Removing the Galley Sink

[rswirtz]

Sorry if this is a repeat question, couldn't find anything using the search button.

Has anyone successfully removed their galley sink? I TRIED to remove the sink in the head once to replace the faucet and it was a nightmare. How do you get that metal ring off?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Timeout]

There are clips under the sink that need to be removed. Some may be difficult to get to but they mostly fall off if you unscrew them a little bit. Getting the ring off is another matter. Lots of caulk. You will need to run a putty knife around both the inside and outside of the ring and it is difficult to remove it without bending it. OK if your plan is a new sink. We added Corian to the galley, trashed the ring and undermounted the original stainless sink to the Corian. Very happy with the results.

... Kevin

 

[Traveler 45C]

That metal ring is part of the sink. It's caulked to the counter. You've got to run a knife between the metal ring and the counter to break it loose. That was the hard part. There are also brackets under the sink that hold it in place.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Warm the Ring/caulk with a heat gun first!! ws

 

[Traveler 45C]

Now ya' tell me...

I had a hell of a time getting my sinks out. I didn't think of the heat gun...

BTW, the ceramic sinks are real heavy.

 

[Beckytek]

Tried removing mine once. Removed all the clamps underneath but it wouldn't budge. They used 5200 to hold it in there. Decided to leave well enough alone and left it as is. I removed the sink in my guest head to replace the rusted fausets. Same problem 5200rd the thing in there. It tore all the formica up as it came out. I had to replace the formica top when I reinstalled it. Everythings fine now. Ron

 

[thoward]

I say somewhere that you can use paino wire to get in tight spots and slice the 5200.....

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I say somewhere that you can use paino wire to get in tight spots and slice the 5200.....

If youre feelin' lucky punk... Take some stainless or preferably MONEL wire and stretch it between two wood handles and hook a battery charger to each end. Use LOW amps or it will get RED HOT ! Do not forget the gloves ! Ive separated mahogany and teak that was glued with 5200 with no damage. I then scrape the stuff off with a beater wood chisel that I heat with the torch. The fumes really choke you tho...but whats a little BAIN DRAMAGE for a boat job??
Be prepared to move the parts NOW !! When the 5200 cools its like an instantaneous cure. Separating with wedges helps keep it apart too.
I did let a pal use the torch to heat the sink to lift it out and the Formica burned a bit. It was too much heat... oh well. Heat gun is easily controlled. ws

 

[rswirtz]

Thanks for all the great info!!! You guys are great

 

[DeeRow]

Has anyone tried Marine Formula for Debond, http://www.marineformula.com/, on 5200?

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I just watched the demo on their home page about freeing 2 pieces of aluminum with 4 month cured 5200. The best part was the demo guy ready to lay his plastic gloved hand open with the razor knife.
Now for the soapbox... Having owned an aluminum Roamer for 35 years and using 5200 for at least 22 of them, I can say they are F.O.S. I RARELY do anything to the aluminum without prepping it first. Rust creep on steel exerts about 3500 psi and aluminum corrosion has to be around 4000 +.
The test parts were UN-PREPPED and I can guarantee pulling them apart without the juice to at least 90% clean. Un profiled fiberglass is almost the same. 5200 is great stuff, but it takes a grained surface to hold it at 100%.
I wish they wouldve demo'ed it on some weathered mahogany or sanded metal or 'glass. It probably would be good for cleaning up window glass or stuff thats sensitive to scratching, but not to dis-assemble primed parts. Ill stick to heat or mechanical removal, but then again, thats just me. ws