would have been shaking and shuddering so bad you would have felt it. My money would be on a liner seal failure coolant in oil cooking off cutting the lubrication of the oil.

Actually the run backwards theory is on me. Nobody at boatdiesel suggested that.

If it had been running in forward, and the oil circulation cut off, would I have received a low oil pressure alarm? Also, as it overheated would I have received a high temp alarm?

All the videos I looked at on youtube of detroits running backwards they did not seem to be shaking or shuddering or anything. Running a little rough maybe, but not rough enough for me to feel it up on the bridge.

I'm guessing my raw water impeller is probably too, that would have only happened if reverse rotation and no water happened.
 
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