replacing faucets in head

[oceanlivin]

Hi,

We are doing some renovations to our newly purchased 40 hatt dc, and are replacing the forward head marble top and faucet. Does anyone know what the fitting size is for the connection to the Hatteras hoses under sink? Can I use a Moen faucet or standard home style faucets? Also, any tips and tricks to get the sink/counter top out? Putting in corian top with sink, we have to demo first before the install.

Thanks,
Marilyn
Lady Catherine
Hatteras 40 DCMY

 

[Angela]

You can use a standard faucet. Hatteras used flare fittings in the plumbing. I was able to connect a flare cut off valve (Hatteras didn't install cut off valves, but I did) and then make the transition from flare to MIP with a Flare x MIP nipple. Then, just an ordinary braided wire covered hose will connect the faucet to the supply. Or, if the original "hard" plumbing matches/reaches, you can just screw the fitting back on the new faucet. I opted to change things a bit because I wanted cut off valves under each sink. I'd post a photo, but I don't know how to post a photo from the iPad and I'm still waiting for a new power cord for my laptop. I am currently in the process of re-doing all of my heads with new countertops, new sinks, new faucets, and new shower doors.

Be aware that if you have what I think we're called the Eljer Brenda sinks, you cannot use an ordinary faucet since the surface upon which the faucet mounts is not flat - it's something like a 45 degree angle and takes a special faucet to match that angle. If you're replacing the sinks, then no problem. I was able to buy a new sink for $39 at Home Depot that dropped back into the same hole and it looks basically the same, but without the big ridge across the back.

 

[Angela]

Let's see if this works - below should be a photo of the dry fitting of my new skin, sink and faucet.

 

[Angela]

Here is a photo of the new fittings I made up to get me from one place to another. I don't have it hooked up yet, but the stainless steel braided hose simply screws on to that elbow coming out of the cut off.

 

[SEVEN]

Great system Ang, I plan to put shut offs in this winter. As far as the faucet type. The previous owner installed normal faucets and although it struck me odd because it points directly at the drain they work really well. No splashing on to the counters. Only issue is filling a LARGE glass of water.

 

[oscarvan]

With enough trips to the plumbing supply ANYTHING can be mated to ANYTHING. Matter of perseverance.

 

[Timeout]

I added shutoffs also which allowed me to transition to the correct fittings. Also installed a Corian top with Corian sink. Original counter was glassed to the hull so I opted to just cut the sink hole larger to accommodate the new sink and had the top made like a shoe box lid to fit over the old top.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I opted to just cut the sink hole larger to accommodate the new sink and had the top made like a shoe box lid to fit over the old top.

I think this is best method if you want to update to solid surface or granite.

 

[Tampaparadise]

If I may offer up something I have found in the past. Those ball valves are great but they have ordinary steel handles on them. Some plumbing supply houses and other sources have stainless steel replacement handles and I highly recommend using those. It will save you the problem of rusting and failing eventually...

Mark

 

[oceanlivin]

You can use a standard faucet. Hatteras used flare fittings in the plumbing. I was able to connect a flare cut off valve (Hatteras didn't install cut off valves, but I did) and then make the transition from flare to MIP with a Flare x MIP nipple. Then, just an ordinary braided wire covered hose will connect the faucet to the supply. Or, if the original "hard" plumbing matches/reaches, you can just screw the fitting back on the new faucet. I opted to change things a bit because I wanted cut off valves under each sink. I'd post a photo, but I don't know how to post a photo from the iPad and I'm still waiting for a new power cord for my laptop. I am currently in the process of re-doing all of my heads with new countertops, new sinks, new faucets, and new shower doors.

Be aware that if you have what I think we're called the Eljer Brenda sinks, you cannot use an ordinary faucet since the surface upon which the faucet mounts is not flat - it's something like a 45 degree angle and takes a special faucet to match that angle. If you're replacing the sinks, then no problem. I was able to buy a new sink for $39 at Home Depot that dropped back into the same hole and it looks basically the same, but without the big ridge across the back.

Perfect! I have sink and bowl all in one marble like product. I am sure it was original hatteras. I am having replaced with corian, built in bowl, new faucet. The fittings under are so corroded I could not tell the size of connections. It will be fun...
Thanks!
Marilyn

 

[oceanlivin]

Here is a photo of the new fittings I made up to get me from one place to another. I don't have it hooked up yet, but the stainless steel braided hose simply screws on to that elbow coming out of the cut off.

Wow! that is really great plumbing work!! Impressive. I am not sure if I want to install shut offs, may do that another time.
Marilyn

 

[oceanlivin]

I added shutoffs also which allowed me to transition to the correct fittings. Also installed a Corian top with Corian sink. Original counter was glassed to the hull so I opted to just cut the sink hole larger to accommodate the new sink and had the top made like a shoe box lid to fit over the old top.

Kevin,

This is my nightmare! I hope mine is not glassed in. What year is your boat? Here is a picture of what I have.

What are methods of cutting out?
Marilyn

 

[oceanlivin]

Let's see if this works - below should be a photo of the dry fitting of my new skin, sink and faucet.

Very nice!!
Marilyn

 

[Timeout]

I can't tell from the picture if yours is solid or a skin on top of wood. Mine was Formica on wood and I just used a saber saw to cut the sink area large enough for the Corian sink. I needed to do a little extra cutting in the front of the sink to make room for the overflow on the sink. Careful when templating. On mine, the back was curved to match the hull curve. Whoever is building your counter should be able to do that. I did my own cutout to save installation time.

On the wet bar, the top wasn't glassed to the hull but it was screwed to the counter prior to adding the Formica so I used the same method. I'll see if I can get some pictures this week.

 

[Timeout]

Here Are Pictures:

 

[Timeout]

Some more pictures:

 

[drburke]

Nice Kevin! Very clean installation!

DAN

 

[oceanlivin]

Here Are Pictures:

View attachment 20462View attachment 20463View attachment 20464

That turned out awesome! I havent seen too many kitchens with upgrades on the site. Really well done!! great idea on the bar top as well. I will post when I have ours installed. Marilyn