Stanchions

[Photolomy]

I am ready to redo the stanchions on the flybridge in the back. A couple are leaking so I am going to pull out all 4, hole drill, fill with epoxy and remount using backing plates (on the aft deck ceiling). I was planning on using WestSystem products. Any tips on what filler to use? Essentially, I am going to use a hole saw to cut 4" holes leaving the bottom skin and then remove another 1/2" of core on the sides of the holes and fill with epoxy. After that cures, I will drill holes for the stanchion bases and use bolts and a backing plate on the underside.

 

[SEVEN]

Might I suggest removing the core in that area completely and filling it with epoxy. This way if it leaks again it won’t enter the core and it will make those areas much stronger.

 

[Scarlett]

The West Colodial Silica is the strongest of the fillers, but cannot be sanded to a smooth surface. If you do the bulk of the filling with that, then use 410 filler for final fairing. John

 

[Photolomy]

That is my intent, to remove the core and fill the holes entirely with epoxy. I meant what kind of WestSystem filler to mix with the epoxy.

 

[Photolomy]

The West Colodial Silica is the strongest of the fillers, but cannot be sanded to a smooth surface. If you do the bulk of the filling with that, then use 410 filler for final fairing. John

This will work, thanks. Actually, the flybridge has a non slip surface so I may not have to use the 410.

 

[jim rosenthal]

The combination of West epoxy and colloidal silica is roughly as hard as granite. Keep that in mind when you mix up the compound. There is some good information online from Gougeon Bros about mixing their various fillers. That combination is tough as nails but difficult to work once set up.

 

[Cricket]

I would not fill a 4 inch hole with epoxy mixed with filler, it's way to big of an area. My suggestion is either to epoxy Coosa board or G10 fiberglass into those holes. No matter what you're still going to have to glass over the repairs or just the seems if you epoxy the skin back down. the seems or everything is going to crack.
Think the suggestion of doing the entire area night be best, peel the skin so you can glue it back down, and repalce the bad balsa with Coosa or another foam core and or G10 where the stanchions mount.
Also, you do not need to buy West's over priced fillers, regular Cabosil works great. We've been mixing wood flour and cabosil and 3m glass bubbles together for years for almost all of our projects/repairs, have moved away from microballoons.

 

[Toolsntoys]

Personally I would dig out the hole completely and remove the balsa and fill with g10 1” board. And then finish with 1708 and epoxy. I wouldn’t be shocked though if the core is wet. G10 can be drilled and taped.

 

[SEVEN]

These are all good suggestions. Let us all know what you decide and send photos. Best of luck.

 

[MadHatter53]

If it's a smaller spot you could try the gorilla glue method. I had just re bed my stanchions this past season, I left everything together and moved in one piece after unscrewing from the bases and side rails. All my screws were tight except one and I sounded each spot with good results so I layed some nice beads of 3m 4000 and screwed it back down.

 

[Pascal]

The 405 filleting blend is strong enough for that, honestly any filler will do except the 410 fairing fillet

 

[q240z]

I'm with Cricket on this one.

I've found US Composites epoxy to be great stuff and far less expensive even with shipping from FL than West System. G10 is great, but bulk cabosil and wood flour fillers are fine, too.

If the stanchions are stainless, this would also be a great opportunity to hit them with sandpaper to 1500 grit, then polish with a buffing wheel. Polished stainless is comparable to chrome and really makes the boat "pop," IMO.

 

[SEVEN]

I'm with Cricket on this one.

I've found US Composites epoxy to be great stuff and far less expensive even with shipping from FL than West System. G10 is great, but bulk cabosil and wood flour fillers are fine, too.

If the stanchions are stainless, this would also be a great opportunity to hit them with sandpaper to 1500 grit, then polish with a buffing wheel. Polished stainless is comparable to chrome and really makes the boat "pop," IMO.

Absolutely about polished SS. I even polish the screw heads. It pops.

 

[Photolomy]

Only two of the stanchions have an issue, but I want to redo all four. They go across the flybridge, behind the driving area and in front of the dinghy. I am not peeling half of the flybridge to fix a couple square inches. I agree with the thoughts regarding the use of something like G10 (and epoxy) to fill the holes. Not just epoxy. I also agree that I need to put a new skin on, though I was trying to avoid glassing. What if I used 1/8" G10 to cover the hole and epoxy to the existing skin? There would also be a 1/4" G10 backing plate on the bottom. The top (1/8") plate would be 5" in diameter and the bottom (1/4") plate would be 4" in diameter, like the filler block in the middle. The stanchion would be in the middle and the through holes for the bolts would be through epoxy and G10 and the core would be far away.

 

[SEVEN]

Love it. What an artist. Send photos of the project.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Only two of the stanchions have an issue, but I want to redo all four. They go across the flybridge, behind the driving area and in front of the dinghy. I am not peeling half of the flybridge to fix a couple square inches. I agree with the thoughts regarding the use of something like G10 (and epoxy) to fill the holes. Not just epoxy. I also agree that I need to put a new skin on, though I was trying to avoid glassing. What if I used 1/8" G10 to cover the hole and epoxy to the existing skin? There would also be a 1/4" G10 backing plate on the bottom. The top (1/8") plate would be 5" in diameter and the bottom (1/4") plate would be 4" in diameter, like the filler block in the middle. The stanchion would be in the middle and the through holes for the bolts would be through epoxy and G10 and the core would be far away.View attachment 36069

Why do you even need the backing plate? Was that the OEM setup? Screwing into the G10 core you’re adding seems plenty good.

 

[Photolomy]

Why do you even need the backing plate? Was that the OEM setup? Screwing into the G10 core you’re adding seems plenty good.

Very possible. Thanks.

 

[Cricket]

My guess is once you open up the 2 bad mount areas there's going to be more damage to the core (bigger area) than what you're thinking. Hopefully I'm wrong and it's a simple repair..