Stiff engine controls

[eze2bme]

1979 43DC with DD 671N's. The flybridge engine and tranny controls are "stiff" to move. The lower bridge controls are very easy to move either shifting trannys or throttles. I have Glendinning synchronizers. Is there a prescribed lubricating schedule for these Morse cables or control heads?? There appears to be "grease" on the control heads where they rotate inside the housings. I'm thinking about trying to squirt WD40 to lube the insides of the cables. Yes or No?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[spartonboat1]

Same boat, diff year (1972), same problem- stuck or stiff cables. While backing down, she would not respond to my attempted gear change, and I discovered how rapidly I can descend to the lower bridge. So I currently have all the upper cables disconnected.

When it is all said and done, my way out is going to be to install a new set of Morse "red" cables; since they lasted 30+ years, I'll stick with the red's. The ends of the cables in the engine room are stamped with the code for model of cable, which I have documented. Next is perform the replacement.

She's in the water, at the dock, and life is good...

 

[Traveler 45C]

From what I’ve heard it’s useless to lube them. Replacement is always recommended.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I can't imagine how the controls from one station are stiffer than the ones from the other station. They each end at the same spot, so when you move one, the other one moves at the same time. We have a gas engined 36C and each tranny has 2 cables attached as does each carburator. They have to move together and any stiffness should appear at each stations lever. Maybe I am confused???

 

[ADaily3224]

I had the same exact issue on a 38 I had with 671's, both clutch and throttle cables were stiff, bridge location, while the salon helm was fine. I tried the lube program and was unsuccessful. New cables installed, everything was fine.

Tony D

 

[NAN-PO 41]

I have the same problem on my 41tc. Upper throttles are stiff while lowers are o.k. Been there before and have already learned to just replace the cables. I did find an easy way to do that. I made a small connector out of a piece of 1/4" round stock by drilling both ends and tapping to 10-32 thread size. Then grind a taper on the ends with a bench grinder. Remove the end off of the old cable and connect the old and new cables together with the connector, spray silicone lube on the outside of the new cable and pull the new cable into place with the old cable. In one step the old cable is out and the new one is in. The taper on the ends of the connector will keep it from hanging up on anything while pulling the cable through. You could also cover the cable ends and connector with heat shrink tubing if you are concerned with hanging up on wiring or anything.
Good Luck, Fred

 

[jim rosenthal]

These cables cannot be greased. Replacement is the only option. Note that a thicker cable is not necessarily better, as the inside element is larger, thus creating more frictional area. Use the thinnest cable that will do the job. Good quality regular-gauge cables (Morse, Tflex, Uflex, any of the good ones) will be fine. Also note that securing the cable to prevent lash is essential for good cable system performance, as is making sure that the cables are properly secured on both ends and that the spacing etc are correct. Most of these problems are caused by cable aging and increased friction. A few years ago I replaced all my cable systems and the amount of rust and deterioration I found in my Morse cables was incredible- and they still worked, although not well.
Also note that greasing the cable ends BEFORE the new cables are installed is a good idea, and may prevent the entry of moisture which corrodes them. The internal cable is stainless steel, but frequently there isn't enough fresh air in there to maintain the oxide film, and the cable corrodes.

 

[MikeP]

As suggested, I'd replace the cables but If you want to try lubricating them, do this:

Disconnect the cables at both ends. Get a piece of hose about a foot long that will fit around the ferrule of the outer case of the cable. Clamp the lower end of the hose to that ferrule on the upper ends of the cable. You will now have the hose clamped to the ferrule and extending a foot beyond the end of the cable. Arrange something to hold the cable/hose in the vertical position. Place the lower end of the cable in a container. Fill the hose with Marvel Mystery Oil and leave it until the next day.

The MMO will work its way through the cable assembly and into the container you have placed at the lower end. Reinstall the cable(s). (I'm sure Jim R uses a similar technique to lube the cables on his Commando)

This works SOMETIMES but it depends entirely on the internal condition of the cable. New cables work all the time!

 

[eze2bme]

Thanks for all the great input guys. I think that since my boat has been in only fresh water (ergo - should be less rusting inside the cables) I'm going to try the MMO technique first ... I have nothing to loose! If the MMO doesn't ease the friction then I'll just replace the cables. Thanks again.