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Remote Bilge Water Extraction Device (Casual)

Cricket said:
I cheated and went the easy route, put in 3 Seaflo dry bilge units mid July. Placed the pickups in the 3 bilge sumps, forward, mid and aft, made a huge difference in reducing odors, so far so good. Next step is to add some additional pickups with some Y's and tubing in a few problem spots we have, also thinking about putting one in our gray water sump to make sure that's dry most of the time as well.https://www.seaflo.us/product/dry-bilge-system/
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I assume that your standard bilge system is still in place. Since you repowered and maybe no longer have the alarm panel. Do you have high water alarms on your standard bridges, and if so what system.
 
brettportzer said:
I have the same, it is from the shafts, in my case.

So strange that there are no pumps there.

I plan to add regular bilge pumps forward of both engines, and also, a dry bilge setup on each side.
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I get some rudder post water that drains forward to the ER sumps. It's not much unless I'm on plane. Then the extra pressure lets more seawater past the packing. Repacking and adjustment doesn't seem to do much.

But...that water used to find its way forward through the ER limber holes. I can't see why that has to be the case. Maybe no issue in freshwater, but old SW stinks. After playing around with it for a couple of months, I have semi permanently bedded 3/4" PVC standpipes in each ER sump.
IMG_2129.webp
This stops all bilge water from traveling forward. There is no bilge water source forward of the ER save a bit from sea strainer servicing. That little bit is easily evacuated by sliding the shop vac hose over the standpipe. The forward bilges are absolutely bone dry and odor free.

I know the standpipe solution will somewhat impede any flood water making its way aft to the ER sumps. But, the ability of bilge pumps to handle an emergency flood on their own is negligible. And the limber hole design was never designed to handle anything more than casual water. So, this little modification (that can be reversed) works well for me.
 
Eddieclemons said:
I assume that your standard bilge system is still in place. Since you repowered and maybe no longer have the alarm panel. Do you have high water alarms on your standard bridges, and if so what system.
Click to expand...

We're using Ultra Safety Systems sensors from the pump float switches (for-mid-aft) tied into their alarm product.
Sort of the same setup for fire in the ER and lazerette.

Will be adding N2k Maretron bilge and fire sensors over the winter as build out our N2k alarms and tank level gauges.
 
Cricket said:
We're using Ultra Safety Systems sensors from the pump float switches (for-mid-aft) tied into their alarm product.Sort of the same setup for fire in the ER and lazerette. Will be adding N2k Maretron bilge and fire sensors over the winter as build out our N2k alarms and tank level gauges.
Click to expand...
Bilge, tanks, temperatures, and electrical monitoring is definitely on my short list of projects that I have yet to do any research on.
 
My boat has a professionally installed Arid Bilge system if any of you want pictures of the install or whatnot. Personally I think it’s a waste of money, the former owners had it installed. Word was it was like $10k. Boat was out of the water last week repacking the shaft stuffing boxes and is coming back out next week for the rudders, all of which cost less than the Arid Bilge setup. I don’t know why they approached the problem this way instead of just fixing the leaks so the bilges stay dry on their own. The shaft stuffing boxes had never been repacked, I was down to the last skinny little broken ring of packing material. Those items are where 95% of the water comes in at least on my boat.
 
Our HOF member Jim Grove seems to like his Arid Bilge System

 
SKYCHENEY said:
Our HOF member Jim Grove seems to like his Arid Bilge System

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It does work, I’ll give it that. Maybe I’m weird I just like a dry boat and would prefer it didn’t have much work to do. Most of these boats are 40 years old and haven’t had the shaft or rudder stuffing boxes repacked, it’s not rocket science where the water’s coming from. On mine, especially the shaft seals, were dripping and turning into a steady flow underway. Every one of these I looked at for sale with the exception of one that had dripless were the same. Having taken it apart and seeing the crumbled fibers that were left, it should have been done 20 years ago. Instead they spent $10k on an Arid Bilge system.

If you have a sportfish water getting under the cockpit is always a challenge on any boat. If you have a MY there’s no reason you shouldn’t have a dry boat without extra help. Service the packing glands and route the a/c condensate overboard and the bilges will be dry.
 
I tend to agree. I just thought it was cool to see Jim and his 50MY on their site.
 
rustybucket said:
I've been assembling the pieces to install a dry-bilge system similar to several commercially available.

