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Replacing Belts

  • Thread starter Thread starter MicroKap
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MicroKap

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Apr 12, 2005
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Hatteras Model
60' CONV -Series I (1978 - 1986)
This weekend, the belt on my port engine shredded. Everything continued to work fine, but I obviously need to replace it. I'm going to replace the starboard belts as well. Other than flinging the belt pieces all over the place, is there any damage that this could have done? The alternator spins freely. I have the replacement belts, but need some instruction on the replacement procedure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was also told that the ribbed belts are much better than the plain because they will cool better.

Larry K.
1980 60' Sportfish
 
What engines? And what is driven by the belts besides the alternator?
 
Larry,

If it's like every other one that I've seen, it's simple. First, I'm surprised that there's only one belt. With engines and alternators of your size, they usually run twin belts. Check the pulleys and see if there are twin grooves on the engine and alternator pulleys. If there are, use twin belts. If you have the original setup, you can call Sam's Marine (this website) or Hatteras (links) and get the right belts. If not, maybe your old belt or starboard belt still has the legible numbers. So get the right belts, always replacing both belts of a twin belt drive, and then:

1. Turn the power off, just to be sure. This can be done with power on, but you can't touch any wire terminals with metal tools.

2. Remove the belt covers, if any, by finding the bolts that hold them on and removing.

3. Look at the alternator to determine which bolt (usually just one) is the clamping bolt for adjusting. Most alternators have a big long bolt at one end that goes through a frame or sleeve and holds the alternator onto the engine. This long bolt is a rotation point to allow the alternator to swing in and out from the engine pulley, which adjusts tension on the belts. The other bolt is a short one that clamps the alternator to a slotted arm that lets the alternator move when the bolt is loose, but holds it tight when the bolt is tight.

4. Loosen, but don't remove the nuts on both bolts. Move the alternator towards the engine pulley so you can slip the new belt(s) over both the engine and alternator pulleys. Pull down with your hand to tighten the belts against the pulleys, making sure they're aligned in the pulley grooves.

5. Tension the belts. Frequently you can put a long, heavy thing like a hammer handle or a length of pipe between the engine and the alternator body to get good leverage to tighten the belts. While there is tension on the belts, tighten the clamping bolt to hold the tension. Then tighten the other bolts holding the alternator. Don't overtighten and break these bolts. You probably can't overtighten them with a 5 inch handle wrench or socket wrench, but you can with an 8 inch handle.

6. Check the tension. The belts should "give" about 1/2 inch or so when pushed or pulled like a bowstring. Twin belts should have the same tension on each one (they will if you replace them in pairs.

7. Replace the cover.

8. Turn the power back on and get a reading from your helm battery voltmeters with the engines off. Then run the engines and go watch the belts. They should run true. Check that you're getting more volts on your helm voltmeters after starting the engines than you had when the engines were off.

9. After a few hours running time. Check belt tensions again and adjust if necessary.

Doug Shuman
 
Would also like to recommend using cog or tooth belts as these seem to wear better in heavy duty applications.
 
The engines are 12V71TIs. They are set up as a twin belt setup. It looks like the only thing running off of belts is the alternator. I'll be replacing the belts on both engines to be sure so it's easier to record in the "maintenance" log. I have two Dayco belts that are ribbed on the flat side (side that shows outward). I'll pick up a couple more and make my way down to the boat tonight to take care of it.

Thank you for your help.

Larry K.
 

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