The AMF years at Hatteras, as bad as at Harley-Davidson?

[Angela]

Those plastic portlights came along sometime in the 70s. For example, Ed's 1968 Hatt (and I believe Pascal's 1970 Hatt, as well) had the nice heavy bronze portlights - real quality as compared to the plastic stuff. I've got the plastic stuff and even the neighboring Sea Ray took one out while docking. Had mine been made of bronze, it would have taught the Sea Ray something about docking instead of breaking off my portlight. Instead, Ed and I got a lesson in how to replace them.

Another irritating change was in the door latches for the cabinets. It's a household door pull with the plastic ball catch on the inside. They don't hold all that well, and even in my slip, I've had to chase dishes across the salon when they came spewing out because the plastic ball catches aren't that strong. I've since had to add "baby latches" to help secure them. Ed's 1968 Hatt has the nice metal pulls that you have to press your thumb down on a button to release the metal catch inside. His don't just pop open a wake comes by. And it's not that mine are worn out, either. The way they are designed to function is that some amount of force pulling (or the dishes inside pushing) on the door lets it open (kind of like velcro!). The ones on the older Hatts don't allow the door to come open with pulling/pushing. You have to trip a latch to release the door - something a passing wake can't do.

It's stuff like that that I consider cost cutting as the years went by. The flip side of that is that my holding tank fittings, for example, were still made of bronze by 1980, though the dip tube did rot off. The irony is that I replaced all of that with plastic. LOL That dip tube isn't going to rot off again, not in my lifetime! I like plastic...but, only where I want it and that's not in my portlights or cabinet door securing hardware. Ditto on the drawer hardware. Oh well...I knew what she was when I bought and love her anyway.

The OEM non-marine sliding glass patio door...just plain stupid! (and I was being "polite"). That has got to be Hatteras's biggest brain fart of all time!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The OEM non-marine sliding glass patio door...just plain stupid! (and I was being "polite"). That has got to be Hatteras's biggest brain fart of all time!

I never even knew that sliding door existed until I saw yours. I just assumed that they all had the teak double doors there. What were they thinking?

 

[tom5518]

The Hatteras nameplates that Sky has came out in early 1982. The AMF and boat size on either end are stick on pieces that cover the screw holes on either end. Many owners replaced the plastic script ones because they would break easily when cleaning, ask me how I know! I believe the logo that MikeP has came out about 1986.

 

[Beckytek]

Angela, I have the plastic ball latches on my boat also. They can be adjusted so they are very hard to open. Just loosen 2 screws and adjust. I had to loosen a few of mine so it wasn't such a struggle to open. None of my cabinets have ever come open during wave action. Ron

 

[Angela]

The Hatteras nameplates that Sky has came out in early 1982. The AMF and boat size on either end are stick on pieces that cover the screw holes on either end. Many owners replaced the plastic script ones because they would break easily when cleaning, ask me how I know! I believe the logo that MikeP has came out about 1986.

Me too! Another use for JB Weld to repair a plastic part that used to be metal years back.

 

[Angela]

Angela, I have the plastic ball latches on my boat also. They can be adjusted so they are very hard to open. Just loosen 2 screws and adjust. I had to loosen a few of mine so it wasn't such a struggle to open. None of my cabinets have ever come open during wave action. Ron

I have one cabinet, the electrical panel of all things, that is adjusted like that. I have to use my foot to close it, and when I pull to open it, the door bends and flexes which I don't like to do to them. I just don't think those plastic ball catches are the right choice for a boat - you either adjust the friction to hold them so hard that the door and hinges flex, or your stuff scatters across the floor. Just my opinion...but I'm sure the company saved a dime by using those instead of higher quality stuff we see in the older Hatts.

I don't have the usual, plastic boat-ware on this boat. All of the plates, bowls, chargers are either heavy poured glass or china. That probably helps to contribute to the doors flying open as the dishes inside shift and push the cabinet doors open when there is a passing wake. Still, if I had the ones Hatteras used to use, that would not happen. One day, I hope to round up enough of the original Hatteras catches, I'm talkin' about the early years stuff, and replace my cabinet catches with the good stuff!

 

[MikeP]

Ang,

What are the "original Hatteras Catches" to which you refer? Is there a Sams part number for them (or a pic somewhere)? I agree that the plastic catches seem decidedly "cheap" for a Hatt - same ones were on our Mainship 36DC.

 

[BUSTER]

Mine are opposed steel spring-loaded ball bearings,that a brass cam is forced between.OK....but not good in a seaway.We always run lightweight bungee cords between the cubboard knobs when traveling. Just part of the routine. Tony

 

[Angela]

Ang,

What are the "original Hatteras Catches" to which you refer? Is there a Sams part number for them (or a pic somewhere)? I agree that the plastic catches seem decidedly "cheap" for a Hatt - same ones were on our Mainship 36DC.

It's this: http://www.samsmarine.com/PartSearch/LinkPart.cfm?ItemNmbr=84705

I have to admit that my Cruiser, Inc. express had better cabinet hardware than does my Hatt. The drawers were on metal guides with wheels - just lift up on the drawer and the drawers slide out like melted butter. Now, that boat wasn't made for the blue waters, and could just see where in a real sea that the drawers could easily jar themselves into a position to open, so it's probably a good thing that Hatt didn't use hardware on the drawers that would let them glide like that unless they used one of those nice trigger latches.

