Teak and Holly floors

[Maynard Rupp]

Pascal...I tried some that were jpeg, no luck. I will try again with a 640kb jpeg, here goes. Looks like I got one, but the head photo is still a bitmap and I can't remember how I just converted the other one, BAH!

 

[Pascal]

open the image in your editor (irfanview is the best for this), then save as and select JPG as a file type, with 40% compression. this will convert to a jpg.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Thanks Pascal and sorry guys for loading up this thread with how to stuff about the website. Here is a picture of the head without the toilet bowl so you can see how the floor looks. Notice that I had to make a decision on whether to align the holly stripes on top or on the floor of the vertical panel. That is because of the curve in the floor of the 36C in the head area.

 

[chris]

I used a manufactured flooring by Wilsonart in my Chris Craft. Pictures can be seen at www.havenerenterprises.com/boat.htm It was easy to work with, no glue, just floats on a foam pad. It dulls saw blades fast, I think the wood grain has a metal material in it because when you cut it there are sparks.
I just purchased a Hatteras 48 MY and I plan to decarpet and install some type of wood floor. I will use something different than the Wilsonart this time because I am always looking for a better way. I am thinking about the Amtico. I will take a look at a sample and if I don't like it I will probabley use real teak&holly.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Do take a look at this stuff from PlasTEAK. Everyone that looks at it can't believe it isn't wood. It is extremly flexible and is a solid material unlike linoleum, which has a paper backing. You can actually feel the grain. I had to try sanding it though before all were convinced that it ain't wood. It was easy to install. The problem I see with doing something other than carpet on salon floors is the inability to remove engines or transmissions. Our 36C has about 10 pieces of plywood held to the aluminum frame with screws and fabric washers. You would have to replace those screws with countersunk ones and destroy your entire floor if you needed larger access to the engine room. The carpet also helps keep the engine noise level down.

 

[hcalmar]

Maynard
How do you think the PlasTeak would work in an application that had a hatch and therefore edging requirements?
Hal

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Maynard
How do you think the PlasTeak would work in an application that had a hatch and therefore edging requirements?
Hal

Are you going to cap the edge? If not, I think the glue would hold fine, but I would add a bead of clear silicone caulk around the raw edge. If you are using an aluminum cap, like we have on the engine room hatch, or like the cap in the photo above of our boat's head floor, It will be fine.

 

[Calcutta]

Beautiful!!!

I just recieved my "swatch" from plasteak and after months of pouring over the pro's & cons of amtico, T & H, or flexiteek, I'm SOLD on plasteak. Looks like I'll be ordering about 10' of it tomorrow.

Maynard, if I could ask, did you change directions of the strips between the sole and the head? On my boat (series I 36') the toilet is to port and faces stbd toward the entry door, so the head flooring itself is deeper (P/S) more so than wide (fore/aft). It looks like your boat's head is longer fore/aft than wide...I just wanted to see if changing directions would screw up an otherwise great flooring job...

 

[Calcutta]

Looking at your pic's again, I'm thinking you have carpet down on the sole, correct? I first thought that blue pattern was a cushion...

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Looking at your pic's again, I'm thinking you have carpet down on the sole, correct? I first thought that blue pattern was a cushion...

Yes, Calcutta, the aisle from the steps to the V-berth is carpeted. I would always orient the holly stripes fore and aft,( I guess it's kinda a nautical rule). They include the glue with the package. You will need a trowel. I couldn't find the exact one they spec. but I found a cheap little 1/16, 1/16, 1/16 trowel. Worked fine. Have lots of water handy for the glue oops stuff. I then beat on it with a rubber mallet to force air out, then walked everywhere to press it down tight. It seems fine. I caulked all edges to make it watertight. I also coated the head floor with a heavy coat of West epoxy and roughed that up with 80 grit before flooring. I live in fear of getting water in wood parts as they turn into plant food.

 

[Calcutta]

Gotcha.
Thanks for the info. Your finished product looks great.