Starting stale engines

[Docs Holiday]

Any suggestions re. Starting 6v92 detroits that have been sitting for 18months? Yard now tells me they have not been turning them over!

 

[MikeP]

I'm ASSUMING that the engines are just sitting as last operated, not specially prepared for storage...

If they have block heaters, I'd run them for a while to get the temps up.

You might consider using a fresh container of Diesel and temporarily connecting the fuel feed line to use the fresh fuel. I've had no trouble using very old diesel and, to be honest, I wouldn't bother with this unless the engine won't start after the following:

if the engines/systems were OK when last run, aside from checking the oil and coolant level AND that the RW intake seacocks are open, I would bar the engine over by hand for a revolution or two. If it rolls normally I would then hold the governor rod in the "off" position and engage the starter, letting the engine spin for several seconds to build up some oil pressure and then release the rod to allow fuel into the injectors.

Then just let 'em run/observe that all is OK and that oil pressure comes up to acceptable levels; check exhaust immediately after starting to be sure water is flowing normally.

After the engines are at a reasonable temp, shutting down/changing oil would be a good thing.

 

[rsmith]

I would NOT try to start them without an experienced Detroit mechanic poised at the air shutdowns. In fact I would pull the valve covers and make sure the racks are free. I recently had one of mine run away and barely got it shut down before it grenaded. 18 months your cylinders are probably full of rust too. If it was mine I'd pull the injectors and air box covers check for stuck rings and roll the engines over with no compression. Maybe pour some marvel mystery oil down the cylinders to work the rust out.

 

[Boatsb]

X2 on checking the racks. Even if they were rolled over once in a while it's good to double check. Dave and Derek would be great sources of information for the process.



Also the air door is a must check. After sitting there could be rust on the air door shaft and springs. If so replace the bad parts.

 

[MikeP]

I certainly can't argue with the recommendations for doing all that pre-start checking. I wouldn't bother with it on engines that are known to me as far as condition/situation but I have to agree it's an excellent way to approach it.

Mechanic standing by? Well...OK.

 

[Boatsb]

I certainly can't argue with the recommendations for doing all that pre-start checking. I wouldn't bother with it on engines that are known to me as far as condition/situation but I have to agree it's an excellent way to approach it.

Mechanic standing by? Well...OK.

Why not Mike?

Not everyone knows the detroit art of setting the rack.

Having been in the business for over 30 years I still go to the experts when I can. Thats why they get the big bucks and I can assure you the cost of an hour or two for someone to double check it beats the repairs from what we would all tend to assume to be OK but wasnt.

 

[rsmith]

I certainly can't argue with the recommendations for doing all that pre-start checking. I wouldn't bother with it on engines that are known to me as far as condition/situation but I have to agree it's an excellent way to approach it.

Mechanic standing by? Well...OK.

Yes Mike! Someone who knows how to trip the airshutter door needs to be at the ready with their hands on the linkage. Seconds count when one of these engines run away and you don't want some fumble finger boob panicking! Your advice is fine for a couple months of inactivity but we're talking over a year and a half!!!
WTH Mike? Your the guy that self admittedly makes a 10 minute job into a 4day project yet you let an engine sit for almost two years then push the button and hope?

 

[MikeP]

"WTH Mike? Your the guy that self admittedly makes a 10 minute job into a 4day project yet you let an engine sit for almost two years then push the button and hope?"

There does seem to be some inconsistency there, doesn't there?

As I have said many times - we do what we are comfortable with. If an engine will rotate manually (bar over) I PERSONALLY would just start it assuming the checks with oil/coolant levels are OK. That's what I would do. I agree that the air doors should be "manned" but if you do this start from the ER (you should, IMO), you can release the air doors right there if you need to and if you are starting from the helm, the air door release is at the helm.

OK, IF the owner totally does none of their own work and is unfamiliar with the boat engines/systems other than to know how to press the start button, then I totally agree with doing all that other stuff prior to startup. I have generally assumed that folks here are somewhat familiar with all this but I maybe be totally wrong about that.

So yes, your way is a better way.

 

[Boatsb]

Racks stick. After sitting I would pull the valve covers before cranking. If the racks stuck bad things will happen. And they do stick from sitting. It's not hard to work them loose. Just saying with the crap we have for fuel today to begin with to be more careful than cowboy.

 

[MikeP]

Yeehaw!

 

[Docs Holiday]

I'm am glad I asked.....I will have a DD mechanic check out the motors prior to firing them up. Thank you .

 

[Glory]

That's likely the cheapest way to go.

JM

 

[SKYCHENEY]

On a truck we don't worry about runaways since we can just pop the clutch with it in a high gear and kill it. On a boat, I would be more concerned about a stuck rack. And, some of the 6v92's did not come with air doors, so have your hand on the fuel valves.