Replacing battery cables

[J's Dream]

I am getting ready to replace all the battery cables on the boat. After reading several threads about this, I still have some questions. Some mentioned relocating the battery switches to a more open/convenient location. On a Series I 45C or similar, has anyone found an ideal location out of the ER?

Any recommendation as to new switches? How are the heavy duty Guests?

Also, seeing as though the ABYC color codes have changed, should the negative cables be replaced with yellow rather than black?

I am looking to replace with 4/0 cables. Other than GenuineDealz, has anyone found a reasonable price for these cables without sacraficing quality?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Boatsb]

25 foot puts of 4/0 ( or 0000) is about $210 plus tax. Is that better?

 

[Boatsb]

I think I can get a qty break too.

 

[bostonhatteras]

i did everything you just mentioned. the original switches went onto the aft bilge/engine room bulkhead on either side of genny. i also have the same boat. i could email pics if you want to see how i did it.

 

[Pascal]

not familiar with your boat layout but try to install them outside of the ER so you can get to them in an emmergency without getting in the ER.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey J... after working at this motor shop for a few months, the magic word of wisdom is DO NOT USE CHINESE CABLE! We get chinese locomotive parts in (wouldja believe to replace the OEM EMD and General Electric motors???) and the the ONE INCH diameter cable is JUNK.
Follow the Chill thred ya bum!!! ws

 

[GJH]

Where in FL are you? It may be worth calling Battery Sales in North Miami (305 891 8355) DC Marine Systems Miami (305 758 5041) or Lauderdale Alternator 954 525 5557, East Coast Battery and Electric 954-522-2403. Any of these guys may have some laying around they will make you a deal on. Make sure you specify marine grade, they all know what that means. Sometimes Sailorman in Lauderdale will also make you as deal, ditto Sailors Exchange in St Augustine who may have some scrap. Shipping cost can eat up the savings on the internet real fast; this stuff is heavy!

I did a battery project down here last year and all these guys were helpful, though the best place I ever got 4-0 was from the Jarrett Bay Surplus store in Beaufort, NC.

And yes, black is still fine for battery cable. But I guess if yellow is the same price, why not?

 

[J's Dream]

I am in Melbourne, half way from Miami to Jacksonville. To complete the whole job, I would need 38' red, 24' black/yellow unless I moved the boattery switches, and then I would have to reconfigure the red length.

Price online from GD is $7.74/ft with free shipping, regardless of color, so $480 for all of it, plus the ends of course.

Any ideas as to where outside the ER to locate switches, and not look awful? Otherwise, I can simply replace the large OEM ones and put the new, smaller ones in the same place.

Jason

 

[TedZ]

That is the wrong price. 4/0 welding cable (the best) or battery cable (not quite as flexible or with as good an insulation) is $2.50 a foot in all electrical supply houses that i use.

Example http://www.wesbellwireandcable.com/Welding/Welding4_0.html

Measure the lengths you need and go to an electrical store...in this day and age most will sell to you. Call first. Have them cut the cable the lengths you want. Bring a razor knife to strip the wire ends. Pick out the 4/0 connectors you want right there and buy a tube of anti-ox ($5.00). Anti ox the stripped ends and crimp the connectors on right in the store borrowing their crimper. You will save a ton of money. Electricians do this kind of thing frequently for just a few crimps.

Smile a lot!

Ted

PS Use the anti-ox whenever you crimp anything onto copper wire, anything like blue and yellow connectors especially.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I need some clarification here... Every day when I get to work early, I sit in my truck with a coffee and go over my notes from last weeks boat work and next weeks planned stuff. I got confused looking at my hand drawn schematics and dont have my OEM drawings here.
I know for sure that the Starting bank of batteries go to the starboard battery switch and are distributed from there along with the starboard engine, but it seems as tho the port engine is connected to the port switch. Does the house bank therefor go to the port disconnect switch? I'm sure this will get straightened out later this morning, but its driving me nuts since I cant remember... AND, this is with 5 pages of notes!!! ws

 

[Brian Degulis]

Try Pacer Marine for your cable http://www.pacermarine.com/ they are in Sarasota FL and Lauderdale. I'm not sure if they do retail sales if not PM me if you like I can get get for you?

Brian

 

[Boatsb]

I believe the main difference between Marine and welding cable is the Marine has tinned conductors that will not be as susceptible to corrosion. 40 years ago they were probably the same. I have what looks like the original cable in my boat in good condition. One of the few things the PO didnt screw up.

 

[TedZ]

I really don't know if that is right or not. I do know that welding cable is left out in the rain, snow and sun, dragged over steel girders, through grease, driven on, stepped on etc. etc. That means to me that the insulation is very good.

When you use anti-ox, an electrical item which is not never-sieze, the opportunity for corrosion at the connector-copper wire interface is eliminated.

In my experience most of the corrosion occurs at the connector - battery terminal interface which can be minimized with a lot of spray on terminal products or grease.

Ted

 

[Boatsb]

The other difference may be the plenum rating of the marine cable compared to the welding cable.

 

[TedZ]

That could very well be. Something i don't usually check but in an engine room it could be important.

Ted

 

[captddis]

All the Hatts up to the late 80's had welding cable for batt cables. Personally I would not replace it unless there is a problem. The welding cable is not tinned, but it has withstood the test of time.

 

[Pascal]

welding cable is "ok" and indeed was used in the past but if replacing it, why not doing it right with tinned cable?

come survey time, the surveyor will probably write it up, why bother? If something else fails and cause a fire, dont' be surprised if your insurer declines coverage when they discover non marine, non tinned cable...

shop around... it will be a little more than welding cable, but worth it.

as to where you can locate the switches, you could mount them in an accessible cabinet so that they're not visible but still accessible. If you have an electrical fire, you dont' want to have to lift those hatches to kill the batteries.

 

[GJH]

Pascal is right. Welding cable is not ABYC kosher. The thinner strands make it more prone to wicking moisture, and the insulation on most versions is not resistant to diesel, has a higher tendency to absorb moisture and is softer. Certainly you can "get away" with using it, I still have a piece or two on my boat from POs, which I am gradually replacing.

If you're going to do something like this on a critical system, why not do it right?

 

[captddis]

welding cable is "ok" and indeed was used in the past but if replacing it, why not doing it right with tinned cable?

come survey time, the surveyor will probably write it up, why bother? If something else fails and cause a fire, dont' be surprised if your insurer declines coverage when they discover non marine, non tinned cable...

shop around... it will be a little more than welding cable, but worth it.

as to where you can locate the switches, you could mount them in an accessible cabinet so that they're not visible but still accessible. If you have an electrical fire, you dont' want to have to lift those hatches to kill the batteries.

Give me a break! They are going to decline coverage because of copper cable? Sea Ray still uses copper wire as did your beloved Maxum and Bayliner/ Meridian , Carver,Grand Banks, most Taiwan boats etc.... Not to mention the shore cord.

I agree that when replacing you should use tin, but no need to replace whats there.

 

[J's Dream]

If you're going to do something like this on a critical system, why not do it right?

This WILL most certainly be done right, using marine grade tinned copper wire. Saving a hundred dollars (or two) is not worth it if/when a problem arises.

I will continue to shop around for prices, and so far I found Guest 2304 heavy duty switches, seen below, at Marine Connection in Fort Pierce for $120 each. 600amp cont, 1000amp momentary.

Keep the ideas coming, thanks guys.

Jason