Raw water intake hose - debacle of the day

[drewread]

internal pipe wrench

I can only find these up to 2" pipe diameter, if anyone knows of larger - let me know. Definitely an interesting tool though!

 

[bigbill]

have you tried a little heat?

 

[drewread]

have you tried a little heat?

I'll take a torch with me next time I go, but I was trying to do it without heat so far.

 

[Briankinley2004]

I'll take a torch with me next time I go, but I was trying to do it without heat so far.

It works every time for me. I had to disassemble some old 1 1/2" fittings to re-pipe one of mine recently. Couldn't budge anything. A little heat to soften the 40 year old pipe dope and it came right apart

 

[dsharp]

A torch with map gas might get it hot enough. A small oxy-acetaline rig like hvac repairmen use would be the best set up if you can get your hands on one. As far as hose I’ve used heavy duty radiator hose made by Gates or make up an intake pipe out of hard copper. The hose with the wire in it is ok but, it doesn’t clamp down very well on the pipe fittings. 2” pipe uses 2 3/8” hose and 2 1/2” pipe is 2 7/8” hose. I’ve never tried heating up a hose to stretch it but I suppose it might work.

 

[Len R]

Are you trying to take the nipple out of the valve? A heat wrench should help. Be sure to hold back on the valve to prevent it from turning and creating a leak below. Another trick is to cut it with a Sawzall then make a relief cut down inside the nipple JUST TO THE THREADS NOT ALL THE WAY THROUGH. Then with a hammer and cold chisel break the nipple and walk it out. If you arent CONFIDENT with a Sawzall dont attempt. I have been in the plumbing industry for over 35 years.
Good luck...

 

[Captain Ralph]

Bbrrrrr
Blue-Tip wrench in a close bilge. Sends shivers down my back.
I was thinking drilling big holes in the nipple and with a rod/bar twisting it out.

You were rite about no 2.5" internal pipe tools. Seems they stop at 2" but I bet they are around in some specialty shop,, somewhere.
Just not in the high volume stores in the web.

 

[Len R]

Bbrrrrr
Blue-Tip wrench in a close bilge. Sends shivers down my back.
I was thinking drilling big holes in the nipple and with a rod/bar twisting it out.

You were rite about no 2.5" internal pipe tools. Seems they stop at 2" but I bet they are around in some specialty shop,, somewhere.
Just not in the high volume stores in the web.

I agree with the concern of using a Smoke wrench in small areas with combustible material everywhere and a minimal egress. Extreme caution and a good ABC fire extinguisher are NECESSARY. Confidence, not being cocky, in ones ability is needed. Pandoras Box should be left to others before bigger issues are created.

 

[Len R]

Bbrrrrr
Blue-Tip wrench in a close bilge. Sends shivers down my back.
I was thinking drilling big holes in the nipple and with a rod/bar twisting it out.

You were rite about no 2.5" internal pipe tools. Seems they stop at 2" but I bet they are around in some specialty shop,, somewhere.
Just not in the high volume stores in the web.

The drilling a hole idea holds alot of merit. Especially on a 2 1/2" nipple. It can be angled enough to avoid interference and still allowing good power.

 

[drewread]

Bbrrrrr
Blue-Tip wrench in a close bilge. Sends shivers down my back.
I was thinking drilling big holes in the nipple and with a rod/bar twisting it out.

I agree with the concern of using a Smoke wrench in small areas with combustible material everywhere and a minimal egress.

Worry not, I have no plans to drag an OA torch into my ER any time soon.

I don't feel that drilling holes and using a bar will gain me any more leverage than the pipe wrench I can get in there already, but I'll keep it in my pocket just in case.

I'm going to try my chain-fall idea, the only reason I can't get this joint undone is because I can't position myself, or a large enough wrench, in the area to gain the leverage to really turn this fitting, the CF will apply the mechanical force that I or a larger pipe-wrench cannot. I feel that a little mechanical help is all I need.

I will likely just give the CF a half turn or two to generate a bit of force, then apply some MAP gas to the pipe nipple to loosen up any thread dope that may be in there, although there isn't evidence of any in this joint. There is no paint on this fitting, so I'm not worried about it spreading a fire if used sparingly. I have an extinguisher close by any time I have a soldering torch of any sort out. Hopefully this is all that is needed to break this joint loose.

I'll also somehow jam a second pipe wrench into place on the sea-cock and brace it against movement to counter any pulling force generated by the CF and pipe wrench on the nipple.
Worse comes to worse, I'll have to remove the entire sea-cock assembly in order to break these apart, then reinstall it once I get the nipple off. I'm hoping to avoid having to do that, but it may be a necessary evil.

Thanks to all that posted or reached out otherwise, I feel like this may actually be an achievable project now.

I'll report back with results, good or bad.

Edit: I will add that the added experience of all this forums members is just what I needed to see this from a few different angles and that I really appreciate it all!

 

[drburke]

Heat helps a lot, so I second that but maybe use an electric heat gun.
Is that upper nut part of the pipe? If so, consider a hammer wrench since impact also helps. But back the lower part as you are describing...

 

[JD5652]

Also try some heat and a few good wraps with a hammer to break the corrosion.

 

[rsmith]

When we bought ours the 3” suction hose had multiple rolls of electrical tape on the fitting that goes on the raw water pump. I had 3” bronze hose barbs brazed to the fitting. I don’t know how it left the factory like this.

 

[drewread]

We'll, I'm taking this as a victory today with the hopes that this particular boat debacle is over.

RED wrench jammed into place on the Seacock.
Grey wrench linked to the 1/4 to chainfall which was attached to the motor mount.
It took some heat and an entire revolution of turns with the chain fall to get this moving.

But it is off!

With the added bonus that the 2-1/2" barb I had from a other part of this crazy rig works right where it should have been all along.

 

[Captain Ralph]

F M

 

[drewread]

I should have added a big thanks to all that helped with ideas. I couldn't have figured this out without help from the hive mind.
Thanks all!

 

[Captain Ralph]

Re; Post #17
Got some pics to share from our boat.
You can see the sharp bend of hose replaces by the new fiberglass tubing and new 90° turn.
Either end of the glass tubing can be adjusted for different hose sizes.

 

[jmooney]

I replaced our seacocks with new . When I broke that pipe joint that you’re working on , I had to take it with the old valve to a machine shop . They strapped the pipe to a chain vise , and then they appeared with the biggest pipe wrench that I have ever seen, at least 4 feet long , with the handle somehow bent at 30 degrees. It took a cheater on the handle. But we were successful. It would be better if you can get the valve out of the boat , but that won’t be easy. Sam’s has the thru-hull that screws into the valve . Mine was flush with the hull which surprised me . Good luck.

 

[drewread]

Wh

I replaced our seacocks with new . When I broke that pipe joint that you’re working on , I had to take it with the old valve to a machine shop . They strapped the pipe to a chain vise , and then they appeared with the biggest pipe wrench that I have ever seen, at least 4 feet long , with the handle somehow bent at 30 degrees. It took a cheater on the handle. But we were successful. It would be better if you can get the valve out of the boat , but that won’t be easy. Sam’s has the thru-hull that screws into the valve . Mine was flush with the hull which surprised me . Good luck.

Why on earth would I replace a perfectly good Seacock?

 

[jmooney]

When there’s a will , there is a way !