Stuck rudder log packing

[Messi]

Any words of wisdom on getting the collar out to re-pack? I ve tried some light heat, ipact, and prying. I'm letting it soak with kroil, and will see if that help.

Im conthingign of fabricting some metal wedges to hammer inside the threaded retaining studs to try and put upwards pressue on it.

Any magical tricks would be appreciated!

 

[ian w]

Harbour Freight sell a hydraulic tool which has two tapered metal pieces that open with a pump handle
This will easily open your stuffing box l think it’s called a power……

 

[Avenger]

If you have enough room a pair of bolts and coupling nuts make good mini jacks.

 

[Messi]

Harbour Freight sell a hydraulic tool which has two tapered metal pieces that open with a pump handle
This will easily open your stuffing box l think it’s called a power……

I have a power pack for a cutlass press….do that make something small enough to pry the packing gland off?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

IF all else fails, pull the rudder out and press it out from underneath.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Just was working on my rudder logs.
It took a half-o-fraction of an inch per side to wiggle it up.
You just can not work on one side only to work it up.

For no better of a term to call it, calcium builds up against the bronze and near locks the male part in place.

Pending the mfg, there may be a nut on the threaded rod to screw up and help press it up.

Once you can get a rotating twist on it to help break that crud up, keep prying each ear up a bit.

I have to work on mine with out vision on it. Hopefully you can see yours.

 

[Messi]

Thankis captain Ralph


Its pretty stuck. I’ve been trying to work up evenly, but looking at the joint, it hasn’t budged. Sadly no nuts on the post underneath. That would be a dream come true. I can see, but access is limited, as I’m leaning down through a hole in the master stateroom berth.

I may be just dropping the rudder. I was tapping up on the ears, but I don’t want to deform them. I’d tried some light heat as well. I’ve given this a fairly good does of ‘Kroil’ and will be back top her next

This a customer boat that stayed in her slip for too long. She is new to my care, and I’m excited to get her back where she needs to be maintenance wise. I got her 8v92sTT running great after your recommendation of glassing and epoxying a NLA Covington coolant elbow. Seatrial good after a diver pulled all the oysters off the wheels. She was leak free until the sea trial, but I thing using the rudders broke free all the sealing crude, and port was leaking pretty badly.

Also always thanks for the advise….it’s always good to get input from someone who has already travelled the road.


Messi
1988 41C
’Salty Mess’

Just was working on my rudder logs.
It took a half-o-fraction of an inch per side to wiggle it up.
You just can not work on one side only to work it up.

For no better of a term to call it, calcium builds up against the bronze and near locks the male part in place.

Pending the mfg, there may be a nut on the threaded rod to screw up and help press it up.

Once you can get a rotating twist on it to help break that crud up, keep prying each ear up a bit.

I have to work on mine with out vision on it. Hopefully you can see yours.

 

[divert00]

If, as Ralph mentioned, calcium carbonate is locking the parts together, acid will dissolve this. Vinegar would be mild or you could step up to something stronger. Be VERY CAREFUL if you use something stronger. Protect eyes and skin….ventilate work area.

I have used this to remove the remnants of barnacles, but only outside the hull.

John McCarley

 

[Nick]

If, as Ralph mentioned, calcium carbonate is locking the parts together, acid will dissolve this. Vinegar would be mild or you could step up to something stronger. Be VERY CAREFUL if you use something stronger. Protect eyes and skin….ventilate work area.

I have used this to remove the remnants of barnacles, but only outside the hull.

John McCarley

I had the same problem last year and used a small amount of muriatic acid and a brush to dissolve the salt deposits holding the flange stuck.
Applied it at the top of the flange at the rudder shaft and w patiently let it do its work. Protective eyewear, gloves and ventilation a must!

 

[dsharp]

I would use Ospho before I used muriatic acid

 

[Messi]

Dropped the rudder. Started tapping. Worked my way up to a a 3 pound hammer and a brass prop shaft.

Finally came free.

Seems someone was nice enough to coat them with 5200, before installing.

 

[Messi]

So how many rounds of packing do these take? I pulled 4 out, but when re-installing, i'm not sure I can get more than 3. I compressed them, with the cup, but it still looks like 4 may be a struggle.

I was wondering if someone had added and additional round after the old stuff, and it started to leak. I've seen this before

Thanks

 

[jmooney]

I put as many rows that will fit and tighten them as much as I can .

 

[doc g]

If you tighten too much you'll lock the shaft or wear it out prematurely. The way I've done it is remove all old packing, then cut new packing at an angle , and stack as many rings with the ends not lining up then tighten just until it stops leaking. Use a week or two then re tighten just until the water stops and you should be good, also there is usually a spec for how many rings of packing go in the log. YMMV.......Pat

 

[jmooney]

We’re not talking about propeller shafts, rudder shafts don’t move enough to wear badly.

 

[Briankinley2004]

My 46C had the rudder assembly drawing in the gray box. Check there if you have your drawings. Mine shows 4 layers with staggered joints and says not to overtighten

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Speaking of the gray box, mine is broken at the hinge side and one of the latches has fallen off. So, I called Sam's and ordered a new one. Its not gray but black and the hinges and latches are of much higher quality. A good $80 investment to keep all of my boat papers safe and organized.