eze2bme
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2005
- Messages
- 880
- Hatteras Model
- 43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
OK .... after much deliberation I decided to tackle this project myself. My Isenglas had begun to age and was getting a "golden haze" after about two weeks from cleaning and polishing. It would clean up clear but then begin to get the haze.
I priced new Isenglas at $2400 and new EZ2CY at any where from $6500 to $9000 with Strataglass coming in the middle.
One day while walking the treadmill at the health club (it's amazing how many things I can work out in my head while walking) I began to entertain the idea of building the enclosure panels myself ... I figured that if third world countries could sew then I could learn! I went to the boat and studied the construction of the existing enclosures and made a few drawings. (OK ... I'm an Architect and we measure and draw everything!)
Off to Wally World I went to buy a sewing machine ... a Singer ... bottom of the line ... $125! Next I called the local supplier of plexiglass (GE Polymer) and found that .093" acrylic sheets (about 3/32" thick) were UV stabalized and could bend slightly without breaking. I located marine vinyl upholstery material and outdoor UV stable tread at the fabric store (JoAnn Fabrics) and found marine grade separating zippers (YKK #10) in the appropriate lengths online (Outdoor Textiles). My Isenglas made a rounded corner at the transom corners so I decided not to try and bend the acrylic (as I didn't have an oven large enough to heat the whole sheet) instead I ordered continuous plastic hinges online (TAP Plastics) to make this transition as well as hinging the panel at the boarding gate 10" from the top. These hinges have no pins holding the halves together rather a flexible vinyl - so no chance of leaks. No one could offer the best way to attach the vinyl to the acrylic so I made a test panel using high temperature hot glue ... and it worked great!
I cut a 6" strip of vinyl the width of a panel and folder it in half length wise ... stitched it 1/4" from the edge ... sewed a zipper on ... slipped the acrylic sheet between the two "flaps" of vinyl and hot glued it in place. Utilized the same procedure around the entire piece of acrylic and added necessary straps and snaps. I used each existing Isenglas panel as a template so as to duplicate the exact sizes and zipper orientations. (3" vinyl at top, 2.5" vinyl at sides and 6" vinyl at bottoms.)
20 hours later I had the nine panels made and inplace. Only time will tell ... but I think that this will work as well as or better than Isenglas. Since I never remove all of the panels when I'm underway, I added straps with snaps (three on each panel) at the two boarding gates and the transom gate so that those panels could be unzipped and snapped infront of the adjacent panel.
Novus makes several types of acrylic polish and scratch remover which I'll use to clean the panels. (This is the same product that pilots use on their wind screens and the Air Force uses on its jet canopies.)
If anyone would like to see some pictures please feel free to send me an email. Oh ... total cost including sewing machine = $600.
Tom
"Serenity" 1979 43DCMY
I priced new Isenglas at $2400 and new EZ2CY at any where from $6500 to $9000 with Strataglass coming in the middle.
One day while walking the treadmill at the health club (it's amazing how many things I can work out in my head while walking) I began to entertain the idea of building the enclosure panels myself ... I figured that if third world countries could sew then I could learn! I went to the boat and studied the construction of the existing enclosures and made a few drawings. (OK ... I'm an Architect and we measure and draw everything!)
Off to Wally World I went to buy a sewing machine ... a Singer ... bottom of the line ... $125! Next I called the local supplier of plexiglass (GE Polymer) and found that .093" acrylic sheets (about 3/32" thick) were UV stabalized and could bend slightly without breaking. I located marine vinyl upholstery material and outdoor UV stable tread at the fabric store (JoAnn Fabrics) and found marine grade separating zippers (YKK #10) in the appropriate lengths online (Outdoor Textiles). My Isenglas made a rounded corner at the transom corners so I decided not to try and bend the acrylic (as I didn't have an oven large enough to heat the whole sheet) instead I ordered continuous plastic hinges online (TAP Plastics) to make this transition as well as hinging the panel at the boarding gate 10" from the top. These hinges have no pins holding the halves together rather a flexible vinyl - so no chance of leaks. No one could offer the best way to attach the vinyl to the acrylic so I made a test panel using high temperature hot glue ... and it worked great!
I cut a 6" strip of vinyl the width of a panel and folder it in half length wise ... stitched it 1/4" from the edge ... sewed a zipper on ... slipped the acrylic sheet between the two "flaps" of vinyl and hot glued it in place. Utilized the same procedure around the entire piece of acrylic and added necessary straps and snaps. I used each existing Isenglas panel as a template so as to duplicate the exact sizes and zipper orientations. (3" vinyl at top, 2.5" vinyl at sides and 6" vinyl at bottoms.)
20 hours later I had the nine panels made and inplace. Only time will tell ... but I think that this will work as well as or better than Isenglas. Since I never remove all of the panels when I'm underway, I added straps with snaps (three on each panel) at the two boarding gates and the transom gate so that those panels could be unzipped and snapped infront of the adjacent panel.
Novus makes several types of acrylic polish and scratch remover which I'll use to clean the panels. (This is the same product that pilots use on their wind screens and the Air Force uses on its jet canopies.)
If anyone would like to see some pictures please feel free to send me an email. Oh ... total cost including sewing machine = $600.
Tom
"Serenity" 1979 43DCMY