Sea cocks port & starboard 1972 MY

[captwoodyb]

Greetings, Hauled out this week tending to a few routine problems . 1972 53MY classic. I was pleasently surprised the bottom continues to show no to minimum blisters. I can't believe how stubborn the sea cocks are for the 871 detroits. I can't budge them, never had this problem before but have not manipulated them much, don't want to force, will try tapping with hammer....anyone have any suggestions. None of the other sea cocks, all smaller froze up. Also filled the resivor on the hydraulic steering port engine room, pumped up to 30 lbs but no steering, Turned over 100 times, loose as a goose. I think I see the bleeder valves on square metal box near rudder shafts with two hoses coming in. Looks like a lock nut and brass am I correct? email is burritts@verizon.net

 

[stilespb]

If you have the Hynautics steerring system, the small block with 3 hoses and two screws in small lock nuts near the rudder cylinder is the relief valve unit.

There is a good info section elsewhere on SAMS site here that tells all. I think in the FAQ section, but cannot remember for sure. There are also other threads on freeing up seacocks. Use the search filter, or just enjoy reading through all the great stuff that has been posted.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Greetings, Hauled out this week tending to a few routine problems . 1972 53MY classic. I was pleasently surprised the bottom continues to show no to minimum blisters. I can't believe how stubborn the sea cocks are for the 871 detroits. I can't budge them, never had this problem before but have not manipulated them much, don't want to force, will try tapping with hammer....anyone have any suggestions. None of the other sea cocks, all smaller froze up. Also filled the resivor on the hydraulic steering port engine room, pumped up to 30 lbs but no steering, Turned over 100 times, loose as a goose. I think I see the bleeder valves on square metal box near rudder shafts with two hoses coming in. Looks like a lock nut and brass am I correct? email is burritts@verizon.net

Get yerself a socket driver adapter for your cordless drill, pour a Coke, lite up a smoke and spin away... The nut is 1-1/8" ws

 

[Angela]

I can't believe how stubborn the sea cocks are for the 871 detroits. I can't budge them, never had this problem before but have not manipulated them much, don't want to force, will try tapping with hammer....anyone have any suggestions. None of the other sea cocks, all smaller froze up.

Same here...my mains were seized to the point I could not move them. At the last haulout, I replaced them with new ones....and wouldn't you know...I can't budge them either, not even before the boat hit the water again. So, I'm all ears on this one.

 

[REBrueckner]

There are different old style seacocks...an easy one to loosen is the cone shaped type...just loosen the lock nut opposite the handle (if it is this type) and tap toward the handle with a hammer before removing the nut...remove the cone shaped valve, inspect and coat with water pump grease....reinstall and will be good for a few years at least before requiring another "lube job"...
To loosen in place, in the water, just loosen the lock nut and tap as described....work handle back and forth and snug lock nut just enough to stop water drip.....biggest problem isusually reaching the seacock nut...

New seacocks: seems like the type with SS ball and rubber washers/gaskets would NOT seize, but I have not used any....Any comments on this style????

Because there appears to be no metal to metal contact, seems like these should stay free moving....

 

[spartonboat1]

New seacocks: seems like the type with SS ball and rubber washers/gaskets would NOT seize, but I have not used any....Any comments on this style????

Because there appears to be no metal to metal contact, seems like these should stay free moving....

I have a 1972 43'DC with the SS ball configuration. They require a grunt to get them moving, but move smoothly, and require some effort. I usually grab some stationary object to help brace myself while opening, and sometimes while closing; but they always move. While out of the water, I pull the cover plates to clean and inspect the strainers, which I have had to replace one. I put a good shot of WD40 inside and out of each unit. I then work it full open/close a couple times. These are original and they are Groco, and the Groco kits are an exact fit.

So after nearing 40 years, they continue to look good. This is in fresh water.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Only problem is the seats scratch and they leak through... ws

Its a manly thing...

Doesnt count unless yer finger nails are black...

 

[REBrueckner]

If there is space in the vicinity of seacocks, an 18" length or so of PVC pipe is an easy way to gain leverage with the usual rather short handles...

 

[Will]

Many sea cocks also have one or two 1/4" pipe plugs in the body about half way between the top and bottom. You can remove the plug, insert a grease fitting, pump in some water proof grease then replace the grease fitting with the plug again. But, you have to get the valve handle to move at least a little at the start so you can work in the grease afterwards. My engine cocks were all but frozen and now work smooth as silk.
Will

 

[Bottom Gun]

We've got a pretty similar set up to yachtsmanbill. The seacock handle is very close to a stringer. We now keep one of those Sea Cock & Ball valve helper tools on each sea-cock. We use the side slots of the tool (because a hose also interferes on top) to get it turning and then turn the tool to the traditional "cheater pipe" position when we're clear of the hose. I can't tell you how many busted knuckles I used to get from these dang things. The valves are still tight to open and close but much easier with the tool. Thx.