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Stuffing Box

  • Thread starter Thread starter ELECTRA VI
  • Start date Start date
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Is there any way to put some kind of a scoop with an opening on the top behind your bilge blower chutes? you can put an overboard drain at the bottom of the scoop.

Keeping the bilge dry on my boat has pretty much eliminated any corrosion on head pumps, A/C pumps and 2 hydraulic pumps, relays, aluminum adel hose hangers, etc. etc. All of them were getting pretty nasty looking when salt water was standing in the bilge.

Somebody suggested that a mini-bilge could be put in under dripping shaft packings to keep the bilge dry without changing over to dripless seals for anyone going with the proven & traditional shaft seals.
 
Karl,

I can't picture what's on your boat, but can't you get or make a 180 degree curve above deck at the intakes with the opening facing down? That's the way thousands of intakes are made on big ships. You see standpipes all over ships with a curved top and the opening facing down, so water can't come in and just runs out before it gets into the pipe.

Doug Shuman
 
The exhausts for the blowers are on the side of the hull, and point straight outward.

That would be bad, but what's worse is that Hatteras covered them with clamshells facing aft. These are fine when you're running (the spray is going the other way, and impacts on the clamshell without going inside) BUT when shut down and a nasty storm comes from ASTERN you get air - and water, if there's some entrained in it - blown up into the vents. That water then goes through the squirrel cage blowers and into the bilge.

It took me QUITE a while to figure out where it was coming from. I'd shop-vac the bilge DRY and it'd stay dry for a couple of weeks, then magically one day it would be WET! Always outboard of the stringers, from the forward ER bulkhead back to the main intakes. It drove me NUTS for over a year; I thought I had leaks at the main induction through-hull/seacocks (that would be BAD!) for a while, and on the port side I thought the head pump might be leaking (its over there on a shelf), but then why leak only SOMETIMES, and why sometimes was only one side wet?

Well, one night I was on board and a huge storm blew up. It was trying to rain through the aft salon door (without success) and I started thinking (I know, dangerous stuff.) Went below and voila - water was coming in - quite a bit of it - through the blowers! I was shocked at exactly how MUCH water can get in that way - in a really ugly storm over a couple of hours time it can amount to a gallon or so per side! With the "right" angle of wind and rain the hullside traps water, it runs up/across the hullside, into the clamshell and is blown into the boat.

Since its FRESH water it goes fetid almost instantly.

Anyway, I can't rotate the clamshells to any other "better" orientation - at least I don't think I can. Downward would be a disaster in heavy spray, as it could be driven up into the blower inlets. Up obviously doesn't work, and neither does forward. Aft is probably the best choice, but the general design for those blower exhausts just plain sucks, and leaves me with few options.

My first thought was to fit a dorade box between the blower and hullside, with an offset between in and outlet piping, and then plumb a drain to the centerline ER bilge, where the pump is. Now if it "rains" in the dorade box it drains into the sump instead of ending up in the bilge space proper. I could also plumb it overboard but I don't have an extra through-hull on the side of the hull handy for that.

The only other thing I can come up with is to stick a BIG blower on the port side aft near the induction intake that blows outward, and close off both blower exhausts on the hullsides. Then when I want a blower I run that; it blows air out the port side and since there's a vacuum air would be drawn in from the starboard side under-deck coaming. That would likely fix it, but it would take some engineering to work out a mount and take a BIG blower to be effective, since I can't block that uinder-deck inlet without restricting airflow to the engines when under way. That would likely require 120V blower wiring - that's not a disaster since I could use the existing 12V wiring to energize a relay.
 
Karl,

Maybe you could make a dryer vent flap kind of thing. Just a simple flap door inside the clamshell with the hinge at the top so it closes off the hole from gravity dropping the door down over the hole. When the blower blows, it'll open the door for itself. When the wind blows, it'll shut the door tighter. Dryer vent flaps also have a weak magnetic latch that can be overcome by the blower air power. You might have to redesign the clamshell a bit. Then you could sell them to all the other p*ssed off 45C owners.

Doug
 
I just installed a new 4" blower over the weekend. used flex mount blower. mounted on a platform in the engine room, ran the 4" duct hose through the deck behind salon wall and made a loop up past the hull mount, that way water will have to go up about 12" before it can come down. i used a heavy rubberized hose that does not collapse, can make 90 and 180 bends with no blockage. found this stuff at my favorite surplus store, 2/ft., very nice stuff.
 

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