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Raw Water System Flush - Phosphoric Acid - My experience

  • Thread starter Thread starter Vincentc
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Vincentc

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Jun 3, 2008
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
A Phosphoric Acid solution worked well for me in flushing the raw water systems for the Detroits, generator and AC.
Engine operating temperature dropped roughly 30 degrees and sea water flow through the generator doubled.
I had concerns regarding acid concentration and checked the MSDS for Barnacle Buster, Ospho, and Klean Strip Metal Etch.
BB ready to use lists 10-30% phosphoric acid and the BB concentrate is 60-80% acid with instructions to dilute 5-1.
I concluded that a 15-20% concentration of phosphoric acid would be about right.

The boat supply store here had only a product called Phos-foe which looks a whole lot like Ospho.
They only had 4 gallons in stock so I went to Lowes and found the Klean Strip product and bought 2 more gallons to finish the jobs.
Both of these products cost $18-$23 per gallon which I understand is less than Barnacle Buster. Their MSDS indicate a phosphoric/orthophosphoric (different name, same product) concentration of 40-45%.
I diluted the products roughly 2.2 parts water to 1.

A bilge pump, with 5/8" hoses and a 5 gallon bucket allowed me to flush the Detroits and the AC in 2 directions.
Access problems due to the generator being installed next to bulkheads on 2 sides required me to simply feed the acid solution through the generator while the engine was running, stop the engine when the system was full and let it sit about 45 minutes.
I did not add any other product to the acid/water solution nor did I inspect the heat exchangers post acid flush.
The restoration of normal operating temperature and observed increase in water flow out the exhausts was enough for me.

I also replace impellers on the main engines and generator. The impellers were all in tact.
I learned that it is near impossible to put new impellers in the pumps while they are mounted on the engines, and not very challenging with the pumps in a vice.
Removal/replacement of the pumps was simple, so long has you have a spare mounting gasket on hand.
 
Hi Vincent, great to see you posting! Nice to know you are still out there with your 43DC too. Acid flush works magic - I've used undiluted 'Kelan-Strip Concrete Etch and Metal Prep' running 3-4 hours in past with great results. I used a Endoscope camera to check before and after and showed great results. One thing I found is you need to have the bucket with acid in it about 3' higher then highest point to get top of heat exchanger clean.

Regarding raw water pump impeller, I use a 18" long zip tie that is also wide to hold all the impellers in. I then smear it with KY Jelly and get on shaft. I lightly tap it in half way with mallet, then cut the zip tie and bang rest of way in (starting to sound like a porno!). Additionally, if you heat the impellers up with a heat gun, it goes soooo much easier as they become quite pliable, especially if doing in the winter time.
 
Thanks Scott for the kind words and the tip about KY jelly.
But what looks you get from the checkout girl whey you buy an extra large tube at the drugstore?
 
Barnacle Buster says to take out the zincs before flushing but will it damage the pump impellers? Did you flush thru the raw water pump or will the impeller stop flow? Asking about your experience with the DD's, my gen sets are easy enough to pull the core and clean in a bucket manually.
 
If there is any zinc left, you need to remove the zincs. Unless you change the zincs regularly, there will be no zincs to remove.I have spare zinc pugs with no zincs. You can soak the zinc plugs in phosphoric acid overnight so that you can clean out the zinc left inside the plug threads and reuse them with new zincs.

The raw water impeller will block the flow. You can either remove the impeller or bypass the pump, which is what I did.
3/8 NIP nipples fit into the openings for the zinc plugs and 5/8 ID hose will fit over the nipples and hose clamps will hold them in place.
It took me a few minutes to study the RW system plumbing, following it from the thru hull to the discharge into the exhaust and find the best location to bypass the RW pump.
 
Have you done the same to the air conditioners?
 

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