Heck, now that I think about it....I remember that DID happen in that boat once! One morning, I awoke to a tornado in the area, and the lake waves were the biggest I had ever seen on the lake. I drove the boat home and with God's helping hand, I got her backed into the slip. Opened the door to the cabin and saw that the cabinets were empty; floor was a mess! I remember the death grip I had on the wheel trying to stay in the driver's seat. Had I had a Hatt that day, that ride would have been fun.

 

[Pete]

Let me offer a somewhat different view on port holes. I owned a 1968 44 Tri Cabin with bronze port holes. Paint readily bubbled due to salt intrusion, the actual clear panel is safety glass that had gaskets on both sides that were prone to dry up from the UV and leak, when you hit one it bent the frame, replacement prices were impressive, and they were just ugly from the inside to my eye. Add to that the chrome exterior trim ring and they looked like a very old design and again to my eye detracted from the boat. My 75 Conv and my current 76 LRC have the Fuller port holes and I love the design, simple maintenance, low replacement price, plastic that does not interact with the salt, and the more flush fit to the hull. A great improvement in my opinion, plastic port holes for a plastic hull.

As for the electrical systems, the '68 Rockwell system was a was among the worst I have ever seen on a boat. Hatteras should bow their head in shame for selling that electrical system. The '75 AMF system was a vast improvement, and the '76 system on our LRC is outstanding. The quality of the components used in the '76 system is beyond anything you would expect to find on a pleasure boat. I just hope I do not have any component failures, because the cost of these components will definitely make diesel prices look reasonable, if they are even available.

I do agree the hull thickness of the '68 was greater than the later years, but just how thick and how much additional weight do you need?

If I were to characterize the Rockwell to AMF transition, I would describe it as going from brute force building to engineering based construction.

Sounds like some other changes I have not seen were not as positive.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I agree Pete. I see nothing wrong with the Fuller portlights. Mine are 22 years old and all original. You can't complain about that.

 

[Brian Degulis]

All my side portlights are original plastic in perfect shape and require nothing. The stern portlight/ escape is cast aluminum and requires maintenance or repair if you don't do the maintenance. The plastic thing is not always bad especially if it fits the boat. I think the plastic port lights look better on these boats than green bronze the reverse would be true with a trawler type boat. The plastic cabinet latches on our boat work great nothing ever pops it open my 3 year old isn't strong enough to pop them (that's a good thing). Unlike most other boats replacements latches and draw slides are easily available. Our boat is an 85 I think it says AMF The electrical and plumbing is very high quality along with almost all the engineering and components used in construction. If I had to pic something for improvement it would definetly be the interior joinerwork it's in good shape but like all the 80s hats I've seen it's just cheesy. To many mouldings to much edge screwing on thin plywood that kind off stuff. The interior joiner work would definetly be the low point on these boats that's not to say it's bad just not up to the quality found in the rest of the boat.

Brian

 

[the kuz]

Our Fuller Brush ports work great, but are cloudy vs clear. Is that the way they are supposed to be, or did a PO "clean" them with the wrong something? Thanks, Bob K

 

[BUSTER]

They are supposed to be clear.Unless they have been clouded by some sort of slovent,buffing them with 3M perfect it and a wheel will make them clear again. Tony

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have clear lenses on most of the portlights, but some are frosted. Do you mean that you can see out, but it is not clear or are they completely frosted and you can't see out at all?

You can buy both the clear and frosted lenses. Perhaps someone switched them all out for the frosted ones. I swapped a few of mine around. We wanted clear in the fwd stateroom, so we moved the frosted ones from there to the back heads. Now we don't need any curtains back there. It works much better.

 

[Angela]

Are they cloudy or frosted? I have two versions of these on my boat. The frosted ones are in the heads/showers, and the staterooms. The frosted ones are are also in the crew stateroom, though I'm not sure why unless it's because where they are mounted on the flare of the hull, curtains can't be put there, at least not and have them look right.

The frames on my original Fuller portlights (that would be all but the one the Sea Ray took out) have yellowed to the point they look like the boat was a smoking hall. No matter how hard I scrub, I can't get the yellow/brown stains off. So, it's either replace them (UGH!) or paint them inside.

The plastic windows on my master SR stern portlights, the large ones that are big enough to escape through, are yellowed and cloudy. I plan to pull those two out and put in laminated glass or some safe alternative.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Ang,
I put tempered glass in my 2 Bomar portlights last winter. It looks much better. I can actually see out now.

Just push the 2 pins out at the top and then take them to a glass shop. They will make a pattern and have the tempered pieces made. Tempered is much stronger than the laminated glass and I thought it should be pretty tough since it was on the transom and could possibly be hit with a wave or by somebody playing around on the swim platform.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

All of our Fuller Brush Ports have frosted plastic. It is not the fault of some PO. That is the way they came as new.

 

[Brian Degulis]

The frames on my original Fuller portlights (that would be all but the one the Sea Ray took out) have yellowed to the point they look like the boat was a smoking hall. No matter how hard I scrub, I can't get the yellow/brown stains off. So, it's either replace them (UGH!) or paint them inside.

Try 3M fiberglass restorer

Brian

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Pull the screws out, sand them with 400 , mask them and shoot some spray paint on them. Project # 53899 LOL ! ws