Here is the video to the design I'm sorta following. The concept is to have a diaphram pump that cycles 2 or 4 times a day for a minute or so. The diaphram pump sucks from a manifold of smaller surgical style tubing that runs to the various 'problem areas' that always seem to pool water. The idea is that when the pump cycles automatically a few times a day it keeps these areas dry.

I've already got the pump, still looking for an appropriate manifold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEFCPYiqdbg
Click to expand...

In the operating room where spills of fluids occur there are several devices you may be able to use instead of the sponge.check out website :https://www.aspensurgical.com/catalog/patient-staff-safety/fluid-management/floor-suction/

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I have been following this thread with great interest. So far I’ve eliminated all but two sources of water into my bilge well three if you include rainwater. I’ve routed all of my air conditioning condensation drains to the shower sumps. I would’ve thought that would have been done from the factory but not so. The last two sources of water are my non-dripless prop shafts and my rudders. This winter I plan to have my rudders repacked so that will eliminate that source.
I saw a YouTube video on the Seaflow Dry Bilge System. It’s a self-contained unit with a timer and manual on switch at a reasonable price, $149 on Amazon. Looks like I can tee off the line and add a few extra pick up points.
The problem is they only sell it in a 12v model. I see 24V to 12V converter‘s online. My question is has anybody purchased one they can recommend? According to the specifications the max draw is 5.5amps. I have one unused Newmar 24V converter but I believe that’s overkill and I’d like to add two of these systems, one for the forward half of the boat and one for the aft half of the boat.
Any suggestions?
 
Sadey said:
I have been following this thread with great interest. So far I’ve eliminated all but two sources of water into my bilge well three if you include rainwater. I’ve routed all of my air conditioning condensation drains to the shower sumps. I would’ve thought that would have been done from the factory but not so. The last two sources of water are my non-dripless prop shafts and my rudders. This winter I plan to have my rudders repacked so that will eliminate that source.
I saw a YouTube video on the Seaflow Dry Bilge System. It’s a self-contained unit with a timer and manual on switch at a reasonable price, $149 on Amazon. Looks like I can tee off the line and add a few extra pick up points.
The problem is they only sell it in a 12v model. I see 24V to 12V converter‘s online. My question is has anybody purchased one they can recommend? According to the specifications the max draw is 5.5amps. I have one unused Newmar 24V converter but I believe that’s overkill and I’d like to add two of these systems, one for the forward half of the boat and one for the aft half of the boat.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

On my boat it is wired to the same the stepdown converter that runs the electronics and I can't say I would recommend that. All the raymarine stuff has been giving me random and frequent "no pilot" and "position fix lost" errors. My electronics guy who's a raymarine dealer, says it's either the autopilot course computer or a voltage drop problem. But he could not replicate a voltage drop no matter what he turned on or off. I ordered a new course computer, so we'll see if it's that. After I had already ordered it, I remembered the AridBilge thing runs on a timer and realized that could be it. If it's not the course computer, the former owner installed a 3kw inverter and 12v additional house bank for it, I'm going to have it rewired to that.
 
Thank you Cricket I saw those and was hoping somebody here might have use those or similar ones. I’m going to order three of them myself for the same purpose you did.
I had a conversation a while back with Scott about navigation electronics all on a converter and the possibility of brown out situation from voltage drops.
 
The drybilge pump is a tiny little thing.
We have both 12v and 24v systems so we don't usually have to mess around with converters.
In this case we had some open 24v breakers in the front of the ER panel so we used them with the converters instead of running wires from the rear of the ER.
 
On the voltage converter (we called them stepdown transformers) I found the same one on Amazon so my only contribution here is the link for that. I found several different ones, including from 12-volt up to 24-volt, which we also referred to as bucking transformers. My experience initially was using them in golf cars, and in powering accessories in the cars. I used one to step down my 24-volt anchor light circuit to the new 12-volt anchor light I installed over the winter to replace the missing one when we bought Pau Hana.

Cllena DC/DC Voltage Converter Regulator DC 24V Step-Down to 12V 40A 480W Buck Transformer Waterproof
by Cllena
Learn more: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B4HL..._dp_PHSB0DB9XS7MHCTWQXD6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
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