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rudder removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter danshat
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danshat

Active member
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Jun 16, 2007
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143
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
34' DOUBLE CABIN (1963 - 1966)
I'm sure I must be missing something obvious but I can't get the @#$% rudder out of the rudder port. I disconnected everything and as far is I can tell it is the rudder port (minus the nuts) and the rudder post. I can't see what is holding it in. In the process of replacing prop shaft, skegs, etc. While I'm thinking about it can the rudders be cleaned up and reused? doesn't seem to be any damage just several years of barnacle growth. As always THANKS!
 
Once the lock nut and the packing nut are off the rudder should be able to be tapped out. But the packing will still be holding it and as old as your's is you may need a bigger hammer. Or a packing pick to get the packing out first.
Mike
 
You can get the packing picks from McMaster-Carr catalog.
 
I am usually to quick on the brute force and ignorance so I didn't want to try a hammer until consulting the experts. A bigger hammer I will try:) Success with a big hammer. Thanks.

Any ideas on the prop shaft. I can't seem to get the collar that attaches to the tranny off. I did remove the set screws. BTW the bigger hammer didn't help on this one!
 
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Some light oil would be a good idea too. Drip it from the top and work the rudder back and forth to get it working through the packing. It may just fall out after. Be ready.
 
Any ideas on the prop shaft. I can't seem to get the collar that attaches to the tranny off. I did remove the set screws. BTW the bigger hammer didn't help on this one!

I recently removed and replaced my shafts, and it was NOT fun. To get the coupler separated from the shaft, I sprayed everything with PB Blaster for 2 weeks. After I got the props off, the only way I could separate the coupler was to screw a large slide hammer onto the shaft, and go at it leaving the coupler bolted to the transmission. I know, I know, its terrible for the gears to be banging away at it, but I was left with no options, and I knew that would get things going.

While your shafts are out, be sure to replace the cutlass bearings!

Jason
 
The collar or coupling for the transmission is usually a tight fit and had a key PLUS set screws. Some have a split some don't. The way they come off is usually a puller or a BFH. Remember if you beat it off there is a good chance it will not be usable again and they are not cheap. They can be bent out of alignment and beaten out of balance so be careful.

The worst ones have had me cut the shaft behind it so I can remove it from the boat and use a press. Another one was rusted bad enough that I cut it apart with a grinder and left the shaft intact.

Send pictures and we may be of more help.
 
To remove the shaft you seperate it from the transmission. Remove the big nut and then add a spacer in front of the shaft. Then reatach it to the transmisson using longer bolts. Start each bolt work around and bang the collar is seperated from the shaft.

garyd
 
Gary that sounds like you are making a puller from the collars. It works unless something gets cocked. I have a socket I used to do that somewhere that I need to get a picture of. I eventually pulled the tranny to get more space to work on it. It was only a BW though.
 
To remove the shaft you seperate it from the transmission. Remove the big nut and then add a spacer in front of the shaft. Then reatach it to the transmisson using longer bolts. Start each bolt work around and bang the collar is seperated from the shaft.

garyd


My shafts did not have a nut inside the coupler. They were held together using a pin through the shaft and coupler, and two large bolts tightning the coupling down onto the shaft. I wasn't able to make a puller out of my coupler unfortunately. Just depends on the setup.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster for several days now. Still not moving. Since i'm planning on new shafts I think I'll just chop the shaft off and try it that way. I'll take some photos today and try and upload them.
 
Might be a good idea to figure the cost of replacing components prior to going extreme. Marine parts add up quickly, and rudders especially are usually reusable.
 
If you are replacing the shafts anyway it is a no brainer. If the shafts are good it makes no sense since they are expensive. Also what trans and couplers do you have. If the trans are the BW and the couplers are the ones with about a 3/8 face tou may want to pull the trans coupling too and have them cleaned up and machined if they are in bad shape. FYI the Nylock nut on the tranny should be replaced and do the rear seal too while you are in there. 80% of BW failures were blamed on the rear seal. Most of the leaks too.
 
I am not sure what tranny's i'm going to go with yet. I am doing pretty much a complete rebuild. I have yet to decide on the engines I am putting in. It looks like I can get new 1 1/2" shafts from Deep Blue Yacht Supply for about $700 each. They also seem to have quite a selection of engine couplings as well. As soon as I charge my camera I will post some pics.
 
If you have the engines removed the couplers are easy to get to and a harmonic balancer puller may do the trick. Look at the size shafts you need for the engine and trans combo before you rip everything out. You may find the existing gear to be fine.
 
not sure if they are reusable or not. I do know that the admiral said she would feel more comfortable with everything new:) Not sure if that is the same as a blank check or not. guess i'll find out.
 

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If the shafts are good keep them. Pull them out and have them checked but why but new if they are fine. If the engines are out get the couplers off and pull the shafts out. Find a good prop shop and have them checked.
 
I would try everything before I go cutting them. Even if you need a bigger dia the old stuff can be cleaned up, checked and sold!! It is worth something for sure!
 
I'd be curiuos as to how you plan to cut a stainless shaft. It's not as easy as you'd think.

Personally, I wouldn't change them unless you have a solid reason to. If they're worn out or damaged, fine. But to replace good running gear just for the comfort of "all new".... what about the hull, and the struts and the rudder ports and the rudders and so on? Marine components are getting shockingly expensive. Trust me. I'm still recovering from the price of two new rudders from last year. :eek:
 
Those SS shafts are running bronze stuffing box material. They should be little worn. I'd be in there with a pick, because they should be loose in there, once the stuffing is all pulled out! Should fall out easily...unclear what the issue is with being "stuck".
 

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