Removing teak trim and fiberglassing-in the bow pulpit

[Tawney1]

The teak trim on our 1985 61' MY bow pulpit has deteriorated and rotted to the point where we must dig-it out and remove it or replace it. There's a considerable amount of teak there, and I also think that the current deteriorated condition of the teak is resulting in some leakage into the anchor rode storage area.

After digging the stuff out, rather than replace it, I would like to just fiberglass the area in and paint it. Has anyone done this before? If so, how did you go about it?

The questions I have are as follows:

(i) is the teak as originally installed structual in any way to the integrity of the pulpit itself-- which obviously holds the anchor and is subjected to concurrent stresses, etc.? It does not appear to be, but want to make sure it adds nothing to the structural integrity to the pulpit;

(ii) how should I go about glassing-in that area -- i.e., what materials would you guys recommend and what process to fill the holes left after removing the fasterners used to secure the teak to the pulpit and what mat, etc., to use, etc.

Many thanks for any help, observations or comments.

Paul

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The teak is not structural and it is not the cause of any leaking. If water gets under the teak, it will run aft to area where the two bolts are that hold the pulpit down. This is usually where it leaks in. Under the teak is fiberglass and then a heavy aluminum plate.

To check for leaks at the bolts, first pull off the two aft-most teak pieces. There should be two teak plugs that can be drilled out to reveal the screws. Then pry up the teak with a heavy putty knife (they stuck it down with 5200). If you don't repair/replace all of the teak or fill the area, you will have the bolt heads showing. One guy on our dock had his replaced with starboard. It looks fine and it fills the area.

I just finished stripping my teak and digging out and recaulking. It was very time consuming but it looks great now.

 

[Tawney1]

Sky, thanks.

The aft 2 teak pieces are so deteriorated they will not survive drilling to reveal the bolt heads or complete removal. I can push-in much of those pieces with my finger. Other teak, however, can probably be salvaged.

It appears that the PO in the past attempted this, but gave-up and epoxied (?) the aft pieces of teak to harden it.... Not good. Replacing the teak with starboard would be an alternative, but I am not sure I'd be happy with the look.

Since glassing-in the top would give the pulpit a solid look, that appeals more to me. Would glassing-in over the bolt heads be a bad thing?

 

[Beckytek]

Glassing over the bolt holes would be a bad thing if you ever needed to remove the pulpit as I have. If you remove the teak trim pieces there is fiber glass under it. It would be much easier to remove the teak, fill in the screw holes and compound and polish the fiber glass already there. You should provide some way to get to the bolts, maybe some plastic snap covers painted the same color to match. Ron

 

[Brian Degulis]

Hi we have the same boat. I don't see why you couldn't glass or epoxy over the bolts as long as you take them out and make sure they are in good shape if not of course replace them. The chances of having to remove the pulpit are slim and if you do have to remove it then you will have to grind down and expose the bolts not that big a deal.

I think I would consider filling in the recessed area a little or even completly to make it flush that would look better. I don't know much about glass work but maybe some sort of coring material to bring up the height?

Brian

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have seen pulpits with the teak removed and then just faired and painted. Then look fine with no filler at all and the the bolt heads are chomed so that looks fine too.

If the teak is in good shape other than the two aft "bolt cap" pieces, then why not just replace those two pieces and recaulk, then finish with oil or varnish? You could retain the original look and it would probably cost less than pulling it all out and filling it with glass.

 

[Nonchalant1]

Karl (Genesis) had that problem and in fixing that found it was caused by major water intrusion in the bow pulpit and decking core rot. It created a huge long thread about bow pulpit rot. Take the square access hole off of you pulpit and look inside around the anchor winch for water and/or rot. ALso look at the deck cores from below in the anchor rode locker ceiling if you can see it around the anchor winch switchplate and anchor rode deck hause hole. On mine, you can see some deck cores and it looks new and dry even though it's a 1978 boat. (lucky?)

Doug

 

[(Nobody You Know)]

ALso look at the deck cores from below in the anchor rode locker ceiling if you can see it around the anchor winch switchplate and anchor rode deck hause hole. On mine, you can see some deck cores and it looks new and dry even though it's a 1978 boat. (lucky?) Doug

From the v-birth inspect the entire underside of the winch bracket.

Mine was rusted so bad it had to be replaced. Fortunately I was able to get a metal fabricator to make a heavy stainless steel replacement winch bracket for less than Galley Maid.

A found a really good wood "technician" to go in with a router and gut out all the bad wood then replace with hardwood and glass over it. Everything was beautifully done.

Good luck.

Oh, I now have a nice winch and pulpit cover made to (help) keep water intrusion out. Also keep that *%#$^ useless teak covered too!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Most pulpits did not have an access hole cut in the aft end of them. This was most likely done later when someone needed to get in there to correct a water problem or to get to footswitch wiring.

As I said before, the teak is not the source of the leaks. It is solid under the teak except at the aft end where the bolts go through and the area of the hawse pipe if you have chain. The other area that can leak is around the windlass and associated bolts.