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Rebuilding a Cruisair FX16C condenser

  • Thread starter Thread starter Reefgeorge
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 63
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After the compressor comes out, pour the oil out and test it for sludge and acid with one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nu-Calgon-4...649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e86caa251

If there was a burn out and you find acid and sludge, some additional cleanup might be in order - post back. Regardless, add an acid reducing filter/dryer (bi-directional if heat pump). I rigged up a small lineset coming out of mine with flare connections and attached it to the high side service valve flare on its way to the evaporator. The one I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARKER-BF-0...986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25d371b2

If you do this then you can also add a sightglass with moisture indicator to check progress. I did not bother.

Also, make sure that you leak test the system after installation and then make sure that you pull a 500 micron vacuum or better and make sure it holds before charging with refrigerant.

If you decide to skip the filter dryer and/or additional clean up make sure that the compressor oil was really clean and uncontaminated or you may be back at this with another failed compressor or a plugged evaporator cap tube, etc.

BTW, Cruisair or an authorized distributor will sell you a compressor but I bet it's $700.
 
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After the compressor comes out, pour the oil out and test it for sludge and acid with one of these:

http://www.grainger.com/product/NU-CALGON-Refrigeration-Oil-Acid-Test-22NV34?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/22NV34_AS01?$smthumb$
I can't get that link to work
 
I replaced it
 
George: my thanks to you and Milacron for this exchange--very informative!

DAN
 
How did this turn out?
Got the compressor in yesterday but the darn thing came with no mounting feet....just a welded bracket on the bottom ready to receive a plate with feet. So I figured maybe I can use the feet from the old compressor....but no way..they are 4 separate feet welded on the original. Called PTAC about it, they eventually come back with "oh that is an option, we will need to know that it goes on !" Seeing as I can't trust "what it goes on" will be the correct bolt hole pattern, I think I will just make my own mount plate... will know more later today about that.

In the meantime...

1. I did order the Parker dryer you recommended but I'm not clear it that is supposed to replace the original dryer or added to the line somehow. Can you clarify that ?

2. The new compressor's three outlets are in different locations from the original and not labeled as to what is what. My HVAC guy thinks he knows what is what but any way to know 100 percentfor sure ? (third line is crimped and sealed on original so we need to know which one to do that to on the new one)

FWIW, I did not order the acid test kit as my guy say's he's going to "flush the system" anyway.
 
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Got the compressor in yesterday but the darn thing came with no mounting feet....just a welded bracket on the bottom ready to receive a plate with feet. So I figured maybe I can use the feet from the old compressor....but no way..they are 4 separate feet welded on the original. Called PTAC about it, they eventually come back with "oh that is an option, we will need to know that it goes on !" Seeing as I can't trust "what it goes on" will be the correct bolt hole pattern, I think I will just make my own mount plate... will know more later today about that.

In the meantime...

1. I did order the Parker dryer you recommended but I'm not clear it that is supposed to replace the original dryer or added to the line somehow. Can you clarify that ?

Anytime you have to service a refrigerant circuit, you should add an acid removal filter dryer for clean up as a precaution. In bad burnout situations it is not optional and many also add a suction side filter which can be temporary or permanent. If the crud is bad enough the filters have to be changed as they get clogged and increase their pressure drop. The one I showed you is a bi-directional unit suitable for a heat pump. If you have cooling only then you only need a one way unit. Put the dryer in the smaller high side line after it leaves the condensing unit on the way to the evaporator or cooling unit as Cruisair calls it. I brazed flare filltings and short 1/4" copper lines on each end bending them to fit the unit so I can zip tie it in place. I attached directly to the high side service valve and the line connection for same. If you have access then you can also cut the high side line out in the open and braze the filter inline like you would normally do in residential AC.

2. The new compressor's three outlets are in different locations from the original and not labeled as to what is what. My HVAC guy thinks he knows what is what but any way to know 100 percentfor sure ? (third line is crimped and sealed on original so we need to know which one to do that to on the new one)

One line is the output or high side line and is usually smaller in diameter. The other two lines are usually both suction, one for the normal input to the compressor and the other one is a service port. This service port can either have a fitting brazed on or crimped and brazed shut. I don't know if they are interchangeable on all compressors but on mine the service port was the highest on the can. You reference a couple of variants on the compressor (EXD vs EXV) that you bought but here is a drawing for the EXD that may help:

http://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/Drawing-Data/North-America/Sales-Drawings/DCAE401-CHG-_H-C-C.pdf

Please confirm which exact model that you have.



FWIW, I did not order the acid test kit as my guy say's he's going to "flush the system" anyway.

Sounds like you have an adventure on your hands.

George
 
nytime you have to service a refrigerant circuit, you should add an acid removal filter dryer for clean up as a precaution. In bad burnout situations it is not optional and many also add a suction side filter which can be temporary or permanent. If the crud is bad enough the filters have to be changed as they get clogged and increase their pressure drop. The one I showed you is a bi-directional unit suitable for a heat pump. If you have cooling only then you only need a one way unit. Put the dryer in the smaller high side line after it leaves the condensing unit on the way to the evaporator or cooling unit as Cruisair calls it. I brazed flare filltings and short 1/4" copper lines on each end bending them to fit the unit so I can zip tie it in place. I attached directly to the high side service valve and the line connection for same. If you have access then you can also cut the high side line out in the open and braze the filter inline like you would normally do in residential AC.



