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Removing shaft coupling

  • Thread starter Thread starter Triskele
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Triskele

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Nov 16, 2012
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
Replacing cutlass bearings on a 1981 Hatteras DCMY. Need to remove the shaft. Can someone tell me how to remove the shaft coupling from the shaft? Have attached photos of the shaft and coupling.
 

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Hello, this is what is inside my coupling. Once the bolts are out of the faces you can slide the shaft backwards. Inside the coupling is a castle nut with a cotter pin, remove the pin and take the nut off. That part of the coupling can then be pulled off, you probably will need a puller.

Walt Hoover
 
I am thinking you can upgrade "probably" need a puller to "definitely" need a puller. One method is to back out the castle nut far enough that it will contact the output shaft of the gearbox. Then reinstall the bolts as though the job was done and the shaft was being reconnected. Work around the bolt patter to pop the shaft loose.
However, that will mangle the threads of the castle nut since it is most likely bronze or brass. Ask me how I know. Perhaps an old sturdy socket could be used instead. The yard we were in when I pulled the shafts had a plate that covered the end of the shaft. Back out the castle enough then install the plate and tighten it down till it pops loose.

Don't forget to eat your Wheaties in the morning.
 
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Run the castle nut backwards to use the full face at the base and a skinny plate to save the trans output shaft.
 
Any specific reason to remove the shafts? If you don't 'need' to pull the shafts for some reason, you can replace cutlass without pulling the shafts. It takes a special puller, but spending a few hundred dollars for a puller is WAAAYYY better than pulling a shaft in my opinion.
 
Any specific reason to remove the shafts? If you don't 'need' to pull the shafts for some reason, you can replace cutlass without pulling the shafts. It takes a special puller, but spending a few hundred dollars for a puller is WAAAYYY better than pulling a shaft in my opinion.

Do you have a reference for where to find a puller?
 
Thank you all for your replies and advice. Good stuff!
 
Strut pro makes one.
 
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I made my own cutlass bearing puller/pusher. I replaced all 6 bearings without pulling the shafts. It can be done.
 
Where are you? I have one you can use. You would still need to get the sleeves to match your shaft diameter. I have those for a 1.5 shaft.
 
If you can, I suggest pulling the shafts and doing a thorough inspection of everything, including inspecting the shaft for runnout (straightness). You can laser check the strut alignment, or just go with the fact that if you can slide the shaft back fairly easily (use dishsoap) then they are good enough.

Obviously, if all components have been inspected recently, no point in pulling the shafts.
 
Can anyone tell me the size of the nut inside the coupling or socket required to remove it?
 
Where are you? I have one you can use. You would still need to get the sleeves to match your shaft diameter. I have those for a 1.5 shaft.

Cool. Thank you for offering. I'm in a yard in Demopolis, AL. Have decided to attempt to remove the shaft. I don't have the half sleeves needed to dive out the bearing with the puller. I have 2"shafts. Also, I have two struts per shaft. This means to remove and replace the forward bearing I have to go through the aft strut. Suspect, about as much work as removing the shaft.
 
If you can, I suggest pulling the shafts and doing a thorough inspection of everything, including inspecting the shaft for runnout (straightness). You can laser check the strut alignment, or just go with the fact that if you can slide the shaft back fairly easily (use dishsoap) then they are good enough.

Obviously, if all components have been inspected recently, no point in pulling the shafts.


Agree. My thinking as well. Also doing shaft gland packing and rudder packing. Since on the hard, just as easy to pull all, clean and align properly. Thanks!
 
Last time I pulled my shafts (2.5 inch) I found both shaft nuts had lots of micro cracks. I believe it is well worth buying new ones.

Pete
 
Can anyone tell me the size of the nut inside the coupling or socket required to remove it?

Was able to measure wit set of calipers. Looks to be 2".
 
It's off!! Thank you all for your suggestions and advice.
 

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Any guesses which way the coupling was facing last time it was painted? :p
 

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