The easiest way possible!

[aquacraig@shaw.ca]

I have to strip all of the old varnish off handrails, hurricane doors, stern coaming etc. etc. The varnish is chipped, scaling, faded and is going to go! I really think I need to use some "stripper" but am worried about touching the Awlgrip. I could make a total career out of it and hand sand, but wouldn't have time to burn the diesel I just bought, and all of the magic orbital and detail sanders in the world won't get all of this junk off. HELP! What would you do?

Craig

 

[Brian Degulis]

Carbide blade scraper from Lowe's or Home Depot. No fuss No muss No paint stripper just get a few extra blades and learn how to use it you'll be amazed how fast and simple it is. But it's got to be carbide no red devil junk the balades are about $7 each but they do $700 worth of work.

Brian

 

[Sonny]

Heat gun and scraper. Practice on a scrap bit of varnished lumber to find the melting point without scorching the wood.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Pull with the scraper. Don't push it or it will gouge the wood. Heat can help but it is not necessary. Be careful not to scorch the wood if you use heat.

 

[aquacraig@shaw.ca]

I have the carbide scraper and exra blades as all the Cetol is coming off the teak decks. The flat surfaces are going great but I don't think the flat scraper will be kind to the curved surfaces. Would a heat gun allow me to educe the pressure and reduce the risk of gouging the convex edges!

Craig

 

[Sonny]

Don't scrape along the edges, go from topside to underside with the flat blade rounding the radius of the curve. This is where the heat really comes in handy.

 

[Vincentc]

Citrustrip and plastic sheeting worked for me with the wet bar

 

[MikeP]

Another vote for scraper/heat gun. I removed the Cetol from the cabinets on the back deck - much easier and less messy than strippers. That was my first attempt at scraping rather than stripping - based on advice here - and I was surprised at how much easier and faster it was, not to mention FAR less messy. I'll be doing my rails this session on the boat in couple of weeks.

 

[Brian Degulis]

I have the carbide scraper and exra blades as all the Cetol is coming off the teak decks. The flat surfaces are going great but I don't think the flat scraper will be kind to the curved surfaces. Would a heat gun allow me to educe the pressure and reduce the risk of gouging the convex edges!

Craig

No on the heat gun Varnish doesn't peel like paint when you heat it. It does get soft but it's realy not much help. I did all my railings down to bare with the scraper in around 4 hours. You have to be carefull with it and you will get some scratches but nothing that's not easily sanded out. I would think the scraper would be more of a problem on the deck I think there I'd be using a good DA sander.

Brian

 

[aquacraig@shaw.ca]

It sounds like the primary tool is my carbide scraper, careful encouragement with a heat gun where appropriate, and possible use of stripper for the tight spots around stanchions etc. Does this summary make sense?
Also, is there a recommended type/design heat gun?
Thanx
Craig

 

[fissioneng]

A wooden boat owner friend of mine recommended a non-carbide scraper that he sharpens occasionally with a file as he strips. I have used that technique for most things. I occasionally use a Sears heat gun, but it takes some finesse to use it since you can also melt your scraper!

I never use strippers unless I can take the part off.