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Stiff Steering

  • Thread starter Thread starter solanderi
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solanderi

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
377
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
I looked through about 4 pages of threads and didn't exactly see this issue addressed. I have a 1985 45C and we have had the small, routine service issues with the Hydaulic steering system that others have experienced and commented on.

However, almost every service person who has ever steered my boat in all the time I have owned it comments that the steering is too stiff. I don't have any other hatteras to compare it to and it is what I am used to so I dont complain. But I need a new project, I guess, so what can I do to improve the stiff steering. Thank you,

Greg
 
What fluid do you have in there? If it's ATF (red), it'll be much stiffer than with mil spec 5606?. Is there air in your lines?
 
If you really want to go hog wild you can disconnect the linkages and make sure you can turn the rudder by hand without too much trouble. (With a pipe wrench for leverage of course).
If not than you may have to haul the boat, drop the rudders and do a thorough cleaning, lubing and repacking.
 
just had a 52 SD in the yard that had stiff steering we took the steering ram lose from the rudders and you could turn the steering wheel from port to stbd with two fingers. the packing in the rudder ports had been installed wrong and was almost like a rock. repacked and steering was ten times easier.
 
Thank you for the speedy and informative replies. I have red fluid and the pressure gauge reads 39 psi. Are hydraulic lines a DIY deal or "not so much" ?

Greg
 
The red fluid will make steering much stiffer than the yellowish-clear mil spec fluid. I'd probably also drop the pressure down to 15 or 20 psi. You only need to have some pressure in the tank...more is not better.

You can do this yourself...but if you're not patient with SLOWLY turning the wheel stop-to-stop, it will be a whole lot more work and arrgravation than its worth. Have you ever worked on the steering lines before? Do YOU feel confident in trying it?
 
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Thank you for the speedy and informative replies. I have red fluid and the pressure gauge reads 39 psi. Are hydraulic lines a DIY deal or "not so much" ?

Greg

Hydraulic lines are DIY for some and way too much work for others.

If you have the basic hynautic systems the parker hose and brass reusable connectors are a great way to go and you can do them yourself. The red is probably ATF and that has a tendency to get viscous when the temp drops. If you pull it apart refill with the right type of hydraulic and it should help. Also check the rudders for anything making them stick.
 
FWIW,

I have never worked with hydraulic lines before so I'll have to decide if I am feeling lucky. A related question, my shaft logs drip appropriately but the rudder logs are always bone dry. Never any sea water in or around them. Is that normal or maybe that does indicate that I am packed in a little too tight in that department, yes or no ? Thank you for the help.

Greg
 
no way to tell from here. If you pull the bolt out of the steering ram that attaches to the rudder you should be able to turn the rudders. If it is hard to turn separate them and see if one is worse than the other.
 
In addition to using ATF some boats are stiffer than others and the size of the steering wheel plays a role obviously. On a SF with a smaller upper helm wheel It will feel stiffer

On my 53 I can turn the lower helm with one finger, not the upper smaller wheel. I ve seen MY where you need more effort with the same wheel.
 
Note that Mil 5606 IS RED, just like some types of ATF so red fluid could be either one. Hynautic fluid is usually clear-yellowish but it costs 4 times as much as 5606B. 5606B is as close to a "world standard hydraulic fluid" as you can get.
 
For once and for all the Atf is NOT stiffer in cold weather than the 5606 its a myth perpetuated by peeps who dont know. My boat has had ATF in the system for 43 years and Ive run it in 20* weather and 100* it steers the same with one finger. IMHO the 5606 it thicker at any temp. But I cant find the viscosity on them.
 
Not related to temperature, but Hynautic does state "Heavier oils, such as automatic transmission oil Type A or Dextron II, may be used but will cause harder steering" in their own publication regarding filling, pressurizing, and purging the system (first paragraph of this document: http://www.fishing-catalog.com/hynautics/purge1.pdf ).
 
Not related to temperature, but Hynautic does state "Heavier oils, such as automatic transmission oil Type A or Dextron II, may be used but will cause harder steering" in their own publication regarding filling, pressurizing, and purging the system (first paragraph of this document: http://www.fishing-catalog.com/hynautics/purge1.pdf ).


They were wrong Not everything put in writing is gospel. IMHO stiff steering is more a result of overtightened rudder packing and line size and length of run than it is a slight difference in the fluid viscosity.
 
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I have seen three versions of hynautic instructions. The hard copy that came with our 1980 53MY states that 5606 is the best but ATF can be used with the result of stiffer steering. I have also seen hynautic instructions that state 5606 is best but ATF is OK with no warning about stiffness, AND I have instructions that say to use Hynautic Fluid but ATF is OK.

The recommendation change from 5606 to Hynautic fluid occurred (surprise, surprise) when Hynautic figured out there was some money to be made by packaging hyd oil and selling it for 4x the price of 5606.

I had always assumed that 5606 was better than ATF as described in my Hynautic instructions and I purged/replaced all fluid in mine with 5606. But in light of the fact that they eliminated their ATF "stiffness" caution while making no change to the mechanicals, I now believe that there is no difference in performance.
 
Perhaps 'Myth Busted' after all. Sure many glad to hear it as instructions recommend 400 revolutions of the wheels on dual station system just to purge air which would be required with fluid replacement.
 
Not related to temperature, but Hynautic does state "Heavier oils, such as automatic transmission oil Type A or Dextron II, ).


I am a newbie on this forum so far be it for me to correct anybody, but I just thought I would throw it out there for the sake of interest. I am not picking on anybody.
The GM transmission fluid is called Dexron, not Dextron.
I have been in the Automotive industry most of my life and can count on one hand how many times I have heard it said correctly.
I wonder why most everybody, including myself, sticks the T in there?
 
Same reason people say "irregardless" instead of regardless, "nuke u ler" for nuclear, Calvary for cavalry and "reel la ter" for realtor...because they can! ;)
 

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