rudder removal

[SKYCHENEY]

Those SS shafts are running bronze stuffing box material. They should be little worn. I'd be in there with a pick, because they should be loose in there, once the stuffing is all pulled out! Should fall out easily...unclear what the issue is with being "stuck".

Trans, couplers, not shaft logs.



New shafts are just as likely to fail as the old ones. Any defect could lead to failure. The old shafts have been tested for years, keep them. I'd be more concerned with thru-hulls, hoses, etc, than old shafts.

 

[danshat]

As usual you guys have probably saved me a few thousand dollars. I guess I'll just pull the shafts, clean them up, as well as the struts, and check the couplers and packing boxes. Thanks again.

 

[first230sl]

I am usually to quick on the brute force and ignorance so I didn't want to try a hammer until consulting the experts. A bigger hammer I will try Success with a big hammer. Thanks.

I am not sure by your note whether they came out for you. If not yet - do be careful about flaring the top of the rudder shaft by pounding on it.

I removed my rudders and re-bedded the ports a couple years ago. It was quite a job, and I, too, had some trouble removing the rudders. I did pound on them and flared one of them a bit before I caught my mistake. I fixed it up no problem, but wish I had been more cautious in the first place.

Pound away if you need to, but put a solid block of wood on top of the post before you do.

If they are already out - sorry for the wasted note.

Murray

 

[danshat]

@#%$*&*(&^% Your right! The port rudder fell right out the starbord one took the big hammer. After reading your note I went and checked and sure enough it is flared a bit at the top. I used a steel pipe and must have tweaked one side. Can I just grind it down until it fits?

 

[krush]

Heat...it's your friend

 

[Finalee]

Be very carefull when it comes to applying heat to something as bulky as a rudder log. Take into consideration that it is is bolted to the fiberglass hull, and fiberglass does NOT dissipate heat very well.

 

[krush]

Be very carefull when it comes to applying heat to something as bulky as a rudder log. Take into consideration that it is is bolted to the fiberglass hull, and fiberglass does NOT dissipate heat very well.

Common sense must always be followed. My comment was meant to use heat on the coupler.

 

[dsharp]

If you swelled the top of the rudder shaft you can grind it or use a rough cut file to make the shaft round again. The rudder shaft may have gotten slightly bent somewhere along its life and it can make it difficult to get the rudders out.

 

[first230sl]

@#%$*&*(&^% Your right! The port rudder fell right out the starbord one took the big hammer. After reading your note I went and checked and sure enough it is flared a bit at the top. I used a steel pipe and must have tweaked one side. Can I just grind it down until it fits?

Sorry I didn't see your note and respond earlier to save you the trouble.

But yes - I did some light grinding and fixed it up. It isn't a big deal (the metal is soft), but I thought it best to take off the flare so that it would be easier to reinsert, and so that I did not score the inside of the rudder port any more when it went back in. If your setup is like mine, it will also be hard to get the steering arm, packing holder (not sure of the correct term) and retainer back on unless you remove the flare.

I had a bit of a hrad time finding the correctly sized brass bolts for reinstalling the rudder ports. I finally did find them (and it cost a fortune to ship them to me) - so let me know if you can't find a source. I can probably dig it up somewhere.

Take care and have fun. It requires a bit of brute force - but I recall enjoying the job overall.

Murray