One line is the output or high side line and is usually smaller in diameter. The other two lines are usually both suction, one for the normal input to the compressor and the other one is a service port. This service port can either have a fitting brazed on or crimped and brazed shut. I don't know if they are interchangeable on all compressors but on mine the service port was the highest on the can. You reference a couple of variants on the compressor (EXD vs EXV) that you bought but here is a drawing for the EXD that may help:

http://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/Draw...CHG-_H-C-C.pdf
Ah,very interesting...I get it now. And that PDF drawing seems to be spot on for the model I got. After I make a bracket for the feet I'll have to make damn sure no way no how can the nut ever come loose that holds the bracket to the compressor as it would be impossible to get a wrench in there to tighten it back once the whole deal is mounted back on the condenser assembly.
 
Ah,very interesting...I get it now. And that PDF drawing seems to be spot on for the model I got. After I make a bracket for the feet I'll have to make damn sure no way no how can the nut ever come loose that holds the bracket to the compressor as it would be impossible to get a wrench in there to tighten it back once the whole deal is mounted back on the condenser assembly.

Loctite or a nylon locknut.
 
Loctite or a nylon locknut.
Red Loctite or thin style nylon locknut.....yes, there is so little space in the bracket a normal thickness 3/8" locknut is too tall ! But being in the business I'm in I just happen to have some thin nylon 3/8 locknuts, so good to go. Already made a new mount plate on the CNC mill. Compressor mount is a 3/8" slot rather than a hole as I noticed the original compressor is not exactly centered on it's mounts so I wanted some lateral adjust possibilities just in case.

The corner holes are .780" diameter to receive the rubber feet that surround the mount bolts.

photo (2).webp
 
Red Loctite or thin style nylon locknut.....yes, there is so little space in the bracket a normal thickness 3/8" locknut is too tall ! But being in the business I'm in I just happen to have some thin nylon 3/8 locknuts, so good to go. Already made a new mount plate on the CNC mill. Compressor mount is a 3/8" slot rather than a hole as I noticed the original compressor is not exactly centered on it's mounts so I wanted some lateral adjust possibilities just in case.

The corner holes are .780" diameter to receive the rubber feet that surround the mount bolts.

View attachment 18400

Looks like you have the mounting process under control. Post pictures when you have this rebuild finished.
 
I have both rebuilt condensers back in and they are working perfectly, could not be happier. I have included some pictures of the bidirectional inline filter/dryers so you can see how I added them so that they can be replaced/removed easily.

rebuilt condensers.webpFilter dryer.webpfilter dryer 3.webp
 
Very interesting Reef...confirms what I suspected my guy needs to do, plus we need two 3/8 to 1/4 reducing sleeves I forgot to buy. Was going to do the deed today but an interesting auction popped up I need to attend. Maybe tomorrow.

Re removing/replacing the filter dryer on occassion...I presume compression fittings couldn't be trusted not to leak ? Also, when removing it, would there be R22 in the 1/4 line from air handler to filter dryer such that a shut off valve might be desirable on the air handler side as well ?
 
The extra flare fittings are more opportunities for leaks but there was no reasonable way to braze the filters inline given the routing. This way I can replace the filters if needed or just remove them all together and go back to the original plumbing after everything is cleaned up if the filters become a problem.
 
A shutoff valve would make filter removal somewhat easier and possibly prevent the need for another vacuum operation but I believe that the odds on favorite is that the first filter is the final step.
 
Finally finished it up today...it works !

New compressor so smooth and quiet, R22 pressures are excellent, cools great. Total cost- compressor, filter, labor, R22, shipping...everything.... $600 !

Only worrisome thing is the compressor does get hot eventually. I need to take a reading with my laser heat sensor (16 miles away at shop) so we will know just how hot...but to give an idea, can't hold my hand on the top for more than a fraction of a second. Surprising for brand new compressor that is working perfectly otherwise.

I wonder what would be a good way to test the seawater flow volume thru the in/out pipes without making a mess ? Maybe temporarily (with condenser off, but pump on) connecting a garden hose and nozzle to the "out" pipe to get general idea of flow and pressure and compare that with another of the other 4 Cruisairs ?

I changed out the Groco strainer for the condensers a few days ago and was shocked to find a freakin FISH in there ! And I don't mean Goldfish sized fish but 2" wide by 3" long fish...
 
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Try to get a thermocouple on the discharge line a few inches away from the compressor can on the output pipe. Then measure the suction line temp right after the service valve on the way to the compressor and get suction and high side pressures. Report back and we can see if everything is five by five.

The most important temp to prevent damage is the internal compressor temp which can be inferred from that first measurement.
 
Try to get a thermocouple on the discharge line a few inches away from the compressor can on the output pipe. Then measure the suction line temp right after the service valve on the way to the compressor and get suction and high side pressures. Report back and we can see if everything is five by five.

The most important temp to prevent damage is the internal compressor temp which can be inferred from that first measurement.
Ok, but won't be able to report on pressures for over a week from now as my guy is going on vacation as of tomorrow !
 
The discharge pipe temp is still useful by itself. Compressor manufacturers want to see a maximum internal compressor temp of around 300-350F and a discharge line temp of 225-275F implies that so you must be below that maximum to prevent overheat damage.
 
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