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Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Westfield 11

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Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

I’m assembling the parts to clean my HE’s and I was wondering how much raw water is spilled when opening the system or if there is a process to drain the seawater first. Where are you opening it up and can I get a bucket under there to catch it?
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

I’m assembling the parts to clean my HE’s and I was wondering how much raw water is spilled when opening the system or if there is a process to drain the seawater first. Where are you opening it up and can I get a bucket under there to catch it?
Different spots on either end. Different amounts of raw water escapes. Usually not enough to be a problem.

I've entered the loop at the raw water pump; maybe a quart came out. I've also entered (and from now on) at a gear cooler line with about the same spillage. Here's my connection there now (no spill). I also use this to freshwater flush the motors after running. Less saltwater should equal less build-up (Freeze caution if you live up north).

IMG_7630.webp

At the other end, you can hopefully flex your raw water exhaust hose some and get what's in there to drain out the through the shower head. There won't be much. Here's my connection there. This also makes reversing the flow easy during a descaling.

IMG_9485.webp
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

A few more questions: the two hoses shown at the gearbox are there to acid flush and to freshwater flush? I’ll only need one?

Also do you have two buckets to be able to replace all the seawater with cleaning vinegar or do you just catch the evacuated seawater in the vinegar bucket and allow it to dilute it? Any idea how much vinegar for a 12-71TI, I have three gallons on hand?

Finally, when doing both engines, can I reuse the acid solution on the second engine, or start anew with fresh vinegar?
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Sorry to hijack,

Robert, any chance you have a different pic of the connection at the raw pump? Having that setup sure would make life easier....

attachment.php
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

A few more questions: the two hoses shown at the gearbox are there to acid flush and to freshwater flush? I’ll only need one? Also do you have two buckets to be able to replace all the seawater with cleaning vinegar or do you just catch the evacuated seawater in the vinegar bucket and allow it to dilute it? Any idea how much vinegar for a 12-71TI, I have three gallons on hand?Finally, when doing both engines, can I reuse the acid solution on the second engine, or start anew with fresh vinegar?
One bucket is all you need. New solution for new motor. Not sure I understand hose question. One hose to enter the loop from the bucket and one hose to exit the loop into the bucket. Do you have dripless seals?
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Sorry to hijack,

Robert, any chance you have a different pic of the connection at the raw pump? Having that setup sure would make life easier....

attachment.php
See if these help.

IMG_0188.webpIMG_0189.webpIMG_0190.webp
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

A few more questions: the two hoses shown at the gearbox are there to acid flush and to freshwater flush? I’ll only need one?

Also do you have two buckets to be able to replace all the seawater with cleaning vinegar or do you just catch the evacuated seawater in the vinegar bucket and allow it to dilute it? Any idea how much vinegar for a 12-71TI, I have three gallons on hand?

Finally, when doing both engines, can I reuse the acid solution on the second engine, or start anew with fresh vinegar?
Sorry, I forgot your question about how much vinegar. Three gallons ought to do one motor. Remember, white vinegar is probably the mildest acid that you can use. As a result, it's going to take a long time. You could easily recirculate a while and and let it stand for hours. Overnight isn't out of the question. Also, you need to remove all engine zincs or the vinegar will dissolve them and maybe little else. My advice is phosphoric acid rather than vinegar. The job will be over in 60-90 minutes. Probably a gallon or a gallon and a half per motor would be about right.
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

So with the phosphoric I won’t need to pull the zincs?

About the second bucket: I just wondered if you let the acid force out most of the seawater into a second bucket before dropping the return hose into the supply bucket to minimize dilution of the mix.

I think I’ll hold onto my vinegar for other cleaning and flushing purposes and use the ospho instead. Thanks for the pictures, I am a better visual learner than print!
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

So with the phosphoric I won’t need to pull the zincs?About the second bucket: I just wondered if you let the acid force out most of the seawater into a second bucket before dropping the return hose into the supply bucket to minimize dilution of the mix.I think I’ll hold onto my vinegar for other cleaning and flushing purposes and use the ospho instead. Thanks for the pictures, I am a better visual learner than print!
You're welcome. Zincs always come out. Dilution won’t be an issue. Better to always be on the light side.
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Robert, can I remove the zinc on the inlet of the raw water pump and use a fitting there to extract the phosphoric? I have 2 3/8” hose coming off the HE that I can remove and cobble up fittings to get the acid into the system, but will it flow out through the pump with the impeller in place? My hoses are pretty stiff and I don’t want to damage the shorter ones during removal, like the ones to the exhaust.

Also I see the raw water looks like it flows through the intercoolers on its way to the front of the engine and the HE, is it better to isolate them or include them in the loop?
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Robert, can I remove the zinc on the inlet of the raw water pump and use a fitting there to extract the phosphoric? I have 2 3/8” hose coming off the HE that I can remove and cobble up fittings to get the acid into the system, but will it flow out through the pump with the impeller in place? My hoses are pretty stiff and I don’t want to damage the shorter ones during removal, like the ones to the exhaust.

Also I see the raw water looks like it flows through the intercoolers on its way to the front of the engine and the HE, is it better to isolate them or include them in the loop?
Best to get all components at one time as they all suffer from calcified build-up.

Personally, I think you've got it backwards. Do you want to run debris into the pump? Run in through pump route for the initial cleaning. When you reverse the flow there'll be less stuff coming out that end. The impeller, will have to come out to get flow. Be sure and close seacock or you'll pump your solution overboard. At the end, maybe pump solution through the seacock.

You need to figure out how to raise all hoses at least to the top of the HE. This will make sure the entire HE gets wet.
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Just a heads up to thank you for the help. I did the stb engine today with no trouble, I used the 5/8” water line from just past the pump that cools the stabilizers to introduce the cleaner and took it out at the HE outlet using a rubber adapter that clamps onto the outlet flange. Thanks to whoever made that suggestion in another thread.

Tomorrow I’ll move to the port side and will pull a hose from the exhaust instead. I also need to change the oil pressure sender and the water temperature sender to finally recover from my blown block heater.
 
Re: Question about Genesis’s Heat Exchanger cleaning

Just a heads up to thank you for the help. I did the stb engine today with no trouble, I used the 5/8” water line from just past the pump that cools the stabilizers to introduce the cleaner and took it out at the HE outlet using a rubber adapter that clamps onto the outlet flange. Thanks to whoever made that suggestion in another thread.

Tomorrow I’ll move to the port side and will pull a hose from the exhaust instead. I also need to change the oil pressure sender and the water temperature sender to finally recover from my blown block heater.
Happy to help. Glad it's working out for you.
 

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